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yamahaman89
11-09-2005, 12:31 AM
My truck brakes would stick. Now they go all the way to the floor with out working. i checked the vacum and its fine, the rotars and pads are good.
I cant get the bleeders off to see if its that. whats the best way to get the bleeders off. Right now they are al striped out and the vice grips wont grab them. what should i do? Is my booster shot?

1984kxtTECATE
11-09-2005, 01:14 AM
My truck brakes would stick. Now they go all the way to the floor with out working. i checked the vacum and its fine, the rotars and pads are good.
I cant get the bleeders off to see if its that. whats the best way to get the bleeders off. Right now they are al striped out and the vice grips wont grab them. what should i do? Is my booster shot?

If your bleeders are stripped its time for new calipers, I myself would change the fluid in it for starters, take off the brake line and start pumping the pedal. Refill it with all new fluid, but you will need to bleed it so your going to need new calpers regardless unless you can drill and tap the bleeder hole. Now if that brake fluid hasnt been changed in a year or so, it will break down and turn into an acidic fluid that will eat away at any rubber in the system, that goes the same with using incorrect DOT fluid reccomended by the manufacture. If that dosnt cut it, defiantly check your booster out. Chances are this wont be a cheap fix. Best of luck too you.

PowerTrike
11-09-2005, 01:28 AM
If your bleeders are stripped its time for new calipers, I myself would change the fluid in it for starters, take off the brake line and start pumping the pedal. Refill it with all new fluid, but you will need to bleed it so your going to need new calpers regardless unless you can drill and tap the bleeder hole. Now if that brake fluid hasnt been changed in a year or so, it will break down and turn into an acidic fluid that will eat away at any rubber in the system, that goes the same with using incorrect DOT fluid reccomended by the manufacture. If that dosnt cut it, defiantly check your booster out. Chances are this wont be a cheap fix. Best of luck too you.

If your bleeders are stripped try soaking them every day for a while in penetrating oil and getting some kind of solid grip on them with a Vise-Grips...they should come out or snap off. If they snap off try to get the rest out with an easy out or by other means. If this fails then you might need your calipers rebuilt or get new ones. Also check your wheel cylinders if you have rear drum brakes (Im pretty sure you do...) A small leak will cause pressure to be lost and your pedal will become "spongy" ang go all the way to the floor or take a lot of pumping to stop. Otherwise yes, I'd check the booster and recheck all brakelines, ect. to check for leaks. Hope this helps, good luck. Brakes can be a PITA

1984kxtTECATE
11-09-2005, 01:51 AM
If your bleeders are stripped try soaking them every day for a while in penetrating oil and getting some kind of solid grip on them with a Vise-Grips

Not tryin to be a asshole, but if you strip the threads on a bleeder how will lubing them get it out. If there are no threads to catch on the caliper I dont see how lubing it would help at all:wondering

wanta250r
11-09-2005, 04:26 AM
Not tryin to be a asshole, but if you strip the threads on a bleeder how will lubing them get it out. If there are no threads to catch on the caliper I dont see how lubing it would help at all:wondering


I don't know much about bleeders, but they said they are putting vise grips onto something that is stripped, if you lube them they may loosen it up a bit, then even though its stripped it may still come out with vise-grips. Unless I'm not understanding this right.

yamahaman89
11-09-2005, 08:47 AM
thanks alot guys. ill give her a shot today

ATC crazy
11-09-2005, 09:10 PM
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/index.php

Ranger Forum: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=35

Brake Forum: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=64

3 weelin geezer
11-10-2005, 07:12 PM
Not tryin to be a asshole, but if you strip the threads on a bleeder how will lubing them get it out. If there are no threads to catch on the caliper I dont see how lubing it would help at all:wondering


I think he means that the part you grab with the wrench is all rounded off so you have to use vise grips.

I find getting something really hot does the trick when it gets stuck. Now this is good if it is only metal such as exhaust manifolds. I'm talking hot enough to make it glow and turn the rust into that black hard stuff that chips easily. Otherwise try wd 40 for a while. It will come out soon enough unless that is your only truck and you are stuck without it anyways. Then take one with you to the parts store to compare and get a new pair. Just be careful you don't break off the threaded part off in a desperate effort to make things go faster. Remember that this thing gets hot then cold then hot many times and not to mention all that water that splashes on it and makes it rust. While you are at the parts store you might try getting some anti seize for the threads and put a LITTLE on the new bleeder screw.

ATC crazy
11-10-2005, 07:19 PM
Take a grinder to the nipple so it looks like:

___
(___)

and then you can get vice grips or a cresent wrench on it.

Jason Hall
11-11-2005, 11:28 AM
What brakes where sticking, If the rears where sticking then your wheel cylinders were probly leaking. When the drums gets brake fluid in them, the brakes will all the suddon grab real hard. The reason is the fluid works as a lubricant & won't let the brakes grab easy, the friction surface gets slippery, then as the heat builds they lock right up. The way I get bleaders, & stubborn brake lines loose is with heat. Be carful, because brake fluid is flamable. Get yourself a propane torch & turn it down low, heat the bleeder. Don't go crazy with the heat, as soon as you take the heat off, then try to turn it out. If there is brake fluid in the drums, the wheel cylinders are junk & should be replaced. You first have to find out where the fluid leaked out. My guess is the wheel cylinders leaked out all your fluid, now the entire brake system is full of air. Once you find the leak, then you can bleed the air out. Once you get the bleeders broke loose. I have also cracked the brake line loose to bleed out air.

edog
11-11-2005, 05:02 PM
I know how to fix it........buy a Chevy.lol:w00t: :lol: :lol:

Unclediezel
11-17-2005, 01:11 AM
Stupid-but I do it every day- Heat it up till it glows- while its still glowing -Pour a glass of water over it--you will hear the rust crackling and it will turn right out (Keep your hands back and wear gloves- hot brake fluid aint fun)

monster 84r
11-17-2005, 02:02 AM
I know how to fix it........buy a Chevy.lol:w00t: :lol: :lol:

haha

yeah, then the ford would look better, and he would realize how great the ranger is compared to chevy stuff. :welcome:

i admit though, the newer chevy's are nice...

yamahaman89
11-17-2005, 09:11 AM
well found the two problems: first is the back right wheel cylinder is shot leaking all over. So i took off the brake line and put a bolt through it.the other is my master cylinder was leaking at the bottom where it hooked up to the booster. So i made two card board gaskets and put r2 on it and let it sit over night. So we will see today how she is. hope for the best

cliff2302
11-17-2005, 10:52 AM
hold on, there are alot of wrong ideas in a row about using heat to get things broken free. First of all, when you use heat, you want to heat the female side of whatever is stuck together. Heat makes metal expand. If you heated the actual bleeder, you would make the connection between the two tighter. Next, if you did heat it up and then throw water on it, you would be doing nothing at all. The only reason the rust comes off is cause when your heating it with the torch, the crap wil blow off. Also, repeated heating and cooling could make the metal brittle, i believe.

Now, from your description of what you did to fix your truck, im under the impression that you completely bipassed the right rear brake? If thats what you did, your going to be in for some not so fun times when it starts snowing. You'll be spun around before you'll know what happens.

Jason Hall
11-17-2005, 09:42 PM
If you have brake fluid leaking out of the back of the master cylinder then it is junk. Puting gaskets inbetween the master & booster will only make the brake fluid leak into the vacume booster. Then before you know it you will need to buy a booster. Put 2-new wheel cylinders on the rear & a new master cylinder on it, then bleed the air out & you will be done with it. Another thing about the heat, I should have read what I wrote before I posted it. The only time you want to turn the fitting, while it is hot is if you can't get the nut to swivel on the brake line. On the bleeders, you are better off waiting for it to cool some. I do realize you should heat the female part but when you heat the bleeder, it will expand compressing the rust against the threads. Then when it cools down, (hopefully) it will contract & come loose. I have also found that if you get any bolt to move a little bit, keep turning it in & out while spraying penetrating oil on it. If you just keep reefing on it one way, it is almost sure to break.

yamahaman89
11-18-2005, 09:05 PM
yea,never thought of that and the gasket held up for awhile but now it leaking,maybe ill do it the right way and buy a new brake clyinder.

hrc85250r
11-18-2005, 10:05 PM
the best way to get a frozen bolt or plug out is to use this method, whether it is plugs in an engine block or a swingarm bole or anything....heat up the bolt or plug or whatever, trying not to heat up the block or whatever it may be in, get the bolt red hot glowing, then ram a bunch of paraffin wax into it until it doesnt soak anymore in, paraffin wax is pretty much any candle if you didnt know that,lol.... i swear to god that this trick will work, just grab on to the bleeder really hard with some GOOD vice grips...im 99% sure this should work for you, make sure you dont set your truck on fire and take it off the truck and drain it out first.....just makin sure, lol....

yamahaman89
11-18-2005, 10:23 PM
well its just going to cost me money i dont have, Does anyone have a idea how much it will cost?

1984kxtTECATE
11-18-2005, 10:47 PM
well its just going to cost me money i dont have, Does anyone have a idea how much it will cost?

you could probably shoot an e-mail or go into napa and get a quote, I know the calipers arnt cheap, but you do have a core charge on that item so you will get some money back at least.