Flourescent Light problems in the shop.

[Billy Golightly]

Any electricians or people familiar with flourescents? The shop is lined with them, I think I have about 10 double tube fixtures and there and from the time they were new about 3 of them didn't work. Its progressively gotten worse to now where I've got 1 that works reliably and a second one that is intermittent. I've changed bulbs and it doesn't make any difference. I guess its the ballasts, are there any brands that are better than others, whats the normal life on them, anything in particular that could be causing this?

[shortline10]

Billy , if your shop is anything like mine it gets really hot in the summer months and that really takes it toll on the ballast . I usually have to change at least 2 ballast a year in my shop . The double tube 8' ballast run about 40.00 bucks each for the good ones .
If you have an electrical supply house near get some commercial grade ones, the home depot ones like to humm and are cheap and crap out quick .

Any electricians or people familiar with flourescents? The shop is lined with them, I think I have about 10 double tube fixtures and there and from the time they were new about 3 of them didn't work. Its progressively gotten worse to now where I've got 1 that works reliably and a second one that is intermittent. I've changed bulbs and it doesn't make any difference. I guess its the ballasts, are there any brands that are better than others, whats the normal life on them, anything in particular that could be causing this?

[Billy Golightly]

Thanks for the reply Mike. I think when I bought the ones I put up, they were some new style. T3 or T5 or something or another? I remember them telling me they were different from the "old ones". Are they any better or worse about this and do they take different ballasts from the old ones? The ones I bought and put up (which was 8 about 2 years ago) all took the bulbs with the green band on the end.

[shortline10]

I believe the T is for the tube size . The old larger ones are a T12 and the smaller ones are a T8 I believe . I think the ballast are different but not to say they wont work LOL . Maybe someone else can shed some light .

[xsrock]

Old fluorescent tubes are T12 (approx. 1 1/4" in diameter). If you have the newer ones, they are probably T8 (approx. 1" in diameter). T8's use electronic ballasts. Are the fixtures 4' or 8' long? Are they standard or high output? For standard fixtures, usually both bulbs have to be in (and good) for either to come on. Depending on what you have, sometimes it is almost cheaper to buy a new fixture than it is a ballast. For the one that works intermittantly, it is probably bulbs, ballasts are either good or not, there is not really any in between.

[Billy Golightly]

Well I just bought a pack of 10 GE T8 ballasts off of ebay for the price of about 3 locally. I'll try that and see if it makes any difference. I know the ones in the carport at the house need fixed (if thats the problem) also. The ones in the shop are 8ft'ers.

[Billy Golightly]

Just an FYI The new ballasts did fix my problem and they were extremely economical compared to any of the local options I've looked at.

[Dirtcrasher]

Up here we have "cold weather ballasts" otherwise they just won't start or will flicker.

The 8' industrial lights seem to work well but I've seen allot of guys have bad luck with the 4' Home Depot fixtures that they chop the plug off and hardwire.

Glad you got them fixed, you can never have enough light! My 400Watt Metal Halide throws many lumens in the shop. 2 would take care of a 40x40 building........... Sometimes you can find them at auction. The most efficient is Low pressure sodium, then high pressure sodium and then metal halide; Which is why streetlights are redish (HPS) or a blue tint (MH).

[Bretmd94]

Up here we have "cold weather ballasts" otherwise they just won't start or will flicker.

The 8' industrial lights seem to work well but I've seen allot of guys have bad luck with the 4' Home Depot fixtures that they chop the plug off and hardwire.

Glad you got them fixed, you can never have enough light! My 400Watt Metal Halide throws many lumens in the shop. 2 would take care of a 40x40 building........... Sometimes you can find them at auction. The most efficient is Low pressure sodium, then high pressure sodium and then metal halide; Which is why streetlights are redish (HPS) or a blue tint (MH).

We have issues with the fluorescents not turning on during the winter months in my fathers shop. I will have to look into these cold weather ballasts.

[cattle-dog]

i have the cold weather lights in my garage and barn they work great

[beets442]

Mine burnt up after about 3 yrs, went to the new ones, they are alot brighter. I'll see if they hold up.

[Dirtcrasher]

Even the bulbs are sold as cool white and warm white, you want warm white. Just the opposite you would think.......

[200xman]

The only drawback to the cold weather ballasts is they really mess up your radio reception, at least mine do. Maybe it's just the Dewalt radio I'm using. Does this happen to anyone else?

[hublake]

I bought three of the cold weather flourescent 4' lights from Home Depot and they are just fine here in Northern Michigan.

[Jerm1179]

i work at a school that recently switched over to the new style flourescents about a year n a half ago. they are more "economical" to run. the bulbs cost 5 times as much and we are changing out ballasts like crazy...im not a fan at all. hopefully you guys have better luck!