Atc 250r - clutch ruined by using synthetic oil ?

[sunnyday]

I just bought 1984 - Atc 250r - starts up and runs great , but the clutch would not engage when the lever was pulled...There was plenty movement of the clutch lever and the clutch hinge at the motor section.

I drained the motor oil and sure enough, it was synthetic . If I put regular motor oil in it, will the friction plates work again or do I need to buy new clutch plates ? Ty

[sunnyday]

I just bought 1984 - Atc 250r - starts up and runs great , but the clutch would not engage when the lever was pulled...There was plenty movement of the clutch lever and the clutch hinge at the motor section.

I drained the motor oil and sure enough, it was synthetic . If I put regular motor oil in it, will the friction plates work again or do I need to buy new clutch plates ? Ty


anyone ? .......

[Shep1970]

Synthetic oil for automobiles i would stay way away from, but it sounds like it wasnt you. its not for wet clutches too many slippery ingredients unless its a motorcycle specific blend.
My guess yes after 2 or 3 oil changes with any cheap dino mc oil your clutch should be fine.
Just grab some valvoline atv oil from walmart- even after the clutch feels better change it again-
IF THATS YOUR ISSUE
and i think u meant to say dis-engage when lever pulled in.
shep

[sunnyday]

Synthetic oil for automobiles i would stay way away from, but it sounds like it wasnt you. its not for wet clutches too many slippery ingredients unless its a motorcycle specific blend.
My guess yes after 2 or 3 oil changes with any cheap dino mc oil your clutch should be fine.
Just grab some valvoline atv oil from walmart- even after the clutch feels better change it again-
IF THATS YOUR ISSUE
and i think u meant to say dis-engage when lever pulled in.
shep

ty....

im hoping it was the synthetic oil that wont allow the clutch to work properly...

I was wondering if it would be better, to take the clutch plates out...wash them in gasoline real good.. . and saok them in non synth 10-40 motor oil for a couple days...then reinstall and see it the clutch works.

[ATC200X4716]

My 83 250R has had a clutch issue for 30 years and it isn't synthetic oil. When I start my bike up after sitting for a few weeks I pull in the clutch lever as normal and kick it into gear it lurches forward and dies, or if I rev the engine while putting it in gear, it frees up the cluctch with a lurch and its fine for the full ride.

[AA19]

I have been running synthetic oil in motorcycles, ATV’s and 3 wheelers with wet clutches for more than 2 decades without issue. In fact some of the street bikes had lower engine temps. You just need to make sure the oil you run is made for a wet clutch application. We run into the same situation at work - I am in industrial maintenance. We have a few gear reducers with backstops. Depending how the backstop is built, we cannot use an oil with an EP (Extreme Pressure) additive. The EP additives are a lot like friction modifiers and really do reduce friction/increase protection. Because of that, they can cause a backstop or clutch to fail. We still run synthetic oil in those applications, just without the EP additives. The synthetics have proven to reduce temps and extend equipment life in industry as well.

[greenhaze20]

Royal purple 10w-40 max cycle. Specifically formatted for wet clutches and is synthetic. Never had a problem with it.


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[BOB MARLIN]

Check to make sure the clutch cable is good. I've had a few that were coming apart or just rusty inside the sheath and stopping the cable from returning all the way causing the clutch not to engage right.

[Scorcher]

Like said above.. Start with the cable, which sounds like you have and if you're going to take it apart check the clutch basket for wear/grooves. Sometimes the plates/friction plates hang up in a worn basket and or the springs can weaken over time along with a worn clutch. Have seen the pivot rod hang up as well, but good strong springs may not allow the hanging up.
I'm new here and just rambling..