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Thread: 250 SX / ES Owners...I need your help, please.....

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Florida
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    250 SX / ES Owners...I need your help, please.....

    Guys, Just picked-up an '85 250SX. I've been an owner of two 125M's since I was 12 and I know every nut & bolt on them, but I'm at a loss with this machine. I didn't get an owners manual with-it and I don't want to wait to do the basic maintenance.

    I read on a really old but incomplete thread here that there was a specific way that you had to go about changing the oil & filter that required someones help to properly hold the machine in a specific way? What is that all about??

    I've got an owners manual & and other parts on the way from Ebay, but I'm itching to get to work now. Thanks to old thread I was able to learn the part # for the filter, and the oils I'd need to use for the engine & rear-end.....I'm just scared to try, I've never heard of such a thing before....but I've also never owned a machine that had a filter of this type....my 125's had a simple screen. Thanks for your help!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Okauchee, WI
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    555
    Just make sure the oil filter goes in the smae way as you take it out. If you 'flip it end for end' it will starve the engine of oil. Easy to change.
    Look in the World Class Help section of Trykslvania for a manual, there should be one listed there for you to download. There's a thread with downloadable manuals for a ton of trikes.

    '85 Honda 200X
    '85 Honda Big Red 250es
    '85 Honda 250R
    '82 Honda ATC 70
    '87 LT500R Quadzilla


    BRUP!!!!!!!!

  3. #3
    Silverado's Avatar
    Silverado is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Whitby
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    331
    It is really easy to do.

    1) undo the screws
    2) Take off cover, Be careful, some oil will spill out.
    3) PAY SUPER CLOSE ATTENTION AS TO WHAT END FACES OUTWARDS ON THE OIL FILTER
    4) take out the oil filter
    5) take out the spring
    6) Clean everything, look at it, give it thumbs up
    7) insert spring
    8) INSERT NEW OIL FILTER THE CORRECT WAY
    9) Dip your finger in oil and put a little bit of oil around the rubber ring on the inside of the cover
    10) Put the cover back on
    11) Put the screws back in
    12) Finished


    As for changing the oil you do the following

    1) look underneath your machine
    2) Located the hole in the skid plate
    3) find a socket that fits the bolt
    4) stick a bucket under the bolt
    5) take out the bolt
    6) allow all the oil to come out. Gravity will do a fine job
    7) Put the bolt back in
    8) tighten it, but do not reef on it as this is a delicate part of the machine and strips really easily
    9) On the right side of the machine is a little plastic dip stick, Screw it out
    10) Pour in 2.1 Liters ( 2.2 US Quarts or 1.8 Imperial Quarts) of SAE 10W-40 Oil
    11) Screw the dip stick back in

    -Finished

    ** OPTIONAL **

    12) Dump used oil in neighbors garden



    Rear End Oil Change

    1) Find the bolt on the differential
    2) Look underneath it for a small one
    3) find a socket that fits the bolt
    4) stick a bucket under the bolt
    5) take out the bolt
    6) allow all the oil to come out. Gravity will do a fine job
    7) Put the bolt back in
    8) Now unscrew the bigger bolt
    9) Put in 100 Cubic Centimeters ( 3.4 US Ounces ) of Hypoid gear oil SAE #80
    10) put the bolt back in
    1985 250sx (Lemon)
    1985 250sx (Ruby)
    1985 250sx (Garnet)
    1985 200m (Hunter)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Florida
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    70
    Thanks guys.......I didn't think there was anything special, but the partial thread I was able to view really had me wondering.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    just below the bridge, Michigan
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    1,147
    Here's the link with a manual for your machine. Download it. Good stuff.

    http://www.oscarmayer.net/atc/manuals/

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Toronto Canada
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    697
    There is a spring between the oil filter and the oil filter cover - sometimes it's tricky to get that spring in position when you're putting the cover back on.

    A good tip I read on this site somewhere and I've been using ever since - dip the spring in a little bit of grease, then attach the spring to oil filter (grease will hold it in place long enough for you to center the cover and apply pressure to keep it in place).

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    just below the bridge, Michigan
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xhumeka View Post
    There is a spring between the oil filter and the oil filter cover - sometimes it's tricky to get that spring in position when you're putting the cover back on.

    A good tip I read on this site somewhere and I've been using ever since - dip the spring in a little bit of grease, then attach the spring to oil filter (grease will hold it in place long enough for you to center the cover and apply pressure to keep it in place).
    2nd the grease on the spring. When I first got mine that spring was really being a pain. I little dab of grease and it will stay in position while you put the filter and cap on.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Soutwestern PA
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    2,040
    Quote Originally Posted by 200XMichigan View Post
    2nd the grease on the spring. When I first got mine that spring was really being a pain. I little dab of grease and it will stay in position while you put the filter and cap on.
    I turn off the gas and lay it over on its side with the handlebar resting on the ground. From that position, the spring stays in place easily cause gravity works for you instead of against you.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Toronto Canada
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    697
    Quote Originally Posted by Xhumeka View Post
    There is a spring between the oil filter and the oil filter cover
    Crap - I was thinking of my dirtbike; for these machines the spring is actually between the oil filter and the casing. As you can see it's easy to put this in backwards by mistake, and the previous owner may in fact have had it reversed - here's the correct installation (from one of the pages of the manual 200XMichigan linked you):


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Pacific NW
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    4,255
    welcome.

    We all started with our first posts too.

    Afer making messes, I realized I was working with one of nature's finest, most stable TRIpods.

    I tip mine on it's side, like prop a back wheel up on a milk crate so the oil filter cover is staring at the sky. It drips less when I take it off, spring kinda balances in there and easier to see.

    And yes, check the torque specs for the drain plug and the differential cover is not as high as you'd think.

    The diff drain I think is an 8 or 10mm headed bolt that is off to the left and looks like any other bolt. It will drain faster with the fill cap removed.
    it's only 3 point 3 ounces so like 1/2 a coffee cup so don't be afraid to change it often and Definitely check it for water if you do puddles.

    I just read about engine oils and the vote lately is plain old valvoline VR1 because it has zinc which is important for the steel cams riding on aluminum. The thread was started 2 days ago but is still on the first page as 200x oil...

    and stay away from additives as you have a wet clutch that likes good old fashioned high quality oils changed frequently.

    Prepare to be hooked on suspension.

    I and 3 of my best rider friends rolled ours immediately after having hard tails for years.
    Last edited by tri again; 02-18-2011 at 01:01 PM.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    mifflinburg
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    525
    Picking one up also,
    Just wondering i heard that i should look at the color of the fluid inside driveshaft.. Does it matter?

    Also when should i change and check fluid in the driveshaft?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Pacific NW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Headsup View Post
    Picking one up also,
    Just wondering i heard that i should look at the color of the fluid inside driveshaft.. Does it matter?

    Also when should i change and check fluid in the driveshaft?
    Chocolate milk means water in the differential oil in this case.

    The WORST thing about those is they called them "maintain. free" so people never checked or changed oil in them
    plus it's less than 1/2 a coffee cup of oil.

    Apparently the rear axles don't seal well against water and that will kill them fast.

    The driveshaft is essentially dry and there are no grease fittings on the u joints that I know of.

    I'd pop the caps on the swing arms and spray a little something on the lock nuts in the event
    the swing arm bearings want attention.

    Yeah, check them (swing bearings) for slop and wobble too.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    mifflinburg
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    525
    Cool, Thanks again, I will be sure to give a fresh oil change in both engine and driveshaft before i go riding..

    So if it is choco millky is that water a problem that can be taken care of with a change?

    Also you saying they called them maintain free scares me a little.. i dont wanna see her broke down a week after i get her..

    why would some even say that? lol

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Pacific NW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Headsup View Post
    Cool, Thanks again, I will be sure to give a fresh oil change in both engine and driveshaft before i go riding..

    So if it is choco millky is that water a problem that can be taken care of with a change?

    Also you saying they called them maintain free scares me a little.. i dont wanna see her broke down a week after i get her..

    why would some even say that? lol
    Maintain free was in the orig sales brochures.

    Yup, Change the differential oil with the right stuff.
    80 wt HYPOID. and maybe change it a couple times if you're as neurotic as I am.
    or if you go thru a lot of water.

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