Saving a LONESOME 2.9L ford..........

[OldSchoolin86]

I think you've convinced me to try and save this 2.9 in my BII Lonesome.

Short story, I pulled codes, O2 - PIP - fuel came up. Changed the filter, module, pick up, and O2 sensor. I did gain a couple PSI on the fuel pressure and it ran better then it did before but still acted up.

You used to be able to run around town all day with no problems but as soon as you did 2-3 miles of highway it lost a ton of power and barely wanted to move, sounds and feels like cylinders are missing. Also it does tick like crazy too and this may be key here but the more power it looses the more it ticks. Now that I did this stuff today it still acted that way but I got about 10 miles down the road instead.

Got back, pulled codes again and everything looked good (code 11 on KOEO, KOER & Constant). I then did a comp test and this is what I got:

1 - 140
2 - 145
3 - 165
4 - 130
5 - 140
6 - 135

Any advice how to fix this? It serves it's purpose getting me around town but it would be nice to be able to go on trips with it.

Thanks

[slothminx]

Osin....... We talked about it starving the hydraulic lifters so that your not getting full lift. I was thinking, this seems more likely. You say it ticks well if the clearences had opened up then it would tick like crazy. Is there a way you can measure the oil pressure in the oil gallery leading to the bank that gets the oil starvation?

[Jason Hall]

Are you loosing oil pressure? Is the EGR valve hanging open? Could it be spark knock you are hearing? Does it sound like it's the lifters that are tapping? I know some of those old 2.8 or 2.9 motors had solid lifters. But It would have to be a pretty old one if that were the case. If you are hearing a top end clatter, the lifters could be getting starved for oil, so they won't pump up & you will loose a ton of power. The oil gallys could be plugged tight from sludgy oil. I had a 1970 chevelle with a 250 six cylinder, that thing leaked oil so bad out of the valve cover that it would push allmost all of the oil out & the lifters would start to clatter real bad & it would barly pull it's self. So I would barly roll into the gas station I worked at & fill up the oil & check the gas :lol:.

[OldSchoolin86]

Osin....... We talked about it starving the hydraulic lifters so that your not getting full lift. I was thinking, this seems more likely. You say it ticks well if the clearences had opened up then it would tick like crazy. Is there a way you can measure the oil pressure in the oil gallery leading to the bank that gets the oil starvation?
As far as I know there is no way but I'm open to ideas.


Are you loosing oil pressure? Is the EGR valve hanging open? Could it be spark knock you are hearing? Does it sound like it's the lifters that are tapping? I know some of those old 2.8 or 2.9 motors had solid lifters. But It would have to be a pretty old one if that were the case. If you are hearing a top end clatter, the lifters could be getting starved for oil, so they won't pump up & you will loose a ton of power. The oil gallys could be plugged tight from sludgy oil. I had a 1970 chevelle with a 250 six cylinder, that thing leaked oil so bad out of the valve cover that it would push allmost all of the oil out & the lifters would start to clatter real bad & it would barly pull it's self. So I would barly roll into the gas station I worked at & fill up the oil & check the gas :lol:.Oil pressure is good, 99.9% sure it's not spark knock, definitely sounds like lifters, 2.8 was solid, 2.9 was hydraulic, and it's very possible that something is clogged. If it was clogged does it make sense that it runs fine around town all day and then when you run highway speeds for a few miles it acts up? It doesn't leak or burn any noticeable amount of oil. I flushed it 3 times and it helped the ticking a bit and the first 2 times a decent amount of black came out. Now when you pull the dip stick it looks as clean as a new car on a dealer’s lot. Maybe the lifters are just toast and can't take rpms? LOL, I have no idea.

[Jason Hall]

I bet the small oil gally holes feeding the lifters are half plugged. Another thing thats possible is the pick-up screen in the oil pump is restricted. When tooling around town, it's getting enough oil to keep the lifters pumped up. When trucking down the highway the pump could be getting starved of oil. Does the engine knock or rattle badly when it's first started when the oil is cold?

[OldSchoolin86]

I bet the small oil gally holes feeding the lifters are half plugged. Another thing thats possible is the pick-up screen in the oil pump is restricted. When tooling around town, it's getting enough oil to keep the lifters pumped up. When trucking down the highway the pump could be getting starved of oil. Does the engine knock or rattle badly when it's first started when the oil is cold?
Just the normal ticking, nothing any worse.

[LonesomeTriZ]

Damn, I wish I found this thread earlier. I have not read what every one else had to say, so I can not offer an oppinion on that. How ever. I will tell you what I know about your symptoms. Although the 2.9 is a good strong engine it does have a weak oil pump. When they start to go out they can starve your top end for oil. One reason they go put is due the sludge that biulds up. The pump has a hard time pushing through it. I would suggest a damn good flush. But I fear the damage is already done. Another thing you can do is pull your pan and see how it looks. The only problem there is you have to pull your engine to do so.

[OldSchoolin86]

Damn, I wish I found this thread earlier. I have not read what every one else had to say, so I can not offer an oppinion on that. How ever. I will tell you what I know about your symptoms. Although the 2.9 is a good strong engine it does have a weak oil pump. When they start to go out they can starve your top end for oil. One reason they go put is due the sludge that biulds up. The pump has a hard time pushing through it. I would suggest a damn good flush. But I fear the damage is already done. Another thing you can do is pull your pan and see how it looks. The only problem there is you have to pull your engine to do so.
I flushed the hell out out it actually and it did help but it didn't correct the problem. After about 50miles since the last flush the oil still looks like it's riding in a new car, very clean looking, not black like before.

So would you say that with the given info I should plan on pulling it and installing a new pump and cam set? What did you think about the compression numbers? Thanks

[LonesomeTriZ]

The compression does not worry me as much as the possible damage from a weakend pump. I am willing to bet a new top end may be in your near future. Personally, if I were to pull it to replace the pump and cam, I would go ahead and do the whole engine while it is out of the vehicle. Why not? You will already have it torn down and out. You have to go insdie of it any way. That would be the time to make any internal mods you may be thinking about. I had a tired 2.9 that I put a lot of work into. I put a new and biult top end on it not to mention all the bolt on stff. Then the damn oil pump went out. Had I just went all the way while I had it out I would have saved myself a whole lot of work. :mad:

[Jason Hall]

Could the catalatic converter be plugged? Or the EGR valve be hanging open?

[LonesomeTriZ]

It sounds as though what he is describing is internal engine problems.

[OldSchoolin86]

I pulled the cat so I could eliminate it from the testing. When I get her sorted out it will go back on.

[Jason Hall]

Does it have a knock sensor? Is there a chance that the knock sensor is picking up the lifter noise & backing the timing way back? Did you check the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge?

[OldSchoolin86]

Does it have a knock sensor? Is there a chance that the knock sensor is picking up the lifter noise & backing the timing way back? Did you check the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge?
Damn good question, let me check on the sensor. The oil pressure has been checked mechanically.

EDIT: Any idea where to find it? LOL The part shows up under my vehicle but I can't find anything to show me where it would be.:wondering

[OldSchoolin86]

Found it. To test the timing I pulled the jumper and set it at 12 degrees. Went for a cruise and it does the same thing. Timing is ruled out. Thanks for the help.

[N5HNY]

Have you changed the EGR valve ?

Watch those codes. Every time I get a long thread of numbers, I find I have an intake manifold leak. Check all of your vacuum hoses. The plastic "T"s can break too. Remember that some of those "T"s have a small check ball in side them.

Regardless of make or model, I have had these troubles and that is what fixed them. EGR or intake manifold vacuum leak.

[OldSchoolin86]

Have you changed the EGR valve ?

Watch those codes. Every time I get a long thread of numbers, I find I have an intake manifold leak. Check all of your vacuum hoses. The plastic "T"s can break too. Remember that some of those "T"s have a small check ball in side them.

Regardless of make or model, I have had these troubles and that is what fixed them. EGR or intake manifold vacuum leak.
No EGR to change.