1922 south bend 9'' lathe restore ......New stuff

[SWIGIN]

i picked this nice little lathe up the other day and aready started on cleaning it up and repainting it and polishing some parts.

its in REAL good shape for any age lathe but especially for a 1922 , other then the 20 coats of paint and all the oil it is super tight...no play what so ever.

most of the ware points still have machine marks in them from when it was built :w00t:

once i get done with it and get it all hooked up i wont have to bug HRE all the time to use his lathes.

[250RNUT]

I wonder how many warbird parts it built

[honda250sx]

Nice. I have TONS of old info on Southys. You can probably get that serial number off the way and actually find out who, where and when it was purchased. PM me Wayne I will let you know how. I have some wicked cool charts on those as well.

[SWIGIN]

sweet, pm is on the way

[SWIGIN]

i just showed the lathe pics to HRE, he said i need to scrap off the blue paint and paint it grey....lol

[honda250sx]

Wayne what you have here is a 9" workshop lathe. For many model and experimental engineers the definitive South Bend lathe is the 9-inch "Workshop" Precision backgeared and screwcutting model. Designed and first manufactured in 1933 it was announced in January 1934 as the "Model 5" with a single, basic specification of screwcutting by (20DP) changewheels and hand-cross feed. This first model had virtually nothing in common with either of the earlier, cheaper South Bend lathes, the 8" and 9" Junior models, and was most commonly listed using the catalog number "405" - the "4" referring to a lathe intended to be driven by bench-mounted countershaft. The earliest mention of the lathe so far discovered comes in a January 1934 works pamphlet that provided examples of advertisements available for dealers to use in to their local press - should you have an earlier mention the writer would be very interested to hear from you. More details of these very early 9-inch lathes, and their supporting literature, can be found here. Although a perfectly functional lathe the first model did have some shortcomings that were fully addressed by the manufacturer through an interim model (listed as the 415) manufactured from around September 1935 until the 1938/9 and the introduction of a new range consisting of "A", "B" and "C" versions - the latter with changewheels and hand cross feed and very similar to the 415. However, even as the lathe developed, by as early as 1935 the makers were boasting of "Ten New Features" - though it has to be said that polishing the rims of the carriage and tailstock handwheels was allowed to account for two of them. The catalogue for November 1936 lists the 415 as the "New 1936 Workshop" - though even at this date it still retained a changewheel cover complete with the first type of (405) threading chart - but transposed from front to end face. The Model 5 (Type 405) and its development is covered in detail on these pages.
Taking account of the hard economic times of the 1930s the Model 5 was engineered to sell at a price that would appeal to the amateur and, in view of the fact that it would probably not be used for very heavy-duty work, constructed from comparatively light castings in comparison with other models in the range; however South Bend, it seems, were prepared to sacrifice nothing in the way of quality of fit and finish and the Model 5 and subsequent versions were very well built. The makers boasted in early advertising literature that the lathe was: "built entirely of steel, cast iron and malleable iron ….. No die cast metal is used." - the latter reference being a dig at Atlas with their mass-produced 9-inch lathe.
With its excellent materials ands sound construction the lathe found a ready market. The hole through the headstock spindle was 3/4" - although a few (much later) lathes have been found (in England) fitted with a modified headstock from the 10-inch lathe, complete with the huge 13/8" bore spindle. The headstock bearings were lubricated at first directly through top-mounted, spring-cap Gits-brand oilers with a feed passed onto filter felts, held within a groove, from where it dribbled downwards, hopefully less any dirt.. After 1936 the oil cups, with dip wicks, were used; these allowed the operator to fill them at the beginning of a job and check when more was required. In 1938 the lathe was given even better protection from forgetful owners with oil fed through spring-loaded wicks from reservoirs built into the lower part of each bearing column (as on larger South Bend lathes) with Mobil Velocite 10 oil as a suitable and recommended modern equivalent to the original lubricant. The felt wicks were designed to deliver oil upwards - minus any dirt which may have worked its way in - by capillary action. Should you remove the spindle a problem arises: the felts pop up into the space created and prevented it from being replaced. The solution? If each "elbow" oiler is turned through 90 degrees a small hole is revealed, bored horizontally through the casting, designed to accept a length of stiff wire to hold the felt down whilst the spindle is replaced. A word on wicks: the felt used needs to be dense - it has to transmit the oil by capillary action, regulate the flow whilst also acting to filter out any dirt. Industrial-grade felts in various sections and thicknesses are still available from engineering supply companies and it pays to look out the correct type, not a household grade.
Originally described as both the Model 9-inch "Workshop" Lathe and the 9-inch "Workshop" Precision Lathe, by the end of World War Two (in 1945) the marketing department must have considered the term "Workshop" to be "down-market" and it was dropped from the catalogues and the single description "Precision" used instead. The words "Precision" and "Toolroom" were freely used by South Bend throughout their catalogs for many years to indicate specifications and equipment levels - rather than any intrinsic merit, or mechanical superiority over other lathes in their range. In general terms (and depending upon the particular size of machine) a "Toolroom" lathe would have had a taper turning attachment, a collet storage board, a collet draw bar for the spindle (and just a single collet) supplied as part of its standard equipment.
On its introduction the 405 -"Workshop" was available in eight "models" and four different bed lengths of 3 feet (model 15-YB), 3.5 feet (model 15-ZB), 4 feet (model 15-AB) and (very rarely) 4.5 feet (model 15-RB). These gave, respectively, between centres' capacities of 17", 23", 29" and 35"; the mechanical specification of the lathes' main components was identical, the only differences being in their ancillary equipment - the term "Model" being stretched to include numerous combinations of drive systems and stands.
The basic lathe was supplied without a countershaft unit, or motor, and was priced, on its introduction, at $75 for the shortest-bed, 18"-between-centres version to $116 for the longest, 30-inch capacity model. Other, more expensive options were available, including ones where the lathe was supplied complete on an underdrive stand with either a plain "Simplex" or "adjustable" countershaft fitted with an electric motor and reversing switch - and ready to run. The "plain" countershaft suffered from the disadvantage of having no provision to adjust the belt tension to ease the change from one speed to another - although both the motor and the base of the countershaft were slotted to allow initial belt tensions to be set; with these countershafts changing speeds meant having to "roll" the belt from one pulley to another a method common at the time but still inconvenient.
The adjustable countershaft had a cast-iron upright hinged to a stout baseplate with an over-centre lever to set and lock the angle between them. The lever allowed the belt tension to be released instantly and the belt moved easily from pulley to pulley; this countershaft could also be supplied with a 4-step V belt drive for which, of course, a much greater release of tension was needed to allow the V belt to be moved out of its deep groove. Another advantage of the adjustable countershaft was that it allowed variations in belt tension between different grooves on the pulleys (which is often present - and increases with wear) to be removed by making a small adjustment to the left-hand/right-hand threaded turnbuckle between the two halves of the tensioning rod. The plain-countershaft lathe, in short-bed form and ready to run, was priced at a total of $98.25 whilst the much more desirable model with an adjustable-countershaft was only an additional $5 - which probably explains why most 9-inch "Workshop" lathes are found today with that fitting.
The most expensive "ordinary" 9-inch Workshop lathe during 1934 and 1935 was the 4-speed V-belt drive long-bed model at $154; however, during the following year (1936) a "Toolroom" version was introduced, complete with a hand-wheel activated draw-in collet chuck (with one collet of any size from the range), a taper-turning unit, micrometer-carriage stop, thread-cutting stop for the cross slide and a collet tray held on a supporting bracket which was clamped down over the back V of the lathe bed. This machine, with a 4-speed V-belt countershaft drive and hardened headstock spindle, retailed for $205.25 in the shortest bed length - and $246.25 in the longest.

Phew...:welcome:

[SWIGIN]

nice info...i did a google search and found out they started making lathes in 1906 and starting in 1910-1947 the serial numbers were how many were built....but they started with first one at #700.

so up till 1947 if you subtract 700 from your serial number thats where your lathe falls into the run.

if this is true mine is the 26,592 lathe built since 1910.

[honda250sx]

They also built this in a "Precision Toolroom Model" which was different from the toolroom model in the aspect that it had a quickchange gearbox. I'd give my first born, left nut, and right leg for that lathe. It had EVERYTHING a benchtop could ever need. It was truly a masterpiece. There is no finer manual lathe that was AMERICAN made. Your atlas,logan,etc's dont even compare.

[honda250sx]

Call southy they should have a capability to tell you WHO bought that dinosaur! I mean it was probably the distant relative of tricerotops. Get yourself some MACHINE GREY paint, and get to work.

DIRTCRASHER has one even older. And his looks really nice. Of couse he has some serious time in making it the way it is now. He to loves the southy's. HE NEEDS A HEAVY TEN though!

A heavy ten southbend and a well equipped bridgeport and you can't be stopped!

[honda250sx]

You probably stole this thing didn't ya?

Can I ask what you paid? Looks to be in awesome shape with a little lovin.

[SWIGIN]

great......2 votes for battle ship grey...lol

[SWIGIN]

You probably stole this thing didn't ya?

Can I ask what you paid? Looks to be in awesome shape with a little lovin.


my buddy bought it maybe 4 years ago for like $350 and added the quick change tool rest and a nice set of those triangle tiped tools....so he had like $550 in it.

i traded my .40cal pistol for it that i had about $450 in.

HRE has 4 lathes 2 are south bends....ones about like mine but its newer with the quick change tranny thing and the other one is smaller and looks about as old as mine if not older.

i use his tiny southie more then his larger newer lathe but now i got one....cant wait till it's done.

[honda250sx]

Well you deserve to own one. Id trade a firearm anyday for one. Guns are cool. Shooting gets old. Shooting for tenths of a thousandth, now I do that all day!

[Dirtcrasher]

Looks nice SWIGIN!! Mine is supposedly a 1928.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh220/Dirtcrasher/SBlatheCrossslideetc.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh220/Dirtcrasher/28SBlathe.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh220/Dirtcrasher/SBlathetailstock.jpg

I used oil based Rustoleum machine grey and it's help up very well.

I wish I had the legs for it!! Got for 100$ off the WantAd.

Like Jeff said, I need a heavy 10 - the large spindle thru hole and quick change gear box rule!!

[The Goat]

Guys I wouldn't know how to begin to use it,and prolly wouldn't after staring for a few hours... But those are working masterpieces.

Bravo for the restore. Swigin I'd go with black. Then again near everything I own is dark.

The blue doesn't look bad, but it reminds me of those cheap northern presses too much.

Is powder impractical?

[Vealmonkey]

Let me say I've really enjoyed this post. Very informational and I like the old really cool stuff anyway. Reminds me of being at work. The machinists at work have been giving me some lessons but I'm really just learning. I hope to see many more pages of info here. It would be a shame for this thread to fade out. SWIGIN, are we going to see some custom parts being made? It sounds like we should have a field trip to your house soon.

[honda250sx]

Cade, They do make a machine grey powdercoat. I have done some parts for a friend. The only bad part is that these lathes are usually contaminated with alot of oil. Which makes them harder to powdercoat because when you heat the parts off the outgas the oil residue. Hence why it is important to BAKE OUT the powder

[honda250sx]

Steve,
Once again. I hate you! Haha. j/k. Thats what friends say when they are in ENVY!

What you have there looks period correct for the date you mention. It is almost certain that the 8-inch "Junior", was the first South Bend lathe to use a remarkably effective system of economical manufacture where the headstock spindle was hardened and subjected to a "super-finishing" technique that allowed it to run directly in the cast iron of the headstock. Given just a modicum of lubrication this arrangement (also used on many of the later and even more popular 9-inch Workshop models) appear to give the bearings an almost unlimited life. Interestingly, not all models were so equipped for examples of the 8-inch lathe have been found with "babbit" (white-metal ) bearings and in some years the 9-inch was offered in a basic 6-speed form with an unhardened spindle and a top speed of around 630 rpm (whilst the hardened-spindle version had 12 speeds reaching as high as 1250 rpm) and also with bronze bushes - though the latter have only been discovered when lathes have been stripped down and were not mentioned in contemporary catalogs.

The first small South Bend lathe entered the catalogues in the early 1920s as the 9" Junior New Model. This was, in effect, a 10" lathe with reduced centre height and had almost nothing in common with the much more famous and popular 9" model introduced in 1934 and called by South Bend the "Workshop" model. Whilst parts from the original 10" lathe (the screwcutting gearbox and power-feed apron for example) can, with a little fiddling, be made to fit the Junior models, bits from the later 9" "Workshop" lathes cannot be used. As an example of the design changes between the two an examination of the tumble-reverse mechanism would show that the 9" Junior, like its larger cousins, featured a spring-loaded, solid-bronze lever and brass-covered handle with positive indent location - whilst the later 9" lathe had a much simpler plain, cast lever, clamped in place with a bolt. Even though it was an inexpensive model the 9" Junior followed South Bend's original practice of using phosphor-bronze bushes, lined bored, lapped and adjustable for wear.

8" Junior New Model South Bend,This was the baby of the range and only offered for sale during 1931, 1932 and 1933 - although it is possible that some unsold stock might have lingered on into 1934. Everything was done to both produce the lathe as economically as possible and distance it in desirability from its very much more expensive brothers. Although both the spindle bore (at 3/4") and collet capacity were the same as the 9" version, the spindle ran in the cast-iron of the headstock, the nose was reduced in size from 11/2" to 13/8" and given a 10 rather than an 8 tpi thread. Both the headstock spindle and tailstock centres were taken down from the usual No. 2 to a rather miserable No. 1 Morse taper, the drive belt was narrowed by 1/4" to a 1-inch width and the compound slide assembly was more lightly constructed with a smaller capacity toolpost. At around this time the beautiful but expensive and time-consuming black "Japanning" finish was dropped and the lathes finished in ordinary oil resistant paint of a dark grey slightly tinted with blue. The 8" Junior was listed with various between-centres capacities from as little as 61/2" to 301/2".
A wide variety of stands and countershaft-drive systems was offered for both the 8" and 9" Junior, from simple rear-mounted 3-speed units to complex under-drive systems built into solidly-constructed stands.
One option exclusive to the 8-inch (and only offered in the dedicated advertising sheets) was to have a single, plain slide instead of the compound unit - and if this was chosen then, in 1932, the cheapest 8" lathe could be whittled down to just $98, and the cheapest 9" $160 - a considerable saving in a time of economic depression and widespread unemployment.

[ProCarbine2k1]

Funny how you guys are talking lathes, I was getting ready to post some pics up of my Crafstman (Atlas or Dunlap, not sure) I bought last week. Ill make a seperate post in a couple days, but it has me pretty excited.
I love these benchtop machines! Learning to machine, and learning to weld have been a couple of the greatest things I chose to do. We are big on vocational programs in central Ohio, and I am a believer as well.. Nice looking lathes guys!

[SWIGIN]

Looks nice SWIGIN!! Mine is supposedly a 1928.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh220/Dirtcrasher/SBlatheCrossslideetc.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh220/Dirtcrasher/28SBlathe.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh220/Dirtcrasher/SBlathetailstock.jpg

I used oil based Rustoleum machine grey and it's help up very well.

I wish I had the legs for it!! Got for 100$ off the WantAd.

Like Jeff said, I need a heavy 10 - the large spindle thru hole and quick change gear box rule!!



nice lathe DC...thats the closest one iv seen yet to looking like mine. my apron has 2 star knobs and the screw cutting lever but the head on your looks just like mine.

i was at HRE tonight, i was showing him some of my stuff and he whiped up a spacer for my flat pulleys (the ones that are mounted behind yours) turns out my buddy was running it with the pulls rubbing on the pully stand....:(

i might go back to HRE tomorrow and i'll try to rember to get some pics of his 2 south bends....one is a 8'' little thing and the other is a ''newer'' 9'' that i'll guess is from the 50s.

but dude i LOVE the way you have your pullys mounted with that ajuster rod...i'll have to get a pic of how my buddy has the pullys and motor mounted, he had them on the wall but i think i can make his setup use gravity to keep the belt tight.

[SWIGIN]

Let me say I've really enjoyed this post. Very informational and I like the old really cool stuff anyway. Reminds me of being at work. The machinists at work have been giving me some lessons but I'm really just learning. I hope to see many more pages of info here. It would be a shame for this thread to fade out. SWIGIN, are we going to see some custom parts being made? It sounds like we should have a field trip to your house soon.



you bet i'll be makeing parts..... no more then before (well maybe more...lol) but now i will be able to make them at home instead of running to HRE and useing his shop.

[SWIGIN]

i have a question, whats the thing called on the left end of your lathe with the red handle and it has 2 gears on it?

mine works fine but the gear towards the back has a few teeth missing and i need to know what im looking for.

also my back gear is missing 2 teeth on the small gear end and i see your not useing your back gear.....do you have it and want to sell it?

if not will any 9'' south bend gears fit either of these 2 places?

[Vealmonkey]

I was just down looking at our one lathe here at work and noticed it is a south bend. I did get some info off of it. It says Catalog CL 145C, Bed 6
And the bed has a label Bed Ways Flame Hardened It also has the number16663T and the machine base has a plate that says the serial number is 16663T and there is also a number 3.413.D and then it has some electric motor information on it, but that plate isn't very readable. Can you tell me about this machine if that info makes any sense.

[Dirtcrasher]

i have a question, whats the thing called on the left end of your lathe with the red handle and it has 2 gears on it?

mine works fine but the gear towards the back has a few teeth missing and i need to know what im looking for.

also my back gear is missing 2 teeth on the small gear end and i see your not useing your back gear.....do you have it and want to sell it?

if not will any 9'' south bend gears fit either of these 2 places?


I believe thats for reversing the lead screw. I have the full set of change gears but I have an issue with one gear that got fixed a thousand times so I'm not using it right now. I was going to try and find a treadmill and use the variable drive to run my lead screw.

I built that whole motor bracket and adjuster. I have SO many hours into this lathe it's crazy!!

I have the full backgear setup too, I just wanted to make new eccentric bushings.

I like this lathe, there's allot of history in it.... But, I need to cut threads and hold bigger materials so it will be sold at some point. Most likely when I find a 3 phase heavy 10 for about 1500$. I do not have the room for 2 lathes :cry:

Sadly, not unlike our trikes, these get parted out and the beds get thrown away. The gears and other parts get some good cash on EBAY.

[SWIGIN]

today i painted the carage and cleaned up the apron and apron gears.

i never had an apron off before...theres a ton of stuff going on in that thing.

in the first pic you can see what i found in the pile of stuff that came with this lathe....its a add on chip guard, i bolted it on but need to paint it yet.

second pic is the back of the apron and the third pic is whats all behind it. the last pic is that handle to change the lead screw direction.

today at HRE i was makeing a new stud for my lathe on his little south bend 8'' and i got to looking at that handle on his and it had a cool spring loaded lever atached to the handle.

mine had nothing and if the bolt was loose the lever would fall causing it to ruin the teeth (like it did) if it was running. so we started to mod my handle so you have to press on the new lever on the handle to let it change settings. its only 1/2 done and when its done you wont know thats a bolt. thats spring is sunk 1/2 way into the handle and the new lever so it wont fly out. and the bolt and the bottom of the new lever is drilled 1/8 for a roll pin to act like a piviot point..... more to come on this later

hope that made sence, im bad at describing things

[blue27]

I vote color Blue, of course, you need to be different. Plus when you get that thing running I have work for you,lol.

[SWIGIN]

I vote color Blue, of course, you need to be different. Plus when you get that thing running I have work for you,lol.


i like blue too and if it pisses off HRE then i REALY like blue....lol



heres what i did today on it


first and second pic is the apron all together and ready to go

pic 3 4 5 is just a few shots of it together for now....i did polish up my knobs and a few other things.

last pic is the new lever im working on...i got a roll pin down threw it to act like a piviot and cleand up the piviot bolt some.

[SWIGIN]

here are the 2 south bend lathes HRE has and the HUGE 18'' monster that was built in the 1800s.

first pic is the monster...the thing was steam driven when it was new...lol

the rest of the lathe pices are his 8'' and 9'' south bends

the last pic is his mill combo machine

he uses these every day and i love the little 8'' lathe....i made some parts for my 9'' on it the other day.

[SWIGIN]

i just signed up on a lathe site and they have a great collection of south bend info.

it seems my lathe is way older then i thought and it look alot like this 1930 model. my lathe has 2 star knobs on the apron, this seems to be a 20s-30s design and take a look at the half nut lever (on the right of the apron) it looks just like mine.

my buddy still has not gave me the book for my lathe but it seems if it is a book for a 1941 than its not realy for mine.

i just noticed that pic says my lathes crated weight was 415 pounds...no wonder it felt so heavy....lol

[SWIGIN]

i found a site that breaks down the serial numbers by year........it looks to be a 1922

since my serial number is 27,292 that puts it in 1922 and he has no lathes with a 27,200 number....i'll have to get ahold of him.

http://www.wswells.com/serial_number.html

[SWIGIN]

looks like its a 1922 from the casting date i found cast into the inside of the bed as well as the info in the link posted above.

i'll have to change the tital of this thread if im right.

[honda250sx]

those ways look nice. you can still see the scraping pattern in them. Good rule of thumb when looking at old manual lathes is to feel the ways with a thumb nail. If there are ridges in it stay away. its seen serious use without much lubrication. Usually this occurs mostly in the Sweet Spot of the lathe. Up near the chuck where most work is done.

[SWIGIN]

yeah they do look nice other then the pitting from rust...i cant believe how little ware this thing has.

must of just sat around for 50 years

[SWIGIN]

the other day i got the bed done and i started putting it together last night.

right color or not this thing turned out alot nicer then i thought it could......the ways were so flaky with rust i thought it would need major machining to bring it back.

i just have a few gaurds and the head to clean and paint yet.....and build a nice heavy steel table to put this on.

the brass tag in the last pic was hard to get a picture of with out a huge glare...it is way brighter then it looks.

[SWIGIN]

here is the info i got from a south bend site....the guy realy knows his stuff

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by SWIGIN
I was told it was a 1941 south bend 9'' swing with a 3 foot bed....from looking at some pictures on here it seems to be a 1922.


it's a 1922,

27292, 9" x 3' Bed, "O" series Catalog No. 25-Y, Standard Change Gear lathe with DFC counter shaft drive. Bed casting date is 3/21/22

The model 25 was a very good and hard working lathe, priced right and with power cross feed. You have what looks like one in very good shape, pictures please.
Is it on floor legs or is it a bench lathe?

Steve

[aaron7]

I didn't know people restored stuff like that. Very cool!

[SWIGIN]

thanks man, i think its neat as hell


heres some pics of my lathe table i just built. the top is 3'x4' 3/16 plate and the legs are 2 3/8 pipe and i used 2''x2'' 3/16 angle for the top frame.

the 3rd pic is of the aluminum spash sheild im mounting on the wall for the oil fling to hit.

last pic is just the 87 year old drum switch i cleaned up.

[honda250sx]

Looking good wayne!

[SWIGIN]

well its just about done....just need to do the one arm and the gear door but here's how it sits now.

i got a 6.5'' atlas chuck off ebay...its a little big but the jaws don't hit the table when fully open.

the last pic is of the take up nut we just made at HRE....nether of us realy threaded on a lathe before but we got it.

[brapp]

wow looks cool
i liek this old stuff

[SWIGIN]

yeah, i think it looks neat too. i had no idea how it would turn out but luckily it didnt need more then a few simple to make parts.

i got my first oil fling line going up my newly painted wall....lol (you can see it in the first 2 pics)

today im going to put my aluminum splash gaurd on the wall and try to set up the tail stock with the chuck and get to turning.

[brapp]

swiggin u plannin pn puttign it to work and makin soem parts for some of us local boys?

[SWIGIN]

sure man

i always made most of my parts, or at least what i could but i have made many parts on HREs lathes for years. and back in the late 80s i was turning new 200x front axles out of tool steel in high school metal shop....lol.

so its not like im new to this i just need to get set up alittle......but yeah man just ask if you need something.

[brapp]

yeah buddy i ahve soem toolign jsut not a decent lathe. mabey we can do a little bartering.someday

[SWIGIN]

more pics later but i got the lathe all dialed in but my feed speed is a little fast and the cuts are rough.

it only came with 1 extra gear...a 80 tooth monster.....i need to get some gears for this thing.




edit.... well i found a use for the 80 tooth gear, it has a key way so that makes it a screw gear. well i threw it on and it seems a LOT better now....i just need to get a bigger motor for it sometime but it works good as is, you just have to go slow.

heres a pic of the 80 tooth after i put it on and im holding the one i took off up to it. and i'll throw a shot up off the pulley system i ended up useing....im letting gravity do the work but as you can see i need to pile stuff on it yet to get it tight enough....lol

[SWIGIN]

another thing i ran into was i busted the take up nut while trying to press off the little gear on the end of the spindle.....i wanted to puke when i seen what i did.

turns out beings this is an 87 year old lathe and different then most other south bend lathes i was on my own to find a replacment. so i went over HRE yet again and showed him what i did and what i need to do to make one.

turn out he didnt have the 1 1/8x16 tap i needed (witch costs $55) so we decided to thread it on his lathe....keep in mind we never threaded on a lathe other then just messing around. turns out his threading chart for his lathe was NOT right at all...so we just kept messing with the levers till we got 16 threads per inch (took about an hour). he then handed me some 2'' round stock and said there you go...get to it....lol

heres the busted nut and my first atempt. the take up nut is basicly a threaded coller that locks down with a screw.

the second pic is my second atempt at makeing this and it fits perfect...i need to find a set of threading gears so i can do this stuff on my lathe.

[SWIGIN]

i got the gear cover painted and put on today....i just need to get the brass tags put back on it now.

i also got to start on a milling atatchment....my brother had this little cheap vise he was going to throw out so i took it and machined a peice that fits it nice and tight that i will somehow get to fit where the tool holder goes.

[HondaHarry]

Thats too cool, I want one, so I dont have to bug the hell out of my freind and use his stuff all the time... I think he is starting to get sick of me. lol
Great Job! HH

[SWIGIN]

thanks man, i realy got into this little project.

i think HRE will be happy when i get this thing all set up too since im always using his stuff...lol

[SWIGIN]

well the brass tags are on so im calling it done. there will always be little things i might make for it but as far as the restore it's now done.

the brass tags are suposed to be black with the raised parts showing brass so i polished them with 000 steel wool and painted them, then carefully scraped off the paint on the raised letters.

i did not do all of the large threading tag since they seem to get beat up anyway and i didnt what to mess up the red S at the top of that tag.

first pic is just a before pic of the little tag.

[Dirtcrasher]

Very nice!!

Where did ya get that toolpost!

Nice to have all the guards and covers - I have none and no tags on mine either :(

[SWIGIN]

MSC, grizzly type places sell them.

its a phase ll ( roman numeral for 2) its a joy to use these piston type quick change tool holders.

MSC just had them on sale for $99 but normal price is about double that. i got lucky and talked the guy i got the lathe from into buying it a year ago so i got it with the deal for free....lol



link to tool holder http://www.grizzly.com/products/Quick-Change-Tool-Post-Set-10-Swing/G5689

heres the tool kit i have http://www.grizzly.com/products/5-pc-Indexable-Carbide-Tool-Bit-Set-1-2-/G5640

the inserts are cheesy but i will replace them with good ones

[honda250sx]

There are guys that repop them tags wayne.

Nice job.

On a CNC there are no gears. Just code in what you want. LOL. I could have made you about 25 in 5 minutes. Ahh Technology...

[SWIGIN]

i seen guys who do the tags for $50 a pop.....mine look ok and it was all but free.

[Dirtcrasher]

^ Yeah, ENCO just sent me a catalog with that post for 95$, I wasn't sure if that toolpost came with the deal or not. I'm sure you've been watching EBAY for a gear set, they can fetch quite a bit of cash........

I will be selling my lathe this year. Although my present lathe is great for little collars and spacers etc etc. I do not have room for 2 lathes and I want one lathe with a quick change gear box that does it all. The big stuff, I'll have to farm out..... I also need a larger opening to slide things into the spindle and about 3' long working length would be perfect and fit in my shop well.

Sad to say, just like 3 wheelers, I may part out my lathe..... I'll see if anyone wants to pay a grand for it as is, but I doubt it. Then the beds get sold for scrap :( - Ahhhh, the American way!

So, if I decide to go that route, I'll sell you my gears if you don't find a set by then.

I need and want a heavy ten and it has to get done soon, just like the TIG welder!!

[SWIGIN]

please, please, PLEASE do not forget to let me know when you want to sell some parts off your lathe.

back gear, change gears, tumbler gears...ect

i hope you can sell it whole but if not let me know first.

thanks

[SWIGIN]

my lathe also came with a new set of end mills 1/4-3/4'' 2 and 4 flute so i decided to give milling on a lathe a try.

this is the first thing iv milled on a lathe but i have needed a dial holder for my spare dial indicator for years. in the first and third pic, the black end is what i made...it was a scrap hunk of 1 1/4'' round solid stock.



i also made the aluminum pivit/hinge things needed to use a dial indicator and the rod was just 5/16 stainless that i threaded to fit into the lathe and to the milled holder end.

[Dirtcrasher]

Hey SWIGIN, sorry about the delay..... I'm not much of a PM guy (ATCST@Verizon.net) works well though :D

Honestly, I am not 100% sure I even HAVE a SB lathe?? It's so old that I believe the serial numbers were on the missing covers... That number on your casting, is that under the headstock or where is it exactly??

Even my spindle is very odd. It is 1.75 - 8TPI and that isn't available, I had to have a backing plate machined but SB does not list that thread.

I have been told it's an SB, and someone stated it was a 1928 based on a few features he pointed out (that info is long gone now...) I have pics somewhere of the castings that ran the pulley shaft, I sold it fro AWESOME$$ because I could build my own easier.

Anyhow, here are the gears - they are .875 w/ a .1875 key. Again, maybe an odd ball.... BUT! These gears are mint, look never used and not one broken tooth so I'd assume that to the right person, they are worth some great bucks!! I've got a huge perfect 14" face plate for this lathe too....

What website are you getting all the help on?? I gotta sign up and figure this thing out!

GEARS:

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh220/Dirtcrasher/Lathegearsettwo.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh220/Dirtcrasher/Lathegearsone.jpg

Again, it's a nice little lathe, but I need more. The biggest thing is the ID of the spindle. I have allot of stuff I need to slide thru a bit to hold it better....

[SWIGIN]

all south bend lathes since 1910 have a serial number on the right end of the bed stamped right in the way closest to you. normally right where most guys leave the tail stock sit when not in use.

those gears look wide and the ID of the holes dont seem to be south bend....you might be right as far as it not being a SB.

post pics of it on practicalmachinist.com there's tons of old school machine freaks on that site.

edit ...... the number is on top of the bed right under my tail stock.

[SWIGIN]

im quickly learning why they make live centers.....dead centers SUCK to work with. first thing i did when i got the lathe running was to turn all the dead centers i have so they are ready to use.

they are already wasted after a few uses and they need constant oiling and ajusted as the work heats up from the friction.

so yesterday i started on making a live center, getting the taper right is the tricky part so it seats tight in the tail stock. i'll be using a sealed ball bearing in the big end and make various tips that fit the ID of that bearing.

this is made out of some kind of real hard steel thats bin floating around the garage for years and it turns horrible but it should last.

[SWIGIN]

i got my live center done, man is this thing nice to work with.

i never did like dead centers and never really used them before....what a PITA

i bought a bearing and pressed it into the body then i made a few different tips tonight.

[thefox]

So are you taking orders for trike parts yet, I could use some swing arm pivot bolts for the YT/YTM suspension kits...... lol

It looks great! Now if you can't find it, build it! :w00t:

[SWIGIN]

we could maybe work something out.

that kind of thing is about the perfect size to do on this lathe.

tonight i also had a xr500 sleeve chucked up in my lathe to be shortened to fit in a 350 cly.......it's done but it was a little large....lol

[thefox]

I will defiantly keep you in mind but it will probably be a couple of weeks. I have to finish drawing up the brackets and send the file to have them cut then check with the fabricator we use a work to see if he can bend some tube for me. It will probably be turned down to a 3/4" shaft with ends turned down and threaded to 12 mm.

[honda250sx]

Wayne. If you use that center, get some high pressure lube. You dont want to weld that guy into your work piece. McMaster Carr has it. Check it out. I highly recommend it.

[The Goat]

hey swigin...if you didn't want to get the rod extended from powroll, but did want to run the xr500 cylinder, could you not only cut the cylinder, but have the piston cut as well...rather than run that spacer plate?

[SWIGIN]

Wayne. If you use that center, get some high pressure lube. You dont want to weld that guy into your work piece. McMaster Carr has it. Check it out. I highly recommend it.

no lube needed man, well there is greese in the bearing.

i seized a dead center in a work peice last week....thats why i made this live center.....the tip spins with the work peice.

[SWIGIN]

hey swigin...if you didn't want to get the rod extended from powroll, but did want to run the xr500 cylinder, could you not only cut the cylinder, but have the piston cut as well...rather than run that spacer plate?

wow goat, put the peice pipe down my man.....lol

i think you wanted my ascot thread. your thinking backwards, the rod needs shrunk but yeah i do think that you can shave the piston dome and shape the combustion chamber of a stock head enough.

just remember DO NOT get a xr500 12:1 piston

being higher it just makes it worse

[honda250sx]

no lube needed man, well there is greese in the bearing.

i seized a dead center in a work peice last week....thats why i made this live center.....the tip spins with the work peice.

Contrary to popular belief, it can be done. Just advice. Looking out for ya buddy:beer

[SWIGIN]

true, if for some reason the bearing would seize the tip would need lube.

[honda250sx]

Well mostly happens in high speed, DEEP depths of cut.

[SWIGIN]

oh i see, tons of load on the bearing can cause the tip to stop.

as im shure you know these old lathes spin slow compared to modern machines (to slow in my opinion) and large cuts are impossible.

largest cut i can get on steel is .015 or so....and at that depth it looks terrible.

the spindle to saddle speed ratio is off for todays fast cutting tips it seems.

[honda250sx]

Yes it is nearly impossible to obtain speed and feeds that carbide and high end tooling require on these old dinosaurs.

you should buy your self a nice used book on ebay on cutter and tool grinding. You should be designing your own high speed steel cutters from blanks. They can be bought in 1/4 and 1/2 blanks.

I dig thru some old docs and look

[SWIGIN]

i used to grind them back in metal shop days and i have a few new blanks and a pile of HSS tips.....but then i cant use my cool tool holder...lol

my indexable inserts are only rated C2 (brass aluminum) i got some decent ones coming from MSC.

as long as i can make a half way decent looking cut in steel i'll be happy. and once i get a 3/4hp motor i'll be able to gear it up a good bit.

[The Goat]

wow goat, put the peice pipe down my man.....lol

i think you wanted my ascot thread. your thinking backwards, the rod needs shrunk but yeah i do think that you can shave the piston dome and shape the combustion chamber of a stock head enough.

just remember DO NOT get a xr500 12:1 piston

being higher it just makes it worse


lol....no peace pipe...I was actually thinking that your lathe would make short work of that.

[SWIGIN]

i just made my first MSC order for some indexable tips and a few 90 degree carbide tiped tools and a few other things.

just wanted to give a heads up, till the end of the month i have a code for free shipping....saved me over $10.

plus since this was my first order i got an extra 25% off....lol

i never would of guessed you can double up on the deals like that.

[SWIGIN]

DC you might cry over this but i found a complete set of change gears on ebay and every one is on my thread chart and they are like new (for being 80 years old or so)

the seller says they only fit 1920-1939 9'' lathes so i was lucky that theres not a lot still in use so no one was looking.

the easy to find sets go for this much and higher so i feel lucky to get these at the price i did.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=370181063795

[Vealmonkey]

I love deals on ebay. I see the Honeymoon is still on. LOL I"m getting worried about you. I know the winters are long and cold up in Pa, but enough is enough. LOL Make us some cool beans parts with this thing already. Looking forward to coming up and riding with you on the tracks. Keep your fingers out of the gears.

[SWIGIN]

the honeymoon is definitly still on!....i love this thing.

give me something to make and i'll make whatever you want if i can.

most of my parts makeing things have already bin made before i got this sucker so i need guys to just let me know what they want and such.

i had a ball just makeing tooling and things for this lathe....i cant wait either for some small parts orders.

[SWIGIN]

well it's bin 2 weeks and i got some great deals on tooling and parts as well as made a new die wrench.

the first pic is the 200x axle i made back in the late 80s in like 10th or 11th grade in metal shop. i broke a front axle jumping and at the time i think they were $75....so when that one started to bend i built a pile of these and handed them out to my buddys. anyone ever see an''aftermarket'' front axle before...lol

second pic is the die wrench i made mostly on my lathe. i had to use HREs mill to flaten off the handle posts. but this is the die i bought way back then and it was only used for makeing those axles but i might have a need to use it soon so i made a wrench.

3rd pic is some free tooling a guy at work gave me. he was a machinist for an old guy for 18 years and he didnt need these anymore. its a real early style quick release where the tip comes out and you can drop in a different style...it came with 2 hand fulls of tips just for that holder. the patten date in this tool holder is 1906...lol

[SWIGIN]

here is the change gears i got off ebay. i made a stand so they dont vibrate and fall and get chipped up. they are in perfect condition and to think they are at least 75 years old!! so soon i'll be cuting threads on this little sucker.


the last 3 pics are just some things i made

i had some decals made for my drum switch so people know what is forward off and reverse. i also made some little brass plugs to keep chips out of my oil holes.

i made my dial indicator arm out of 5/16 stainless and i milled the black end on my lathe and made the piviots at HRE.

[SWIGIN]

the next thing i want to do is rig this wood lathe head up to drive my lathe. it has 10 speeds and with the ajustable pulley its range is 600-2400 rpm.

i will be getting a new 3/4hp motor to mount to this gear box just like it would be on a wood lathe and then tap a pulley so the pulley threads on the spindle to drive my lathe.

this grizzly wood lathe head is brand new never used....another guy at work bought a new wood lathe and this head had a flaw in the casting that has nothing to do with what im doing. he gave it to me for nothing.

[Vealmonkey]

Well, make us some trike parts already. LOL How close is the 350x and the 200x front axle bolts? Spacers for the front axle in stainless? How about some heavy duty 110 front axles and spacers? Maybe some axle spacers for the disc brake front ends on the suspension 70s?

[SWIGIN]

what ever you want man just let me know.

im not even thinking of pumping out anything till someone wants something....i dont need trike parts sitting around....lol


let me know and i'll turn it

ps...axle spacers would be a peice of cake to make.

[Vealmonkey]

I enjoy your thread, I just miss you talking about trikes and that killer quad. LOL I think I will be needing some heavy duty suspension 70 parts, It's about to get a little crazy.

[SWIGIN]

ok man i'll pencil you in...lol

[SWIGIN]

check this out....a guy on that lathe site just posted an add for my lathe

[SWIGIN]

my grizzly order came in so i have some goodies for that green wood lathe head.

i got an arbor shaft with bearings, it was 3/4 with 5/8 threaded ends but the ajustable pulley that i ordered to match up with that wood lathe head has a 16mm bore so i had to turn not quite 1/2 the shaft down to 16mm.

the ajustable pulley uses a 80mm long key so that how wide i made my 16mm cut.

i also decided to get some cast iron pulleys and thread them to 1'' x 12tpi so they will thread right onto the spindle of the wood lathe head. i have the new motor wired so forward will be tightening the pulley but im going to use a set screw in the pulley for when i use reverse.

basicly the green thing will sit right where the motor is now and the motor will turn the arbor which will be conected with a belt to the green box. the threaded pulley on the spindle will turn my pulley tower that sits behind my lathe.

basicly i'll be going from a 6 speed lathe to a 60 speed lathe...lol

i just want to get the gearing right so when i have the lathe and the green box both on high im not over 1200 or so rpm.

[harryredtrike]

hey thanks for bringing up this thread.what a sweet machine.nice find man.

[SWIGIN]

hey thanks for bringing up this thread.what a sweet machine.nice find man.

no problem man, thanks


as of today i have both pulleys threaded to 1''x12tpi and they seem like they will work great on the spindle. i located both pulleys set screws to line up at the same point when tight and made a flat spot for them to hit.

i had to run a thin spacer behind the 2'' pulley and face a bunch off the larger one so when tight the V of the pulleys are in the same spot for belt alinment.

in the second pic you can see the key for the ajustable pulley to slide on. i had to cut an 4mm x 80mm slot in the arbor shaft for the key to sit in.

i also got a job at my buddys graphic shop and today they were teaching me how to run the vinyl cutter so i whiped up some south bend decals in an old looking font.

[SWIGIN]

after looking at that yellow decal for a day i hated it....so i yanked it and whipped up a gold leaf one with a metalic gray shadow.

first pic is just the gold...the rest have the shadow

[SWIGIN]

a great guy on practicalmachinist.com made up some thread dials and grears for an 8tpi lead screw and was selling them as a pair with a drawing and you just had to make the body.

i didn't have threading gears at the time so i didn't get a kit but now i wanted one and he was sold out and not making more for awhile.

well, another guy on there put the kit he bought up for sale since he didn't really need it so i bought it.....$45 no shipping!

if i had a index i would make the dial out of steel (he used aluminum) but this is the only thing i dont realy like about this kit.

i only have the dial end done but the gear will be sunk up in as well when done. i also (like in the drawing) will be using a pointer instead of the normal hash mark on the body to line up to the marks.

other then changing the body size to fit my old ass lathe i decided not to use a ball bearing in the body like he shows. instead i used brass bushings since the real south bend thread dials didn't use anything but the cast iron body as a bushing and there is no load on a thread dial....and they turn real slow as well

[SWIGIN]

i have the body done, i just need to make mounts for it now.

when boreing out the body for the gear i had the body come lose in the chuck...marked it up good and the dial didn't fit in due to the 3 dents.

i got it back in shape and all is good now but i did finish it with my steady rest in place....lol

[SWIGIN]

well, i finally got around to finishing that thread dial and the mount.

works perfect and i even cut my first threads on my lathe today!

the threads arn't perfect but the rod was bent and i just wanted to see if my threading chart and those gears i bought work together. so i set it up to cut 18tpi and it did!

[SWIGIN]

what the heck, here is a shot of my next project.

im making a thread protector used when you have the chuck off so you dont hurt the threads on the spindle.

it is 2 3/4'' aluminum that needs to be threaded to 1 1/2 x 8tpi

i bought 16 inches of 2 3/4'' aluminum so if anyone might want one let me know. i only need just over 1''....lol

[SWIGIN]

and 2 1/2 hours later............

[honda250sx]

Nice work Wayne!

[Bryan Raffa]

Nice job !!

[SWIGIN]

thanks guys, your looking at the first threads i've tuned on this lathe.

[Bryan Raffa]

thanks guys, your looking at the first threads i've tuned on this lathe.

ya thats pretty cool you actually got to the point where you can make parts for it.;) the gold leaf is a nice touch

[SWIGIN]

It's been a couple months so i thought i'd show a few thing i made for my lathe.

first, i needed to thread some front axles and after alot of work i decided to make a die holder for the lathe. im still not sure if it saves any time but we will see.

the sencond pic is just 2 more thread protectors i made to sell.

[Dirtcrasher]

Nice work bud :D

:beer

[SWIGIN]

thank you sir, still making chips with your lathe?

[blue27]

its about time you make a die holder!!!! LOL

[SWIGIN]

i snaged a foot pedal the other day for my lathe but i didn't want to use it with my foot. i came up with this little hanging mount that lets you lean into it with your leg to bump it on.

this will be handy for threading with that die holder i made while in back gear.

the best thing about this hanging like it is, is that the way i made my table it can be put anywhere on 3 sides.

[MudBug]

I have an old lathe but we only ever used it for wood. ill try and find out what year it is

[SWIGIN]

cool man, can you get some pics?

[MonroeMike]

Real nice work.

[SWIGIN]

well i have something in the works and it's kind of a big project to a home lathe guy like me.

here are some hints, any guesses?

edit..... don't mind the skoal can, i use that to show scale.

[Dirtcrasher]

An angle plate and what is that- a dovetail cutter? whats the other cutter??

Suks I can't make threads :(

DC wants a heavy ten................

[SWIGIN]

An angle plate and what is that- a dovetail cutter? whats the other cutter??

Suks I can't make threads :(

DC wants a heavy ten................


yup, 60 degree dovetail and a 5/16'' T slot cutter. I'll post more ingredients as they come in.

hint...... think lathe parts.



I'd take a heavy 10 too...lol

[SWIGIN]

after my last post the mail man brought me another piece of the puzzle.

this is a modern compound for a south bend lathe (anything is modern when you have a 1922...lol). my compound has no dial and it uses T bolts to fasten it to the saddle which is a PITA.

i am not going to throw this new compound on my cross slide since it wont fit and since this old lathe is in real nice shape im not hacking it up.

first shot is how it looked when it came today, and the next 2 shots are what it looks like as of now. the 4th shot is of my original compund setup. last shot is it all back together with only .007 play!!!

any idea what im up to yet?

[SWIGIN]

ok, here it is, im makeing a new cross slide and upgradeing to a newer compound with a dial.

the new cross slide has T slots in the back of it and will greatly open up what i can do with this sucker. while i was at it i ordered a casting for a rear mounted tool post that uses the T slots.

this cross slide casting was only $48 and it comes with pages of drawings and machineing instructions and the best part is IT'S MADE IN THE USA!

in fact he is right here in PA (state collage area) and is a super nice guy to deal with.

[SWIGIN]

Here's a 2 day progress report, well 2 nights after work report ;)

I'm machining this cross slide over at HRE since he has a milling machine and i think we got it just over 1/2 done in 2 nights.

Day one I clamped it down to the mill table and took a few passes with a big carbide head to true up the casting top and bottom. Then i let it ''rest'' over night like i have heard you should do with a rough casting to see if it will move at all...it don't seem to have moved.

Day 2 I marked a center line down the length of it on top and located where I want the new compound and screw nut holes to be. While i was marking lines i marked 2 45 degree lines where the 2 set screws and shoes will ride and clamp onto the compound so it will be easier to find there location when it's time to drill them.

While I had it clamped to the table and had it running straight we thought now would be the time to cut the T slots as well so they would be 100% true.

Everything turned out great so far and it is starting to look like a finished cross slide now.

[Dirtcrasher]

Looking good, you have TONS more ambition than I do :D


Nice stuff bud!!

[SWIGIN]

Thanks DC

it is alot to figure out and then do but it'll be worth it i think once i get to use it.

tonight we got a good bit done, basicly all but the dovetails are done. We started to figure them out and things got deep real quick.....

[Vealmonkey]

Not to sound simple, but what will happen as the end result of all this? I've been trying to follow all this, but with having real limited knowledge of lathes and mills and such, it's alot that I just don't understand. I think alot of members on here are like me and not quite as up to speed as you on all this.

[SWIGIN]

Not to sound simple, but what will happen as the end result of all this? I've been trying to follow all this, but with having real limited knowledge of lathes and mills and such, it's alot that I just don't understand. I think alot of members on here are like me and not quite as up to speed as you on all this.


The reason I'm doing this is i hate my old compound since it has no dial. Add to that the fact that my lathe chattered pretty good when cutting off or during heavy cuts due to the skimpy cross slide, you end up with this mess...lol

The new compound seen above has a dial so I'll know what I'm doing when i move it. The new compound also is a far more modern design and it is supposed to be far more ridged.

The new cross slide with the T slots is FAR beefier then the old one and this will let it soak up more harmonics. The T slots are for mounting anything your heart desires and will really open up what i can do on this lathe.

good question veal, i wasn't real clear on why i did this.


here is todays progress

Basicly i have all the mounting holes drilled and taped into the top surface. They are used for mounting points to mount things to the cross slide. WE also ran a end mill around the T slot end to clean up the sides of the cross slide.

The compound clamping holes are also drilled and threaded, and i drilled all 9 gib screw holes.

[SWIGIN]

If anyone wants to check out what other things he sells here is the site

http://statecollegecentral.com/metallathe/

His name is Andy and he is real great to talk to and deal with.

[Vealmonkey]

Show us some of your trike project parts then. I just see you using your lathe to make lathe parts! LOL You need to make some of those aluminum axle spacers that I left with Bruce that hold the atc70 hubs in place! Lord knows that between the 2 of us I don't even know how many atc70 based machines we have and I only have 1 set of the hub spacers.

[SWIGIN]

All i need is an order for them and you'll have them....lol

[honda250sx]

I knew this was an MLA part. Just kept it on the DL. lol I have done several of Andy's pieces.

[SWIGIN]

I knew this was an MLA part. Just kept it on the DL. lol I have done several of Andy's pieces.

It figures you knew...lol

hey, would you know of a place that has a surface grinder?

I'd kinda like to get the top and bottom ground on this thing.

[honda250sx]

Got a local college? If you took it to there machine shop I'd bet they'd have one and do it for free.

[SWIGIN]

Happy Thanksgiving!

i got this thing painted and mounted up today. My old lathe now parts through steel like a hungery beaver though wood :w00t:

[SWIGIN]

Here is the milling table and vise i came up with for now. i had to true up the end of the vise so i had to make a cutter with a 4'' swing.

The first pic is after i trued up the end of the vise with my cutter....works pretty good.

[Vealmonkey]

If you sit and think about all that you are doing now, imagine what people did when that was brand new in 1922!

[SWIGIN]

If you sit and think about all that you are doing now, imagine what people did when that was brand new in 1922!

probally not much, they were trying to come up with the light bulb and indoor plumbing....lol

[Vealmonkey]

Wayne, Are you set up to take 1" off a set of Honda 90 cases where the cylinder sits???????? LOL

[aldochina]

just read this entire thread! Very cool although most of it was alien, i still enjoyed it. the lathe turned out awsome, and i like the blue! Looks like you are addicted to this thing. Cool youll be able to churn out all kinds of stuff. Enjoy using it as much as restoreing it.:beer

[SWIGIN]

just read this entire thread! Very cool although most of it was alien, i still enjoyed it. the lathe turned out awsome, and i like the blue! Looks like you are addicted to this thing. Cool youll be able to churn out all kinds of stuff. Enjoy using it as much as restoreing it.:beer

Thanks, it has come a long way since i first got it. I found myself going back though this thread the other day just to see what it started as.

I do use it quite a bit and i find it a real good way to unwind and relax. More side jobs would be nice but thats OK.

I'm about to get back to mounting up that green variable speed box to my lathe but that means takeing the drive line out of it so I'm trying to make whatever i think i might need to make before taking the motor off.

anyway, glad you enjoyed this.

[SWIGIN]

Today I mounted a huge 12''x8'' lamo beam under the lathe to hopefully soak up some minor harmonics that would get the table shaking slightly. I figured while the lathe was unbolted this would be a great time to atack the new motor plate and gear box i started on way back when...lol

Im going to mount the new one on hinges just like the other one and let the weight of the plate/motor/counter shaft put tention on the flat belt like before.

With the counter shaft mounted higher then the gear box (green box) i think i'll have just enough room for my flat belt.

[Dirtcrasher]

NICE!!

Mine rattles around quite a bit, thats if I can get high speed to run before it trips out the overload :lol:

I think I have 4 steps on my damn flat pulleys! I had cast iron arms that housed the opposing pulley shaft, but I ditched it and made my own. BUT, there was allot less flex within that cast iron than there is 1.5 x 1.5" .1875 angle iron.

You've really done a super nice job with this lathe! At least you can thread! I can't but it's amazing how many simple things you can actually to with these old lathes and having the Bridgeport as an accompliss, I can do most of the stuff I need to for modding parts/shafts/brackets/collars etc etc up :D

[SWIGIN]

SWEET!
So i guess this is DC aproved...lol

60 speeds here I come!

[SWIGIN]

I got the new motor/gearbox unit done today. It works smoother then i thought it would as far as changing grears. All i have to do is mount the unit to my table and hook up the flat belt.

[SWIGIN]

Well, i got it all rigged up and so far it works perfect. With a turn of the gear box handle i can go from 720 rpm to 60 rpm with out using back gear!

My top speed is a tad slow but a simple pulley change will take care of that. I'm shooting for 850-1000 rpm. When i do get my top speed up to 1000 or so I will need back gear for real low rpm but for the most part all I'll have to do is just turn the handle to dial in my speeds. :Bounce

http://i50.tinypic.com/205e7v6.jpg

http://i46.tinypic.com/1e5s9x.jpg

http://i45.tinypic.com/33bfsc8.jpg

Here is a shot of the old school RPM counter HRE left me borrow.
http://i46.tinypic.com/fegxn8.jpg

[racerxxx]

Hey Swigin,

Are you using a serpentine belt for the flat belt? Looks like it, that's a great idea! My dads old Southbend has the leather flat belt and if you take too heavy a cut you can slip the belt, but I bet with the rubber serpentine she'd grip prett well.

[SWIGIN]

Yes it is a serpentine belt. It is a huge improvement over leather but if you do get it to slip it squeals like a pig.

What size lathe do you have? Do you have any pictures of it?

[SWIGIN]

I dialed in my speeds to what im calling good. I swaped the 2'' pulley for a 3 1/4'' pulley to get my top speed from 720rpm to 1100rpm.

I'm making a speed chart to put on the green box so I'll know what gear does what, I'll post a pic when I get the chart done.

[blue27]

that gear box need to be painted blue!!!! or repaint the whole thing amish grey,lol

[Dirtcrasher]

Like I said, you've got some serious ambition!! And always nice work!

I used my lathe allot this weekend for something I'm making up. That stock toolpost hold has me going NUTS!!

Let me know if you see a 4/5 in 1 quick changer, I like the wedge type......

I gotta back up a fe pages and see what you have for a tool holder?? The round boring bar wasn't cutting the mustard yesterday when boring a shaft ID :( ................ I got it, but not easily.

EDIT - Where's your backgear shaft?? I gotta make some offset bushings but then I'm ready to use it.

[SWIGIN]

or repaint the whole thing amish grey,lol




........................I used to think you were an OK guy.................

[SWIGIN]

Like I said, you've got some serious ambition!! And always nice work!

I used my lathe allot this weekend for something I'm making up. That stock toolpost hold has me going NUTS!!

Let me know if you see a 4/5 in 1 quick changer, I like the wedge type......

I gotta back up a fe pages and see what you have for a tool holder?? The round boring bar wasn't cutting the mustard yesterday when boring a shaft ID :( ................ I got it, but not easily.

EDIT - Where's your backgear shaft?? I gotta make some offset bushings but then I'm ready to use it.

thanks man, I use a phase 2 quick change piston type tool holder and for the money they can't be beat. I even got HRE to get one for his 10'' SB.

I just took some pics before putting my backgear and covers on so the new setup could be seen better. But to be honest, i wont need backgear much anymore....wait till you see my speed chart.

here is a link to the cheapest place i found phase2 tool holders. I bought 4 extra holders so i have like 9 total ready to drop onto my tool post. the set screws are cheesy but they are cheap enough to swap out.
http://www.cdcotools.com/index.php

[Dirtcrasher]

Thanks for that link!!

Whats the one you have? It must also be for a 13" lathe??

What you have is what I need, ENCO wants 200$ for a wedge type and 180$ for a piston. Which are you using, any thoughts??

Thanks!!!!!!!

Whats the difference of AXA, BXA and CXA??

[SWIGIN]

I have the phase2 AXA or series 100 piston type. There is 2 ways of sizing these tool posts but AXA is sometimes called 100 series, BXB = 200, CXC = 300... ect
Here is a shot of it right when i got the lathe.
http://i46.tinypic.com/300tlq8.jpg

The AXA is made for lathes with 9-12'' swing.....BXB is for larger swing and CXC is for larger yet.

I cant stand the old lantern style original tool post either but every once in a while I find a need for it.

Here is the size I'm useing but like I said the set screws are cheap and will round out, but the tool holder is made well and works like a dream. http://www.cdcotools.com/index.php (link didn't work... search item number 29461 on that site)

here's another place that sells quick change tool post kits.
http://www.shars.com/products/view/1540/Quick_Change_Tool_Post_Set_Piston_Type_100


To make a long story short, my lathe came with the phase2 tool post in the pic above. I wanted more drop on tool holders so i ordered 4 AXA holders from cdcotools and they seem to be just as good as the phase2 holders but the screws are junk....I'd bet they are made in the same plant as phase2.

[SWIGIN]

Today i made my new speed chart so I can keep track of all 60 speeds and know what RPM I'm turning. I tried to make it old looking by useing colors that the original lathe tags used and by useing a old looking font.

This is 1/4'' plexiglas and the vinal decals are on the back side of the plexi so the decal wont get messed up by oil or whatever.

http://i46.tinypic.com/2w380uh.jpg

[sixpackrt]

I have access to a friends south bend lathe been sitting in his basement the letters on the top are LCR.
I'm also trying to figure out what this lathe Is there is no L. I see T = 13 what does J mean ?

catalog # 113 c

Swing Gear, Apron, and Drive Spindle and Swing Type

N= 9 inch K= Quick Change Gear (QCG), Friction Feed Apron, R= Regular Spindle Hole,
Underneath Motor Drive (UMD
Standard Swing
R= 10 inch P= Standard Change Gear, L= Large Spindle Hole,
Friction Feed Apron, UMD Standard Swing

T= 13 inch A= Quick Change Gear (QCG), Friction Feed Apron, E= Regular Spindle Hole,
Overhead Countershaft Drive (CS) Raised Swing

F= 14 1/2 inch B= Standard Change Gear (SCG), D= Large Spindle Hole,
Friction Feed Apron, CS Raised Swing

H= 16 and 16/24 C= Standard Change Gear (SCG), T= Turret
Screw Feed Gear, CS

Y= Standard Change Gear (SCG), X= Special
Screw Feed Gear, UMD
C= Cam Lock Spindle

K= Taper Key Lock Spindle

The following factors about the lathe are conveyed in the catalog number because of the infrequency of repaired part orders:

http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/0/5/9/6/2/6/webimg/338500846_o.jpg
http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/0/5/9/6/2/6/webimg/338500782_o.jpg

[SWIGIN]

That is a 1942 13'' lathe.

Those other letters in the bed have nothing to do with decoding it. South Bend only stamped numbers in the bed up untill right after the war.

Post war bed serial numbers have letters and that is what the break down you posted is for.

I don't know who stamped those letters in the bed but they aren't a part of the lathes serial number, but they might mean it was used in the war effort.

[SWIGIN]

I decided awhile ago I wanted to add some roller thrust bearings to my lathe spindle since it just has a steel spacer that rubs against the rear bearing for thrust. This generates a lot of friction and heat when you are pushing against the spindle like when you drill or use a center.

so I ordered a few of these from MSC, they are 1 1/8 ID and are rated for something like 5000 rpm and thousands of pounds of thrust so they should hold up fine.
http://i47.tinypic.com/30kvzhy.jpg

Then, after i ordered those i found a 1929 south bend lathe head on ebay that was being sold in pieces. So i thought why not add my roller thrust bearings to that head and just plop it on since i really don't want to mess up my original parts. There are 2 huge modern improvements the 1929 head has that mt 1922 head don't have.

Here is a shot of my PITA back gear engagement bolt. You don't have a lot of room to get to it and it is a square head so you never have a great angle to get the wrench on it. And this is without the guard on!
http://i50.tinypic.com/2w7gup4.jpg

Here is a shot of the ''new'' 1929 design. It is a simple pin with a spring that you just pull out and slide up or down to engage the back gear.
http://i47.tinypic.com/snyjyq.jpg

Notice how mint the 1929 spindle is...like new.
http://i48.tinypic.com/5xsbxy.jpg

The next thing I hated about the original head was the square headed bolt that held the reverse lever in place. Again, Major PITA to get a wrench on and just not very handy.
http://i48.tinypic.com/2uy4v2d.jpg

The 1929 head uses 3 holes to locate the positions for the reverse lever and with a squeeze of the handle you just go to the setting you want....simple.
http://i48.tinypic.com/20r1p4l.jpg

Here is 2 shots of the 1929 lever that I did not win off ebay. I got way out bid but i got every thing else that came with the head so it looks like I'm making or modifying a lever to work now. ( I saved these pics to use to make my new lever)
http://i47.tinypic.com/2zewa5z.jpg

http://i49.tinypic.com/sqk08m.jpg


I also got the new speed chart installed today
http://i47.tinypic.com/ercqix.jpg



I'm tired..........lol

[SWIGIN]

Today i made a new compound gear to lower my feed rate. I always thought the feeds were a tad to fast with the stock gear.

So I bought a 80 tooth and a 27 tooth gears off ebay and made a new hub for them to ride on then I bolted them together to make a compound gear. This is FAR harder then it sounds to get them to run 100% true, I got lucky and got them to run true the first try. But i had to tighten the counter sunk allen bolts in the right order to get them to be true.

New one on the left.....old one on the right
http://i50.tinypic.com/2web7cz.jpg

counter sunk allen bolts
http://i50.tinypic.com/j80cjt.jpg

I ended up putting felt in the keyways of the new gear and I drilled an oil hole from the little gear into the keyway down at a 45 degree angle to feed oil to them. the hole just sticks out past the washer.
http://i48.tinypic.com/166dhc7.jpg

Had to make a new decal
http://i46.tinypic.com/316auz5.jpg

[SWIGIN]

Well, it took over a month to track down all the parts but i got the ''new'' 1929 head together for the most part. I found that lever I needed on ebay, it's off a 1937 9'' south bend but it fits the 1929 head perfect.

I even added a ball oiler in the oil fill tube of the lever to keep chips out.
http://i49.tinypic.com/2nqg5w.jpg

http://i49.tinypic.com/2w6w842.jpg

http://i45.tinypic.com/2j6zdi.jpg

Here is where I put those roller thrust bearings. Back then they just used thick steel (over 1/4'') thrust washers and they would slowly ware out the bronze bushing ends. The bronze bushing you see here now has those roller bearings I posted above on each side.

http://i45.tinypic.com/9fwbbs.jpg

I can tighten the take up nut as tight as I want now and it has no drag! The way they had it you had to leave .0005-.001 end play to allow for expansion from the heat those steel washers gave off. It should cut nicer now without the end play.

[Vealmonkey]

This thread never ceases to amaze me. I hope to see your "baby" one day. What you've done with this is pretty amazing. You probably have people over on the South Bend forum planning field trips to your shop. People don't realize how many machines like yours actually helped to build the weapons of war or their components in WW2. And to continue to actually improve upon the original design with later original parts is a testiment to the original designers and engineers of the South Bend lathe. And of course to your dedication and passion to your lathe.

[SWIGIN]

Thanks Pat but it will soon be time to cover this head with oil and chips....lol

I like to clean things up but I'm not afraid to use them. Like I say, they make paint everyday.


On a side note if anyone wants any machining done or parts made just shoot me a PM. Gotta scuff some paint off this thing sooner or later..lol

[SWIGIN]

I don't know if anyone is still reading this but for you guys with lathes you need to make one of these spiders.

http://i44.tinypic.com/22cl5c.jpg

http://i39.tinypic.com/2qdwqa9.jpg

It goes on the left end of the spindle and it is used to help keep long pieces from floping around when turning. I threw in a 8 foot length of 1/2'' brass ( at least 6 foot hanging out of the spindle) and it never flopped or whipped around.

I took the spider off and bumped the lathe on for a second and the brass rod was whipping in a 2 foot circle!!

worth the time to make one of these simple tools.

[Dirtcrasher]

We use to lay one about 6' away for some stuff, :lol: Just a piece of crappy pipe.

Stupid bandsaw was always broke after some meathead ruined the top wheel..........

Sticking out the other end, I had a 12" long piece of .375 sticking out and it got me good! I hit that brake quick, but it whacked me a few times!!

I'll have some pics up soon of my project.

[SWIGIN]

It's been awhile but i got some new to me tooling I had to show you guys. I was going to buy a new MT2 3/4'' drill bit since I have had no luck with my 1/2'' shank 3/4'' bit and I have used the MT bits for years at HREs shop and know they cut great. Well i snagged these off Ebay for the price of 1 3/4'' MT import bit and these are all USA made!

7 total 3/4'' down to 3/8'', the few main sizes that are missing I have in standard bits so now I'm set up to 3/4''. If any of you guys with smaller lathes have trouble with chatter using larger drill bits, try a MT bit. These drill so nice and are far more rigid then normal chuck type bits.

http://i50.tinypic.com/245h74x.jpg

[Vealmonkey]

Does this mean you are all set up to do Ascot heads now? LOL

[Dirtcrasher]

^ They seem to be quite a bit of work but SWIGIN obviously isn't afraid of a challenge!! :beer

[SWIGIN]

Does this mean you are all set up to do Ascot heads now? LOL


My spidy senses tell me some one is hinting they want a Ascot 350x motor..........lol

[Vealmonkey]

It was one thing to read your thread when you were modding the head for your 350x engine, but to see it in person. You know this is the kind of stuff that I dig on. And until you got the 110 out, you noticed I didn't stray too far away from that head or cylinder. I'm really looking forward to you getting the rest of that done and seeing what that engine will do. I know you have alot of time in that head, but it was just so clean looking. That engine is meant for your quad isn't it? Imagine that in a 350x trike?????

[SWIGIN]

Yes, it is for my RX, that motor would destroy a stock trike or quad frame in no time. :twisted:

[randycasting]

I have the same apron you do and I am trying to clean it and lossen some stuck parts. I am just about done dissasembling mine but I am having trouble with the star knob/clutch gear removal. I have the knob off, cone shaped clutch out and the threaded rod pulled out. What remains of this is a large hex shaped nut with a whole in it on the operator side and on the inside is the two gears with the two clutch alignment pins recessed on the out most gear. This is where I am stuck. The outside nut spins with some effort and spins the remaining gears attached to it. I need to pull these parts off of the apron but I don't see any set srews, threads, pins, or any reason why the gears would be so fixed to the front nut. Does it sound llike they are just stuck or is there something else I need to remove? Thanks for the pictures. I have a 9" lathe and was suprised that most pictures of the C9-10JR model A lathe use a different looking apron. I think mine was built in 1929.
Randy

[SWIGIN]

Pics would help as far as your apron. What is the serial number stamped into the right end of the bed? I can tell you the exact year of the lathe with that number.

[randycasting]

Thanks for the response. I will get a picture tonight. I am beginning to think I have a franken lathe. The serial number is in the 4700 which would make it 1929, yet the Model "A" gear box doesn't look that old. It appears South Bend started using a lever with detent holes after the 1930's. The bed looks ancient but the carriage and apron are of the type used on the 9" in the 1920's and later on the 11" lathe, but not on the 9" lathes of the 1930's and 40's.. The apron looks exaclty like in your pictures. The lathe uses standard V belts which leads me to believe that the head and motor mount are not all that old. The selector lever on the apron does not have detent holes but has a knob with a tapered end which locks into the curved slot. I will look again but the problem I see with this is it's not clear where the three positions are for apron/crossfeed drive. Once everythig is free and cleaned I can always mark these. Everything comes off very easy and the lathe has been well taken care of except for the paint. If I can get the gears from the star knob arbor apart I can find out what is causing them to bind. All the other gears turn and engage freely and are like new.

Randy

[randycasting]

Oh, In case your not sure what pictures show a carriage like mine it's post #25 of this discussion.
Randy

[SWIGIN]

Well, 4700 makes it WAY older then 1929 since mine is over #20,000 and it's a 1922. Post the complete number with any letters that might be in it and I'll decipher it. Most people don't quite understand the correct way to decipher these numbers.

A early 9'' South Bend like mine has a very wide bed compared to the more common WW2 and newer lathes so you cant really mix parts.

[randycasting]

I am attaching pictures of my apron and carriage assembly. The serial number stamped into the end of the way is 45237. There is an excel spreadsheet online that indicates thatt his was 1929 and prior to the 1930's there were no letter codes apended to the serial number. I will send pictures of the entire machine in a moment but here is the front and back of the carriage. The apron is photgraphed while upside down. In the phot of the back is a gear with two pins. This is shown after I removed the clutch. On the oposite sid is the large nut with a hole in it where the clutch arbor was. After removing te clutch I can't seem to get the remaining pieces apart. The gear with the pins seems fixed to the nut and turning the nut from the front also turns the gear. I am afraid to just pry anything as it seems connected. If anyone knows how to get tthis apart let me know. The US army manual on line is for a 1940's lathe and the apron is totally different. This is a model C9-10JR according to the gear cover but that may also have been a doner part.
Thanks,
Randy

[randycasting]

107131107132107133107134107135

[SWIGIN]

Actually they started using letters in the serial numbers in the mid to late 40s....I forget the exact year.

Ok I just looked and it was March 1947, here is the link to the number one South Bend serial number site.

http://www.wswells.com/serial_number.html

Your lathes age is between 7-3-1929 and 11-13-29 and it is not on the list, so if you want to add it and get the low down on your lathe just send Steve (owner of that site) your number he will post it on the list.

Your head does seem to be a newer style since it looks nothing like my 1929 head. These little lathes (back then) used bearing caps for the spindle bearings and your's has the newer style setup with the pinch bolt. The only head that will fit onto the older wide beds is a heavy 10 head. The heavy 10 used the wide bed like the old small lathes and they did not make a 10'' lathe back in the 20s so if yours is a 10''lathe I'd bet thats what happened.

I thought of doing the same thing to mine but I'm happy with it.


It has been awhile since I did mine but I was able to remove everything on the back side of the apron with little problem. I do remember fighting with the peice you still have on the front side. I just went gonzo on it with a large ajustable wrench and broke it loose. Mine, if I remember right, would turn a little each way then stop.

[randycasting]

Thank you for your help. I figured out that the nut is an arbor for the rear clutch gear and it is removed from the front by turning clockwise. The oil in the entiure lathe has dried and left carbon deposits. This and metal debris is what locked up the apron works. I cleaned everything off with diesel and a brass brush, relubed, and have mounted my working carriage back on the clean lathe bed. The only thing I don't care for and South Bend had the good sense to change on later models is the selection lever for the apron drive. I like the positive indent mechanism on the newer lathes rather than having to baby the lever on the older lathe so that I hit the right spot to allow the half nut to clamp. I'm not sure why one would not be able to engage both the half nut and the cross slide drive at the same time but I am not willing to experiment by removing the engagement pin. Also, you are right. This lathe actually has a 10" swing. Whoever built this up knew what they were doing and must have collected parts becasue again it came with every attachment and alot of duplicate parts. There are what apear to be various serial numbers on all the newer parts that fit the later serial number scheme. I believe the gearbox is a newer one but the apron is the same age as the bed, 1929. I have started cleaning the head, and all the gears including the back gear function well. I'll lube the whole thing up, adjust it, and by this weekend I should be able to turn the new bag inlet pipe I need for my Uilleann bagpipes. Then I'll disassemble everything over next Summer and repaint everything so it looks a bit less awful. Also I'll build a new table. I'm really glad it turned out to have a 10" swing. It's heavy enough I can turn the drive wheels for a 1-1/2" scale 0-6-0 live steam locomotive should I ever take back up that hobby. I have also owned a Logan 10X24 and I think both lathes are very well made but I like the longer bed length of my South Bend. $650 may have seemed high for this lathe but without the tooling this lathe, in slightly prettier shape, goes for around $1200-$1700 here in the Pacific Northwest. I think I did alright!
Randy

[SWIGIN]

The secret to hitting the right spot when using the half nuts (for threading only) is of course to use a thread dial. I never miss with my dial installed.

[SWIGIN]

I snagged this off ebay, NOS and has the South bend tag still on it. I got it CHEAP too, if any one is looking for a nice new yet oldschool tough cut off tool holder I sugest looking at these. He had 7 more and they have a Buy it now price of $35....you cant go wrong.

http://i53.tinypic.com/2howq4p.jpg

http://i51.tinypic.com/2w4mzxu.jpg

http://i54.tinypic.com/wvxzkm.jpg


This is how I will be useing it.
http://i51.tinypic.com/8zgv9z.jpg

This picture is from a fellow machinist from the site I go to. I have the same rear tool holder, I just need to machine it. I got the rear tool holder at the same time as the new cross slide I machined for my lathe. I am just now getting around to makeing the rear tool holder ( almost a year after buying it ...lol) And I figured I'd get a slightly larger cutt off tool to use with it.

[Dirtcrasher]

Your holder is awesome!

Got a link to those, I searched some keywords - couldn't find it. PM me if you have to.

I'd rather have one for my wedge post but I held onto the old rocker post just in case; Like for this.

Thanks!b :beer

[SWIGIN]

Here is the page I used http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200552448488&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

[Dirtcrasher]

^ Thanks bud. I'll just have to decide whether I want a tool and holder that fit in my wedge post, or this one that fits in my half moon rocker post.

Honestly, how often do you need a cutoff tool anyhow....... But, when you need it, you need it!! I'll have to re-read the auction thoroughly........

My lathe has more hours on it in the last 6 months than the past 20 years; then while it was rusting away in someone's garage, it ended up in the dump. I'm so lucky to have a complete set of gears and it just took weeks of blood/sweat and tears to get it cutting again.

If I can't cut threads with this machine, I'll be hunting for a gold old "Heavy 10"

I LOVE old school machining tools......

THANK YOU very much for the link bud!!

I'll check it out later when I'm done in the shop.......

[SWIGIN]

Sounds like you got a new to you lathe? I need pics!!!

I have a cutoff holder for my phasell quick release but after reading 50 or so pages on the ''rules'' of parting I have decided to to go with the rear setup. As i'm sure you know, little lathes don't have enough mass to part as good as a large machine will. The idea of rear parting kinda takes all that out of the equation since the cutting blade can no longer dig into the work peice.

Instead of diging in and chattering or breaking the tip now, they say, the tip will move away from the peice and can't dig in or chatter. And they say that the forces the saddle sees during a cut with a normal setup trys to lift the saddle off the V in the bed.

Anyway, I read way to much information on parting and am going to try it from the rear......lol

[Dirtcrasher]

^ Nope, same one, always improving........... Just a new tool post (finally). I run my lead screw with a variable DC drive. I missed a heavy 10 about 40 miles from my home for 400$ - no one bid........I wish I got that one, they all look at lathes like heavy junk they just want to get rid of....

I'll find one with a quick change gear box at some point. Just not looking forward to stripping and painting another one, but it will all be worth it!

You've got more drive than me Swigin, I just get frustrated. But, for 100$, I just couldn't go wrong!

PS, does a SB also cut metric threads? or is there another gear set?

[SWIGIN]

The old SB lathes used a different set of gears to cut metric threads. Try searching google for METRIC TRANSPONDING GEARS.

Maybe you can find a link that shows how you use them. Guys on ebay reproduce those gears but they are $300 last I looked.

Another metric option is to try to find a WW2 SB that was made to only cut metric. These were pretty much sent over seas with a one way ticket...very few made it back to the US.

Those are the only ways I know how to cut metric threads on an old SB.

[SWIGIN]

Tonight I started on the rear mount tool post casting. I basically just have the rough casting all squared up and did some lay out on it.

http://i51.tinypic.com/wasf1f.jpg

http://i51.tinypic.com/15j75y.jpg

In the first picture you can see I found a casting flaw in the cast iron. It is small and even though the guy I got it from said he would replace any casting with a flaw I will keep going and if I don't run into it again i will let it go.

[SWIGIN]

OK, here it is basicly finished. I need to order some T nuts and studs so I can mount it for good and get some allen bolts for where the 2 normal bolts are now.

You can see the casting flaw real good in this pic. It is not as bad as it looks and is only about .040 deep.
http://i55.tinypic.com/2nla1bo.jpg

http://i54.tinypic.com/x3cmdw.jpg

http://i52.tinypic.com/21muc74.jpg

[Dirtcrasher]

Those little flaws will never harm it; Great work as usual!! :beer

[plastikosmd]

DC, in response to 'how often do u use a parting tool/cutoff tool'

More than any operation (maybe cept threading) do I curse my lathe. Mounting it upside down does help on the big lathe, the southbend does not have the correct T-slot top to do that. Anyway, I don’t use it much for 'parting' but it is great for making interrupted cuts, say in the middle of an object where u need to square the shoulders/ring groove etc. I probably use the parting tool almost as much as my typical cutting tool

[SWIGIN]

I agree, I use my parting tool a good bit....or would like to. I hope this makes things easier.

I HATE having to make a part, then sawzall it off then face it. I too use mine to mark shoulders or as a grooving tool.

[SWIGIN]

A member over at practicalmachinists.com held a little get together today for some of the members on that site. I had no idea he was a dealer in lathe parts or I would have gone with a fatter wallet but I made out OK.

I really wanted new jaws for my 5'' 3jaw chuck since it only has the ''backwards'' set. But he could not find any that fit my old chuck so he sold me a nice used 5'' with both sets of jaws and a set of soft jaws. Then I spied a tail stock crotch tool so he sold me that and the 5'' chuck for $40! I have seen the crotch tool go for that or more on ebay. Then after a few laps around his place I spotted a new looking 4 jaw chuck. Mine is shot and the jaws are very sloppy on the chuck body and it's almost unusable. I ask about it, he looks it over and says he'll take $75....so I jumped on it...lol

http://i55.tinypic.com/eu21ap.jpg

Practically new 6'' 4jaw, still had cosmoline (spelling?)on it. USA made Union chuck.
http://i51.tinypic.com/1679sad.jpg

crotch tool....I forget the real name...lol
http://i51.tinypic.com/20icbie.jpg

This is the 3 jaw chuck and the other jaws...1 set has never been used!
http://i55.tinypic.com/2ni0axc.jpg

[Dirtcrasher]

NICE!! 4 jaws do anything! Great find Wayne, this lathe has blown me away from day 1 till now..... You've really done a fantastic job!!

You've really done some great updates on it also!

I want and need a heavy 10 and need to sell my lathe minus the DC leadscrew drive, it's worth about 700$ just for the vari speed drive. All the old stuff is good, I just need a couple critical gears........... I have the complete set of thread gears with no damage, no teeth replaced either........

[SWIGIN]

Thank you sir

I made 2 chuck keys for my new chucks tonight after work. This was the first time I used a dividing head on a milling machine....HOLY CRAP THEY ARE SLICK!

[SWIGIN]

Since I'm bored and my electric just came back on after 10 hours or so I got some pics of the keys I made.

http://i52.tinypic.com/2zqsllv.jpg

Since this 5'' 3 jaw chuck has suck a fine scroll it takes forever to move the jaws very far I milled 3 flats on the handle end so I can use my drill to speed things up.
http://i54.tinypic.com/24x1578.jpg

[SWIGIN]

Made a thumb screw the other day for my rear tool post holder. The ajustment wedge seems to like to work it's way back till the tool falls out. This will hold it from backing up and let me adjust it in much better.


1'' head with 3/8'' x 24tpi made 100% only using my 89 year old lathe...lol
http://i52.tinypic.com/zkj2o5.jpg

[SWIGIN]

As of today, I have the ability to cut metric threads on my lathe! I found a few different gear setups that will give me 3 key metric thread pitches, 1.00, 1.25 and 1.50.

I am more then excited about this and can now easily make swing arm bolts or whatever I need to! I just need to make a keyed bushing for my compound gear so I can slide on my own gears to make my old lathe cut a metric thread.

[SWIGIN]

Today I started making the bushings needed for me to cut metric threads. I made 2 since I had 2 different designs in mind but I think I'm going with the one with the smaller hole in it. I just need to cut a 3/16'' wide key way into it and I'm ready to start cutting threads.
http://i54.tinypic.com/10zr8tw.jpg

I finally threw some paint on that rear tool post I made, and I made a new decal for it. The blue really looks bad in the pic but it's the same blue as everything else.

http://i55.tinypic.com/2uqf76x.jpg

In this pic you can see that knurled thumb screw I made earlier sticking out of the back of the tool post.
http://i51.tinypic.com/blk7r.jpg

[SWIGIN]

Today I finished my metric threading setup. Every thing works as it should and this will greatly open up what I can make for ATVs.

I had HRE weld me up a T nut while I was there milling my key way, this gets lightly snugged to the bushing. then the whole works gets bolted onto the lathe.

Everything laid out.
http://i55.tinypic.com/b4jfcy.jpg

Everything installed.
http://i55.tinypic.com/1q03o0.jpg

[SWIGIN]

Here are the first metric threads my 89 year old lathe has ever cut. This was a scrap piece of 15mm round stock left over from making front axles for a member on this site. These lathe cut threads look MUCH better then the die cut threads I was doing for him. The nut spins right on like it would on a factory bolt...maybe better!

http://i53.tinypic.com/30kd0mv.jpg

I guess it is time for me to throw my hat into the ring and offer up my services to guys needing swingarm bolts and front axles.

So if anyone wants or needs things like swingarm bolts or front axles made just send me a PM.

[blue27]

cool , I got ideas,lol

[SWIGIN]

I whipped up a flood coolant system this weekend. I used a $9 fountain/aquarium pump that has 5 flow speeds. This made it nice to dial in the flow I wanted. the pump is powered through a foot pedal switch which I like since I get to have my hands free.

http://i56.tinypic.com/2je72w3.jpg

http://i55.tinypic.com/11kffc4.jpg

This is an aluminum cap I mad to keep chips and bugs out of my coolant.
http://i54.tinypic.com/33c1zzr.jpg

This bracket was once on my quad racer back in the 90s. It was a rear brake caliper strut/bracket.
http://i51.tinypic.com/307yona.jpg

So far I really like it and it works well.

[SWIGIN]

Since I added the coolant system I found out I needed a splash guard. I made this at work today out of 1/8'' plexi and sandwiched it between 2 pieces of aluminum angle. Both angle pieces have a hole in them so I can move it front or back in each T slot.

http://i53.tinypic.com/ixqeyd.jpg

I might not be done with it, I wont know till I get to turn something but I might lower it.


Here is the main reason for the coolant system and splash guard.

http://i56.tinypic.com/24yo2mg.jpg

Thats a 4'' low carbon tube with 1/4'' wall. I need to turn 7 of these down to roughly 1/8'' wall for a job at work. So I get to play machinist on the clock...lol

The right end of that tube has an aluminum bushing in it that I made so my bull nose would work.

This pic shows the aluminum bushing I made so my bull nose live center would work.
http://i53.tinypic.com/21m6tmx.jpg

[SWIGIN]

Today was the day that I get to stay home and machine those 4'' tubes for a job at work. I got 4 of them done and already filled a trash can with chips....my first trash can filling in 1 sitting...lol

http://i56.tinypic.com/2l9m8eg.jpg

I still have 3 tubes to go...........................

[blue27]

thats prolly the most work you have ever done on the clock!!!lol

[SWIGIN]

.............................................

[SWIGIN]

I hated hand grinding threading tools so I finally bought a real threading tool. Set up time is faster and with a rub or two from a diamond file it is sharp and ready to go.

http://i52.tinypic.com/f2283l.jpg

http://i51.tinypic.com/avsdcl.jpg

http://i54.tinypic.com/nyd11k.jpg

The nicest thing about this tool other then the faster set up time is that if disaster would strike and you break a tip while threading, you can take the cutter wheel off and dress it and put it back on and it will be ready to cut with no change in set up!