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Thread: 250es siezed bolt help!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    536

    250es siezed bolt help!

    Hi All,
    Looking for a bit of advice on removing a bolt from an engine I've just bought as a replacement for my Br. All seemed good until I discovered the lower rear mounting bolt was still in situ!
    It would appear that they took the nut off one side but as the bolt wouldn't move in the casing they had cut the lug off the frame on the other side instead so the bolt is in place with a piece of frame attached.
    So. I've given it a week of re-applying WD40, and I'm thinking of using a bit of heat from an electric paint stripper as I suspect using a blowlamp would damage the ali casing and or the gasket.
    Anyone had any experience on this?
    Any help would be much appreciated.
    ATC 70, ATC 250es, 1/32 ATC 250R
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Newfoundland, Canada
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    915
    What a coincidence! I just broke the head off that very same bolt and I can't get it out. I hope someone on here can help!
    "Beauty is in the eye of the beerholder"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Minneapolis mn
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    I would heat it lightly with a torch... You definately want to be careful not to get too hot. I would try and weld a big nut onto that bolt if you can and rattle it loose with a air impact driver. There was a thread about mixing acetone with ATF, and it working really well as a penetrating lube...
    No trikes. Too old, too crippled. Unless I find one I can't live without!
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Bummer isn't it?!
    I'd considered an impact driver, but not an air wrench, good idea, thanks for that.
    What I was thinking is to put it in a press and apply some pressure before gently heating it, as I suspect heat + large will be expensive.
    I'm guessing there's a good chance I'm going to have the same problem getting the old engine out.
    ATC 70, ATC 250es, 1/32 ATC 250R
    1 person in 10 understands binary, the other one doesn't.

    Trikefest UK '08 survivor!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
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    Northeast
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    Do you mean an engine MOUNTING bolt?? Air s work fantastic...... Sometimes I grind or Dremel the bolt head off, snap the nut off and then deal with it.

    If the motor is being rebuilt, it is MUCH easier to get it out after you grind that crap off. You drill it on a mill or press it out, etc etc etc - piece of cake.......

    Even engine cases, I grind the head off, remove the case and that exposes a shaft I can grab and use MAPP gas on the aluminum. Oxy/acetylene scares me as I don't want to melt the aluminum, I don't have that pressure and mix down yet and staying under 1000 degrees can be difficult.
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Newfoundland, Canada
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    915
    Mine just wouldnt come out. The nut came off just fine, but when I tried to spin the bolt loose, the head broke. So now I have the threads exposed but the other side is flush with the frame mount. I am going to try putting a couple washers and the the nut back on and try to pull the broken bolt out with the nut. Hope it works
    "Beauty is in the eye of the beerholder"

  7. #7
    Woodsrider's Avatar
    Woodsrider is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    Like DC said, I would think an air would be slick for this situation....and WD-40 is pretty much useless as a penetrating fluid.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Hampshire U.K.
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    Yup, not impressed with WD-40 these days. We used to use something called 'Plus Gas', but can't get it anymore.
    Engine got as far as the workshop where the press, air wrench, and all the other toys are, just got to wait for the right time for extra hands for getting it onto the bench ect.. I'll let you know how we get on.
    DC, Yes, engine mounting bolt. I'm hoping not to have to strip this engine, it appears to be good so if it stays in one piece all the better!
    Rob.
    ATC 70, ATC 250es, 1/32 ATC 250R
    1 person in 10 understands binary, the other one doesn't.

    Trikefest UK '08 survivor!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
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    Northeast
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    I have no faith in any penetrating oils. I've read that brake fluid is an excellent penetrant.

    I myself, have fantastic luck with oxy/acetylene but I get scared with aluminum.

    The air has worked well for me numerous times that pounding and pounding with a huge did nothing too.

    Good luck with the air !
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Oh well, the heat + air eventually sheared the bolt off about a 1/4" in, so put it in the press and blocked up to support the casing, more heat, and at 5 tons the bolt compressed so much it expanded sideways cracked the tube!
    As yet, I've done no more and the bolt is still in it, so I don't know yet if the sump is damaged, so what I'm thinking now is to carefully cut the mount lenghthways to release any more tension on it, hopefully then it will be easier to remove the rest of the bolt, then sleeve what's left with a steel tube and mount it to the frame with a smaller bolt. Or, as it doesn't get worked too hard, forget that bolt alltogether!
    Suggestions anyone?
    Thanks, Rob.
    ATC 70, ATC 250es, 1/32 ATC 250R
    1 person in 10 understands binary, the other one doesn't.

    Trikefest UK '08 survivor!

  11. #11
    MPDano's Avatar
    MPDano is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Sheesh, I got the same issue right now. Rear lower engine mounting bolt. My Impact wouldn't budge it. Even tried putting the nut back on and using a sledge to break it free, nothing.

    Next is heat but did anyone get theirs to come out??

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Well I'm sorry to say that my last post on this thread was 7 years ago and the spare engine with the broken/seized bolt is still refusing to let go! What makes it worse is I now have a second spare ES engine - and - yes you guessed it bolt seized in place with two cut off frame lugs still in place.
    ATC 70, ATC 250es, 1/32 ATC 250R
    1 person in 10 understands binary, the other one doesn't.

    Trikefest UK '08 survivor!

  13. #13
    MPDano's Avatar
    MPDano is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Ha ha. Yeah, just tried heat and then put my impact to it. No budge. Took a sledge and nothing.

    Also, forgot to add that it has been soaking in PB Blaster too.

  14. #14
    MPDano's Avatar
    MPDano is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Went out and bought a better impact as my Craftsman only puts out 580 torque. Got an 800 and not even a hint of a budge.

    Wow, this is annoying

  15. #15
    MPDano's Avatar
    MPDano is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Success! Only way to get that bolt to spin was to notch the case all the way across it. I tried a little bit at a time but nothing. Also, in the interim of using my sledge to hit the bolt on the nut side, I smashed my finger and cracked the clutch cover.

    Oh well, such is life. Nothings ever easy.

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    Last edited by MPDano; 05-20-2017 at 11:45 PM.

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