1986 Yamaha 225 Tri Moto

[350for350]

If you mean that you lift the lever up and the lever falls back down on it's own when you pull the engine over, that's what it's supposed to do. At least the ones on the two that I had always did this. If it didn't automatically fall down, the engine wouldn't have enough compression to start.

[Eberanth]

Good news bad news, re tested compression today and it went as high as 160, will re test again tmrw. bad news cleaned the carb tried to start and nothing, pull and e start did not want to go. pull start is very tough to turn over on about the third pull any thoughts? Also i sheared the nut off the oil drain cap because i decided to change the oil.... any suggestinos on how to get that bugger out now besides taking it to a machine shop? (edited for language)

[DSHOT59]

You need the decompression cable from the pull start to the head to work . My ytm 200 was a bear to pull after a few pulls too fixed the cable and now fires right up.

[El Camexican]

Good news bad news, re tested compression today and it went as high as 160, will re test again tmrw. bad news cleaned the carb tried to start and nothing, pull and e start did not want to go. pull start is very tough to turn over on about the third pull any thoughts? Also i sheared the nut off the oil drain cap because i decided to change the oil.... any suggestinos on how to get that bugger out now besides taking it to a machine shop? (edited for language)

You sheared the nut off that massive aluminum disk? Smack it lightly with a and try to grab it with a pair of Vice Grips to remove it and then replace it. I think Yamaha still sells them. Get a new O-ring too. The screen cage can be cleaned and reused. Make sure there's no burrs and don’t over tighten it or use sealant.

If you can’t get at it with Vise Grips you can try using a small chisel and to break it loose, just make sure not to damage yours cases.

Re: starting, do you have spark?

[Eberanth]

yup! totally snapped right off, took some doing but got her out, Thank you for all your help so far! ill have to get a photobucket account and post some pics of this poor neglected soul.

[Eberanth]

Any suggestions on how to go about that? - edit I see my problem, I have no decompression cable LOL

[350for350]

From my limited experience with them, the 225's didn't have a decomp cable. They used a manual decomp lever. You lift it up to start pulling the engine over. then it falls back down on it's own so that the engine will build compression and run. It looks like the one in this picture.You can see it at the right, center of the picture.

[El Camexican]

From my limited experience with them, the 225's didn't have a decomp cable. They used a manual decomp lever. You lift it up to start pulling the engine over. then it falls back down on it's own so that the engine will build compression and run. It looks like the one in this picture.You can see it at the right, center of the picture.

I think you’re right, the electric start models didn’t have the cable setup..

[ATC King]

Also i sheared the nut off the oil drain cap because i decided to change the oil.... any suggestinos on how to get that bugger out now besides taking it to a machine shop? (edited for language)

I've had that happen on a Honda too. The center just broke out.

On the Honda valve adjustment caps, drain plugs (185/200 series), and shaft final drives, they have a large 'nut' size which means using a large wrench. I think over the years of people tightening them too much, they eventually fracture. They have O-rings and don't require being that tight, don't hold anything together, and they're just a cap.

[Eberanth]

I think you’re right, the electric start models didn’t have the cable setup..

Yup! no wonder I couldn't find one anywhere. I am waiting on a new carb and the oil plug and gasket i ordered, hopefully once I get those items sorted she will fire up.

[Eberanth]

thanks to the tips on this site, the carb i ordered came and it fits! now just waiting on that oil plug.

[El Camexican]

thanks to the tips on this site, the carb i ordered came and it fits! now just waiting on that oil plug.

Put a little anti-seize on the threads and tighten it snug plus 1/8 of a turn and nothing more. Should last you forever, but grab a few extra o-rings. In theory they should be replaced every time you remove the plug to do an oil change.

[Eberanth]

Finally got that drain plug and thanks to your guys help it fired up after idle adjustment. I'm so pumped! Next issue is the wiring. It's a total disaster. Shut off does NOT work lol. Think I saw a link on some wiring diagrams here. Also when at speed the engine bogs hard. Only in gear though. I can rev the crap out of it in neutral with no bogging. Amy thoughts?

PS thanks again guys this is my first time getting something like this going and I'm so stoked I found this community.

[ps2fixer]

Didn't read the whole thread, but read the first page. On the topic of oil, make sure whatever you use, it's safe for wet clutches, atv/motorcycle oil. Generic automotive oil likely will not be good for the engine, mainly the clutches. The Yamaha branded oil is a safe bet, but pretty much anything with the proper certifications will be fine, the manual should state which certs it should have on the back of the oil jug.

[Eberanth]

Didn't read the whole thread, but read the first page. On the topic of oil, make sure whatever you use, it's safe for wet clutches, atv/motorcycle oil. Generic automotive oil likely will not be good for the engine, mainly the clutches. The Yamaha branded oil is a safe bet, but pretty much anything with the proper certifications will be fine, the manual should state which certs it should have on the back of the oil jug.

Was hoping to get some feed back on my question about bogging on WOT just above