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View Full Version : I just stole a Scrambler 400



Muddy200x
04-25-2005, 06:32 PM
I didn't really steal it, but for the price I got it for it kinda feels like I did. It's a 99" and I paid $1200 for it. "Everything works" all it needed was a new battery. I cant wait to get it out on the trails. Just got the title work done today but I stll have to get my tag.

thefox
04-25-2005, 06:39 PM
Dang, $1200 you did steal it! It's hearing about deals like that that keep me looking.

Wickedfinger
04-25-2005, 09:20 PM
That is a steal. Welcome to my world. Talk to me when you're ready to Mod her up.

Lomax
04-25-2005, 10:17 PM
I just traded my Scrambler (which I never put back together) for 11 trikes and 1 quad. All but one are parts machines but I think that I can build one or more from the lot of junkers

84250r
04-25-2005, 11:28 PM
Nice score Muddy!

Muddy200x
04-26-2005, 10:59 AM
Thanks guys, :D the wife is already calling it ours, :eek: Yeah right! I guess I'm just gonna have to make it "scary fast" so she wont want to ride it. :twisted: :twisted:

Wickedfinger,
Thanks for all the scrambler info you've posted here in the past. Sure makes things easy with the search. Your definitly the guy I want to talk to about speeding this thing up.
That said, I have a friend that rides a 400ex, although I haven't raced him yet I told him I'm gonna hand him his ass in a drag race :) Hehe, he just :rolleyes: rolled his eyes at me. Well, now that I opened my mouth I'm gonna have to deliver. So, I guess I got a little work cut out for me. I know it has an fmf pipe but that's about all I know. I don't think it has had any clutch adjustment or anything. It seems to go like a bat out of hell then tapers off pretty quickly. Seems like it could use a little less low end and a little more top end. I'm going to replace the pipe that's on it (just because it's ugly and rusted) and pick up a cutch kit. My 200x is just gonna have to take the back seat and watch this one. :D So??? How best to spend my money? :wondering I'm not ready to spend a thousand bucks right now, but eventualy, over time, definitly.

Dan Tenn
04-26-2005, 02:22 PM
Just like any other engine, start with the basics. Increase the air flow, and you can increase gas = more power. I'd get a good pipe(top end), either get a new carb, or modify the stock one, K&N filter, new reeds, and clutch kit. There are several manufacturers that specify in polaris parts. I like hotseat performance, but have not tried others. Wicked finger can give you recommendations on other manufacturers. Once the mentioned mods are done, things start to get spendy. Good luck, I love my polaris.

toyota200x
04-26-2005, 11:21 PM
Get her looking like wickedfinger's and it will be awesome. Sorry.

Wickedfinger
04-27-2005, 12:06 AM
I use everbody out there for Polaris - However, I am a big fan of AAEN performances stuff. They are world renown for their Snowmobile stuff and were the first manufacturer to offer specialty high performance parts for the Polaris quads. That being said - the first rule of thumb in getting performance out of any Polaris is to adjust the stock clutching. Unlike regular trannied ATV's, just adding a pipe will only make the engine rev quicker and give it more horsepower to the motors output shaft - It will not transmit into usable power, unless you modify the clutching to take advantage of it. The 378cc Fuji/Subaru/Wisconsen-Robin 2-stroke motor found in Polarises are all based off of Hondas 250R/FL400R motor (which is a good thing). They are so close, they actually take the same reeds. Polaris performance is also measured in Stages. I - IV. I - generally being regarded as being any state of tune up to porting the motor - IV - being full 470, 85+hp Powermaxx kits. Now for what I would recommend to you. The very first thing I would get is Hot Seats "Hypershift" clutch kit, #CK400-ATVP for the Scrambler 400L, Piped. This will include a dual angle helix, weights and heavier springs for the primary and secondary clutches. Sounds difficult to install, but it can be done very easily with std. hand tools and a torque wrench (very critical). After you install that, I would ditch that FMF lowend pipe (junk) and get AAENS amazing 10hp topend pipe. The hot setup is to keep the terrific FMF turbine core II silencer that comes with the FMF pipe and use that instead of the dumpy looking round "can" silencer the AAENS come with now. AAEN used to use Answer S/A's, but they went out of business. The next thing to get would be a Boyesen RAD valve reedcage or a V-Force 2 or 3 - I'm partial to Boyesen - but they are said to both give the motor nearly 4 - 5 more horsepower. After that, a Micky 38mm TMX Flatslider carb is the next mod and you will see great power delivery results from that and another 5 hp gain. I'm not a huge fan of un-corking airboxes since I ride in alot of mud, but you can open up the airbox a little by removing the stock snorkle - but - you MUST REJET. An aftermarket filter will help it breathe better too. Now, it is true that I have said before that in modding a Polaris, one upgrade leads directly into another and that you probably should do them all at the same time - but - I know funds never allow this, so stages are ok - except with the pipe and clutching. They absolutely need to be done in tandem. Now, stock for stock, the 400EX will probably win off the line unless you are in 4x4 and it will definitely take you on the top end since it has a nearly 10mph higher top speed than the stock Scramblers at @ 60mph. With just a pipe and clutching you will destroy a 400EX (and beat pretty much anything stock) off the line, win any 300ft, 1/8th or probably 1/4 mile drag by quad lengths and keep it there until he catches you around 65 mph - but that would be quite a way down the line, longer than any regulation drag race. Add a radvalve and the carb and it gets even better. Add porting and probably no regular fueled, even heavily modded thumper will beat you, at least in 300ft. Heres some websites: http://www.hotseatperformance.com/
http://www.aaenperformance.com/ATV_Home.asp
http://www.hotseatperformance.com/
http://rittercycle.com/polaris.htm

BigGreenMachine
04-27-2005, 12:17 AM
IV 85+ HP? lol why thats 30 more then a CR500...f*** me thats nuts. Could and would a 4wd Scrambler's front CV joints and shafts hold up to that?

Wickedfinger
04-27-2005, 12:21 AM
IV 85+ HP? lol why thats 30 more then a CR500...f*** me thats nuts. Could and would a 4wd Scrambler's front CV joints and shafts hold up to that?
Those full race 470 Powermaxx motors light so fast that they hit 80hp + in less than 2 seconds.

Muddy200x
04-27-2005, 05:40 PM
I opened up the air box and took out the air cleaner. It appears to be a K&N(looks like k&n but not 100% sure). I also noticed that it seems to be missing the snorkel parts. Since I also ride in a lot of mud so I'm going to start looking for a replacement snorkel. Another thing I would like to do is raise the rear end a little so it sits more level. How would I go about doing that? Also, I couldn't find anything about hub fluids in my manual. The manual I have only goes up to 1995. I realize there have been design changes between 95' and 99' but the manual was free. I'm going to get a newer manual ASAP.
BTW thanks for the help.

smokinwrench
04-27-2005, 06:17 PM
[QUOTE=Muddy200x] Also, I couldn't find anything about hub fluids in my manual. QUOTE]

Nice looking scrambler, I think my 500 is great.

I just serviced my front wheel hubs last week and I'm sure they would be the same. They take atf type F fluid. Need to be checked with the hole on the side of the hub at the 4 or 8 oclock position. They hold very little fluid.

Wickedfinger
04-28-2005, 02:21 PM
[QUOTE=Muddy200x] Also, I couldn't find anything about hub fluids in my manual. QUOTE]

Nice looking scrambler, I think my 500 is great.

I just serviced my front wheel hubs last week and I'm sure they would be the same. They take atf type F fluid. Need to be checked with the hole on the side of the hub at the 4 or 8 oclock position. They hold very little fluid.You should also change the fluid every 6 months or sooner - this will keep the system working at its peak. As far as the shock goes, the only thing you can do is adjust the preload so you can eliminate some of the sag. The '99 has the concentric drive system, but is not the newer "10.5" Long travel shock. If your shock is sluggish, I have a good '99 Fox Shock if you are interested in it.
It appears to be a K&N(looks like k&n but not 100% sure). The stock Polaris filter is a paper and foam element, like a K&N. If its Blue with a green prefilter, is a Polaris. If its Black, its a K&N.

250RNUT
04-28-2005, 04:11 PM
80 horse out of a scrambler 400. c'mon :confused: :wondering

Muddy200x
04-28-2005, 05:13 PM
The '99 has the concentric drive system, but is not the newer "10.5" Long travel shock. If your shock is sluggish, I have a good '99 Fox Shock if you are interested in it.
The shock thats on it seems pretty good and dosn't really have any sag. Strange that It would sit that low from the factory. I guess thats why they changed it for 2000. Couldn't I put the 10.5" on the '99?


The stock Polaris filter is a paper and foam element, like a K&N. If its Blue with a green prefilter, is a Polaris. If its Black, its a K&N.
Here's a pic of the filter that's on it. It looks like its a k&n but when I checked the k&n web site it says that there is no inner wire. The one that I have has an inner wire. ??? I wish I was more familiar with this type of filter but I've always used UNI.
http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=PL-1002

toyota200x
04-28-2005, 05:41 PM
Can we some more pics of yours wickedfinger and yours muddy200x?

Kook
05-02-2005, 11:15 AM
That fox shock will fit on my '98, won't it wicked? If so, what would you want for it?

Kook

Wickedfinger
05-02-2005, 01:52 PM
Is it a concentric drive?.
Couldn't I put the 10.5" on the '99? No, the shock locations are different and since theres no linkage to take up the adjustment, it won't fit. It would be nice because the 10.5" is a dual rate spring - but - it won't fit without modifications. Heres a pic or two of mine. Some of them are from before I mounted the AAEN pipe.

Kook
05-02-2005, 03:05 PM
Is it a concentric drive?.

If that's meant for me, yes. The one I've got is spongy as hell. I've adjusted it more than half-way up and it still sits like it's riding up hill.

Wickedfinger
05-02-2005, 05:40 PM
80 horse out of a scrambler 400. c'mon :confused: :wondering
See for yourself .....
http://www.hpd-inc.com/Spec5.htm
http://www.aaenperformance.com/2S_P1.asp
http://www.aaenperformance.com/2S_P2.asp
http://www.aaenperformance.com/Power400.asp (chart dosent show the 470 kit though, just the 440)

Wickedfinger
05-02-2005, 05:40 PM
Is it a concentric drive?.

If that's meant for me, yes. The one I've got is spongy as hell. I've adjusted it more than half-way up and it still sits like it's riding up hill.
PM me about the shock ...........

Kook
05-05-2005, 12:07 PM
PM on its' way!

Ordo
05-08-2005, 09:49 PM
Great deal you got there. My friend has the exact quad. But be careful if you go thruogh Hot Seat Performance. My friend spent $1600.00+ on a kit. He had nothing but problems from them. The race porting was nothing but an atemp to fluff and buff. Not to mention they sent the new pipe not chrome plated. They sent a new one 3 weeks later but the finish was very poor. Just a word of advice " BE Careful."

Muddy200x
05-09-2005, 07:00 PM
Great deal you got there. My friend has the exact quad. But be careful if you go thruogh Hot Seat Performance. My friend spent $1600.00+ on a kit. He had nothing but problems from them. The race porting was nothing but an atemp to fluff and buff. Not to mention they sent the new pipe not chrome plated. They sent a new one 3 weeks later but the finish was very poor. Just a word of advice " BE Careful."

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. But the first thing I have to do is keep it from overheating. every time I take it out it over heats. "???" I've checked everything and still cant figure it out. It pumps good, the radiator appears to be clean, fan works, blead all the air out of the system and it still over heats. As soon as it's started it starts pissing coolant out of the overflow cap from the pressure building up. I'm guessing that the radiator is clogged up somewhere inside. I think the guy who owned it before me had well water and maybe there is calcium built up and the coolant is flowing directly across the top of the radiator. I'm starting to get frustrated. :naughty: I'm running out of things to check.

mbg75
05-10-2005, 12:11 AM
nice buy!
here is a few pics of my 70hp 4x4 scrammy.

Wickedfinger
05-10-2005, 12:18 AM
Again, I have to ask ... how the hell do you plow with that full race pipe?.

mbg75
05-10-2005, 12:40 AM
wicked,

it plows like a bat out of hades!

just kidding, actually it works well. the clutching helps so that the belt doesn't slip. it does not even move till about 3200 rpm, so there is no lugging on the motor. also, because of the extra weight of the 4 wheel drive, alot of the hp is wasted. the shafts are always turning.

still surprises plenty of people out of the hole.

we should hook up to ride, i ride in pa often. usually off I-81

last time i went, i had it buried in a muhole past the tires. after an hour of digging i got pulled out by a grizzly.

Ordo
05-10-2005, 02:01 AM
If it's boiling over as soon as you start it, run a pressure check on the coolant system. If the pressure drops and you don't see any leaks. Your head gasket is most likely leaking. If it stays steady, back flush the radiators. Hope this helps.

Muddy200x
05-10-2005, 05:07 AM
If it's boiling over as soon as you start it, run a pressure check on the coolant system. If the pressure drops and you don't see any leaks. Your head gasket is most likely leaking. If it stays steady, back flush the radiators. Hope this helps.


I bet your right about the head gasket. That would explain the unusually fast buildup of pressure. I noticed yesterday that one of the head bolts was a little wet. So, the head gasket is definitely on the "to do" list. Thanks!

Muddy200x
05-10-2005, 11:16 PM
If it's boiling over as soon as you start it, run a pressure check on the coolant system. If the pressure drops and you don't see any leaks. Your head gasket is most likely leaking. If it stays steady, back flush the radiators. Hope this helps.

Yep, it was the head gasket. :D In fact the head gasket was flawed in two places. One was on top of the gasket causing the wetness on the head bolt. The other was on the bottom of the gasket causing pressure buildup in the coolant system. The best part was that it was a simple job. I'm so relieved and thanks for the point in the right direction. Running great now!
:beer

mbg75...Nice ride. You and wicked sure got me thinking about going BIG. Where did you find the plow for your scrammy? sure would make things easy on me in the winter. I'm going in the morning to get surgery for a hernia that I blame partly on shoveling snow. I'm calling it my speed bump on the way to trikefest :o