I got my buffer at Oreiley's auto parts in metropolis il. for 29.99 I am sure there a store near you, they compete with AUTOZONE. Make sure the buffer you buy has the synthetic bonnet with it.
I got my buffer at Oreiley's auto parts in metropolis il. for 29.99 I am sure there a store near you, they compete with AUTOZONE. Make sure the buffer you buy has the synthetic bonnet with it.
If anyone has any questions on polishing plastic,feel free to pm me.
That buffer looks exactly like the one I got from Sears. Nice job on the polishing BTW. I need to do my short track tank on my R. Maybe I'll try your method this week.
John
1985 Eddie Sanders ATC330r
1986 Monstecate
1984 ATC70 (awaiting 125cc transplant)
1984 ATC125M
1986 GSXR 750 - Keepin' it old school!
1999 Arctic Cat 500 4x4 plow machine
1999 Arctic Cat Thundercat 1000 (lake lizard)
1996 Arctic Cat Jag 440 L/C (ditch banger)
Make sure you use the synthetic wool bonnet only, it will take a few hours of buffing but if you do it right it will look brand new without any swirls. The trick is to barely glide the bonnet across the tank at the last hour of bufffing alowing it to spin a faster speed and it will give it a mirror like swirl free shine. Just buff buff buff, the more you buff the better the shine. When finished it should look brand spankin new if done right.
Yeah, mine came in a bucket with a couple terry cloth, a couple blue, and one synthetic wool one. If I do it I have to do the whole 9 yards from wet sand up, there are some pitted/chalky spots that I buffed out years ago and are starting to return even though it spends its time out of the sun.
1985 Eddie Sanders ATC330r
1986 Monstecate
1984 ATC70 (awaiting 125cc transplant)
1984 ATC125M
1986 GSXR 750 - Keepin' it old school!
1999 Arctic Cat 500 4x4 plow machine
1999 Arctic Cat Thundercat 1000 (lake lizard)
1996 Arctic Cat Jag 440 L/C (ditch banger)
Wow, that is an awesome job. I'd love to make this an article on the main page in the Technical section, but I need all the information/pictures in the first post. If you can do that I'll be happy to set it up there for ya :
if you do it the way i did it will look new and stay that way.
Sure Billy ! I am absolutley confident that this process will solve problems with having to find discontinued hard to find or extinct OEM plastics.
Last edited by honda200x1987; 01-17-2010 at 11:48 PM.
Hey "tryker" hope this thread helps.
looks real good need pics of her all together
1985 ATC 250R. Team Red Trike
Did you use liquid as wet sandpaper, or sheets?
wet sand paper sheets and keep it wet,try to start with the highest grit you can like 1000 1500 or 2000 grit and keep it wet as you can. Here are some pictures i have attached, when you start to buff it will take a few hours to get the shine you need, the more you buff the shinier it gets and the key is to barley glide the buffing wheel at the last hour or 2.,,,,, It takes time but well worth it.
so using this method, how long should i spend on wet sanding and buffing for rear fender of 350X. like 4 hours each?
I would guess atleast fourto six hours but i'm a perfectionist. It just depends on how good you want it to look and how fast you work and how bad the fender is. There is no real way to tell how long it will take as it depends how bad the scratches are. The more you buff the better the shine and if you do it right it will look like new. The hard work will pay off, I recommend you practice on and old fender. One thing is clear ,,the buffer will NOT get the fender hot as long as you use the synthetic pad. Mine stayed cold the whole time.
ok, im gonna start prob tomorrow. thanks for the thread