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Dammit!
04-07-2009, 10:19 AM
I used to drive myself crazy with the "knock the bearings out with a hammer and punch" method. On a 250r for example, there's not a lot of play in that center collar so there's not much of a lip to get the punch on. I had a set that just didn't want to come out so I took it to the shop, ready to gladly pay someone a few bucks to save me the headache.

When I got there and explained what I was trying to do, the shop owner showed me an old school trick instead of charging me to do it. I've used this trick twice now and it worked perfectly both times.

First remove the bearing carrier from the swingarm.

Next, get a 2x4 ready.

Heat up the brake side of the carrier with a torch (I used a simple propane torch). You might hear a pop or two. This is the aluminum expanding and actually detaching from the bearing.

Once it's sufficiently heated, grab the carrier with a gloved hand, turn it over and slam it down on the 2x4 with a fair amount of force. If it's heated up enough, once or twice will usually do the trick.

Slamming it down after heating will allow the brake side bearing to easily move down to be flush with the edge of the carrier. This gives you plenty of space to get the punch in there and knock it the rest of the way out (it will come out extremely easy at that point).

Once the brake side is off, heat up the sprocket side and knock it out with a punch. This side will be a little more difficult. The area around it is much thicker so it will not expand as much. With the other bearing and the collar removed however, it's a hundred times easier than the old "beat on it until it comes out" method.

Russell 350X
04-07-2009, 06:10 PM
I have the same battle everytime I do these. Good thread!!

deathman53
04-07-2009, 07:00 PM
I like that way. I usually heat the center of the carrier, you will hear some pops. Once the grease in the carrier starts ouizing out, a tap with a hammer and punch will take it out easy. Next time I will bang it against a piece of wood. Also, I usually have the bearings in the freezer and once I get the old ones out, remove the bearings from the freezer and "drop" them in while the carrier is expanded. Saves some work.

JohnR.
04-07-2009, 07:23 PM
Great little trick. I actually have a puller I use that is supposed to be used to pull the bearings out of an auto trans case in a car but that method of yours sounds like the hot set up. Its probably especially good if you want to take the bearings out without destroying them. I have a set of good bearings in a T3 carrier and I'd like to glassbead the carrier but I didn't want to wreck the bearings taking them out. I'll give this method a try.

John

Micahdogg
04-08-2009, 05:16 PM
Glad I read this...I'll be trying it in a few days.

mohadib
08-07-2009, 12:21 PM
sorry for the silly question, looked in my manual to try to find out which piece is the bearing carrier, can't figure it out. Which item in this diagram is the carrier?

http://www.bikebandit.com/assets/schematics/Honda/H00280074.gif

Thanks

Yamada
08-07-2009, 12:43 PM
The 200x don't have a removable bearing carrier. The bearing carrier is welded to the swingarm. But it is not a problem to change the bearing. Just use a long drift (punch) and a hammer. Use a socket to seat the new bearing into the «carrier».

the otha tri-z
08-18-2009, 11:31 AM
So last night I put this method to the test on my TRI-Z. All I can say is that it worked great. They slid right on out like butta. Thanks for the tip.

Bob225
10-10-2009, 09:23 PM
Dammit your the man. I just did this 10 minuets ago and I was reluctant but all the pounding with hammer was getting me no where. Heating it worked really well. Thanks for the tip.:beer


Note. Watch the hot grease flinging onto your arms while pounding.

Micahdogg
10-10-2009, 10:14 PM
2nd that. As a follow up to my post above, I did try it and it worked really well heating up the carrier.

harryredtrike
10-11-2009, 10:39 AM
ive always used heat to expand the carrier,i also use a propane torch,dont want to much heat,i.e. make it cherry red.then when setting the new bearings,i always use wood.i have a nice piece of hard wood the exact diameter of the bearings,cut from a branch.

atv innovations
12-18-2009, 07:01 PM
I have a oven in my shop I use and it works great! The good thing about the oven is it is a contorlled heat.Some times I have to do up to 6 at a time I just put them in all at once at 400 degrees and in 15 min or so there ready.I use this for installling them also.After they cool I clean the housing and center tube usually running some emery cloth in the housing.Put a lite coat of grease on the outrer surface of the center tube.Reheat the carrier, drop one side in flip it over using a big socket or whatevery to hold the bearing in and then drop the center tube in and the other bearing. And heads up use a pair of welding gloves if you like your hands!!!!!

JohnR.
12-19-2009, 11:45 AM
Oven mitts work well too, just don't let your wife or girlfriend catch you. :lol:

John

Kintore
04-27-2010, 08:01 AM
Dude, Doug you are like a genie. I got 2 wishes left. You just saved me so much cursing and throwing of tools. My shop tools and walls thank you!

250rRoostmaster
07-21-2010, 10:10 AM
Great idea i will be trying it this weekend!!

toyota_guy83
06-28-2011, 05:10 PM
Hey guys, just how hot do you need to get the bearing carrier? Ive been sitting on the garage floor holding a blowtorch to the bearing carrier for my '85 Z for probably 15 or 20 minutes, and checking surface temp with a digital thermometer. Its up to 350 deg. F and I can hear grease boiling inside but the damn bearing wont budge no matter how hard I smash it into a block of wood. Do I just keep going? I dont want to damage anything

Micahdogg
06-28-2011, 05:21 PM
If you put heat to it for too long, you have probably heated the steel bearing up to where it has expanded with the aluminum carrier. I think a minute is plenty long to heat it up. You want the aluminum to expand, which will happen fairly quickly, but not the bearing inside.

I would let the whole thing cool back down and try again. This time just get it hot enough to where you can't touch it. You don't need 350 degrees, but just "hot."

toyota_guy83
06-28-2011, 06:43 PM
that didnt work


If you put heat to it for too long, you have probably heated the steel bearing up to where it has expanded with the aluminum carrier. I think a minute is plenty long to heat it up. You want the aluminum to expand, which will happen fairly quickly, but not the bearing inside.

I would let the whole thing cool back down and try again. This time just get it hot enough to where you can't touch it. You don't need 350 degrees, but just "hot."

Micahdogg
06-29-2011, 10:22 AM
Maybe she just extra stubborn? Prepare for war.

Mosh
06-29-2011, 10:34 AM
Uhh?
Tri-Z does not have an aluminum carrier. They are steel.
I have never needed to heat a carrier to remove or install bearings.

Not to sound mean, but maybe you are misunderstanding the procedure to replace these?
If so, I recomend you take the carrier to the machione shop and pay 30$ to have it done before something gets damaged.

Micahdogg
06-29-2011, 10:41 AM
That explains a lot. On the honda carriers this works like a charm, but if you are expanding a steel carrier and steel bearing at a similar rate, it's not doing much.

arlaunch
01-05-2017, 12:53 PM
I got one of those tusk bearing pulling collet sets. And it works like a charm.

Front hub bearings and engine case bearings. All the stuff.

Easy, professional and not that expensive.