garage insulation help(updated pics1/27)?

[bigred1]

i have a new garage 22x26 2x4 walls from what i gather the recomendation for walls (in my area of Nebraska) is r18 i read the way to achieve this is r15 fiberglass and 1/2 to3/4 inch foam board. others say to just use the r15 with kraft for vapor barrier, still others say i should use plastic sheathing over the insulation for vapor barrier. can anyone shed some knowledge about insulating a garage? i have to get this done before they will finish installing electricity. PLEASE the imediate future of my trikes depends on your help! sorry a little dramatization there lol. thanks for the input.

[nate b]

I would just use R-13 unfaced fiberglass and then install a 4 mil plastic vapor barrier over and sheet rock or plywood over that. Most of your heat loss is going to go through the ceiling. I usually run a R-38 in attics if possible, here in wisconsin.

[YTM 225dx]

I agree with nate out here in Illinois we run kraft faced r13 on the wall and on the ceilings i would put a kraft faced r19 should be plenty insulated with that kind of insulation. Good luck

[atctim]

I find in very odd that you have a new garage with 2X4 walls - i would think in Nebraska a 2X6 wall would be code to accommodate for more insulation. But then again - code for garages may be much different than that of a dwelling.

Did you build it yourself - or have it contracted out? Also - How high are your ceilings?

[Dirtcrasher]

The problem with 2x4 framing is that you need to keep the insulation fluffy. It has a better R value when fluffy versus stuffed in place. That only leaves you just under 4"s for insulation thickness. The insulation board they sell is very expensive, all insulation is very expensive. It would have been better if it were 2x6 walls. Trust me, I know how expensive this stuff gets.... To reach that R value you'd probably need insulation board on both sides of that wall, one under the interior finish (sheetrock?) and one over the plywood exterior before vinyl siding. IDK what type of finish your building.....

I hooked up with a guy that builds metal buildings and he gets me the 3 foot wide x 20' or more ends of the rolls. Be good to try and find a space metal building guy and see if they have leftovers. I was paying 25$ for a truckload!! For our area in the N East, I have plenty of insulation in my walls.

[ATC185R]

Finish the wiring and then go ahead and put your inside sheeting up (plywood, chipboard, etc.) Then buy some styrofoam blow in insulation. It is simply loose styrofoam BBs. Put it in trash bags and dump it in between the studs from the top. We did this to our large farm shop and it is pretty comfy. No idea on the R value but I think it's pretty good. No idea how much this stuff costs- we had 4 stocktrailer loads given to us. One drawback is that it is very messy- it will look like it snowed when you are done. Don't know if this will fit your application but we sure like it. Some say there is a machine that will blow it in, others say it won't work. We just used trash bags and cardboard boxes. Anyway, something to think about. Another option would be the spray on expanding foam. (industrial "Great Stuff") This would depend on if you wanted to use inside sheathing. Hope this helps--AJ

[Yamahauler]

pink fibreglass is aprox R-3.4 per inch
extruded polystyrene (Blue or Pink styrofoam) is R-5 per inch
expanded polystyrene (Beadboard) is R-3.7 to 4 per inch

if you want R-18. you would need to fill the cavitys with polystyrene which would cost the most and would only be r-17.5.

You should figure out how much it will cost to buy 2x4's and rip them in half, nail them to the edges of the existing 2x4 studs then you can put R-20 pink fibreglass in the cavitys.

Use 6mil poly as a vapour barrier and tape all the joins with tuck tape

[bigred1]

I find in very odd that you have a new garage with 2X4 walls - i would think in Nebraska a 2X6 wall would be code to accommodate for more insulation. But then again - code for garages may be much different than that of a dwelling.

Did you build it yourself - or have it contracted out? Also - How high are your ceilings?

i'm not familiar with all the codes but it was built by a garage company and i have permits.

[bigred1]

thanks for all the feed back guys. after talking to more people around the area i think i'm going with the r15 insul. and 1/4 or 3/8 OSB for the walls and for the ceiling OSB and maybe a double layer of r19. we've had weather now at -15 and no insul. I can manage with overalls a hat and gloves not ideal (but not the worst i've delt with cosidering the last 4 winters at this house i didn't even have a garage lol) so i think with this application and a portable 35,000 to 150,000BTU it will be enough to get me through the realy cold days. let me know if you think i'm missing anything and thanks again for all the feed back.

[400exguy]

Another option would be the spray on expanding foam. (industrial "Great Stuff") This would depend on if you wanted to use inside sheathing. Hope this helps--AJ

If your talking about the actual stuff they came out with for insulating, that stuff is SUPER expensive from the little I looked into. I hear it is the best though.

As for all the other blow in types, I also hear they can be really messy especially when you "over fill" and it comes out the hole of application.

Once again im just going from the little I have seen/heard while my brother was looking into all the alternatives.

[Yamahauler]

stay away from blow-in in the walls. After you fill, it settles, and you have a void at the top of each stud cavity. which will be a cold spot.

whta is a double layer of r19?

[nate b]

I would recomend not using 1/4" osb on the walls.

[bigred1]

whta is a double layer of r19?[/QUOTE]


just two layers of r19. r19 is what isaw at the hardware store for attics, there might be something better for the attic i'm still looking on that part.

[bigred1]

I would recomend not using 1/4" osb on the walls.

i was wondering if it would be to thin, is this why?
would 3/8 be sufficient then?

[Yamahauler]

I would put nothing less than 3/8" on the walls.

By this R19 stuff..this doesnt happen to be p2000, does it? if so. dont do it, its a total scam. you may get R4/inch at the most. Plus you will be paying over twice the price of beadboard

[Dirtcrasher]

Lets see some pics of your garage.

I put 1/2 inch plywood all around the bottom 4 feet and sheet rocked the upper 4 feet. I wanted some fire protection. I used 1/4" masonite on my ceiling again because it is fairly fire retardant. But both the plywood and masonite were free from job sites.

OSB is fine but it does absorb water and flakes if you paint it. But it'a about 10$ a sheet versus double for the 17/32 plywood.

There is nothing wrong with 2x4 framing, it just doesn't allow for much insulation. I too would probably scab them out a couple more inches to keep the insulation fluffy.

[bigred1]

heres some pics of the toys new home

[Dirtcrasher]

LOL, you already filled it!! Premanufactured trusses too!!

May I ask what this cost? I'll PM you if you don't mind. I built a 20x16 5 years ago on a slab with arcatectural shingles, vinyl siding etdc but lots of stuff for free for about 3 grand. I need to move and build a big building more like 20x24 and was just curious what it ran you - I think you "had it built" also...

Looks very nice though, I'll be it feels GREAT!!

[bigred1]

i'm also having driveway added, poured exit ramp on the backside, and a couple loads of dirt in to help level the surrounding area plus they had to bring everything back with a power buggie and bobcat cause of limited access to the back yard also with the extra wide front door plus the back door and the two windows total bill... some where around 17,000 i got other quotes and this was the best price for everything i wanted done.

[Dirtcrasher]

Thank you!!

I'm gonna look into the metal buildings also, did you look into them???

They don't really "fit in" with the look of a home but I have a full machine shop too and I really need something huge and functional. I would absolutely LOVE to park my backhoe indoors also..

[bigred1]

looking to sell the house in a couple of years so this was the best opt for me. if i were sticking around i would probably have went with the larger metal bldg further back, for a hobbiest/mech or what ever you can't have to big of a shop lol. i would have went double or even tripple the size if i were able

[nate b]

I would have charged about $8,500 to build that. I should move to nebraska

[bigred1]

I would have charged about $8,500 to build that. I should move to nebraska


if you could do everything that i mentioned for $8500 and turn enough proffit to live then i say pack up and come on down.

[Yamahauler]

There is no way you could build that for 8500. material alone (with concrete) would be around that I would imagine.
In canada, material would easily be 12000+

we would charge about $12/ sq.ft for labour minimum, frame to finish for a garage like that. (no concrete)

But thats canada

[Dirtcrasher]

I agree, the cost of materials would probably run that price.

[bigred1]

just got back with the r13 bat and few sheets of 1/2" OSB the insulation is a breeze to put in i just got to figure out the best way to get the wall up?? with drywall they say hang it horizontal would this be the same with osb or does it matter?

[bigred1]

anyone have ideas about which direction i should hang the walls?

[Yamahauler]

It doesnt really matter. I would hang it horizontal. because the bottom 4 feet get damaged more than the top, so if you had to, you could replace the bottom row.

[Dirtcrasher]

Hang them horizontal and stagger the joints. It is stronger that way as there isn't any one 8' tall joint on the same stud.

I also kept mine one inch off the floor so water wouldn't wick up the wood. I did use a double plate on both the top and bottom plates.

[bigred1]

I did use a double plate on both the top and bottom plates.



what do you mean double plate?? what is plate

[hublake]

The plate is what you nailed your studs to on the top and bottom.