Tri-Z Frankenshock #2 - BUILD THREAD!

[zmpolaristech]

I Just finished up my wifes Frankenshock for her Tri-Z.



This one actually has an Elka ZPS kit installed, wich consists of different valving and a ZPS spring set. We had this kit installed in a banshee shock that WAS mounted on her warrior, but the 2 banshee shocks that I had for parts... BOTH have junk shafts, one is just worn threw the chrome, and the other has a dremel mark in it from whoever tried to rebuild it last! SO, I needed a banshee shock to canibalize, and her's was the only one left in the garage. I did document this build much better than the last, so that anyone who wants to do this mod, can! If you are not sure what a Frankenshock is, check out this thread first: http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ve-shock-build
The following disassembly instructions apply to the Tri-Z, Banshee AND Warrior shocks.

First, SLOWLY crack loose the nitrogen fill plug on the bottom of the Banshee and Tri-Z reserviors, until they just start to hiss. Let them sit until ALL nitrogen gas has escaped, and then remove the nitrogen fill plug. Then, lock the banshee shock in a vise, and use a SHARP chisel (i just ruined an old chisel I had for this job) and work it in between the seal head cover and shock body until you can pop the cover off the body.



Next, use a zip tye to hold the seal head cover and bump stop up and out of the way. Now the FUN part, GET OUT THE DREMEL TOOL! A small carbide bit is required to grind a notch into the top of the oem seal head, in order to remove the retaining clip. This notch should be about 2mm deep, 10-12mm long, and tight against the retainer clip. It is a REAL PITA to get the clip out. You have to pry the clip into the notch you ground out, and get a hold of it with Some needle nose pliers or vice grips, and just pry it out from around the seal head. I couldn't get a focused picture of the notch I ground into the seal head with the shock assembled, so bear with me.
NOTE: When disassembling the banshee shock, BE VERY CAREFULL NOT TO HIT THE SHAFT WITH THE CARBIDE BIT! When disassembling the warrior shock, BE CAREFULL NOT TO HIT THE SHOCK BODY WITH THE CARBIDE BIT!



Once you have the top retainer clip worked out of the shock body, pull up on the shaft to pop the seal head out. The shaft won't come all the way out because there is a second retainer clip below the seal head (this is what makes these shocks "non serviceable" to the dealers). Pop out the lower clip and toss in the garbage along with the top one you destroyed earlier (a new clip comes with the new seal head). You can now remove the shaft assy from the shock. You will have to do this process for the doner banshee shock and the doner warrior shock. First pic is of a complete warrior shaft (top), and a disassembled banshee shaft (bottom). 2nd pic is of a complete banshee shaft that already has an aftermarket seal head on it (compare to the complete warrior shaft pic to see what parts are left out when using the aftermarket seal heads. its just a steel bowl shapes washer and a rubber bumper). lastly a pic of the 2 seal head clip grooves that yamaha uses in their shock bodies. (you don't reinstall the lower clip...EVER AGAIN! so the next service is MUCH simpler)



Now, lock the banshee shaft into a vise and zap the valving nut off with an impact gun (you may have to take a thread file to the end of the shock shaft after removing the nut, as they are peened over at the factory). Stick a zip tye into the end of the shaft and slide the shim stack, valve, and lower shim stack onto the zip tye and set the entire valving asside. Remove the oem seal head and internal bump stop assy and thow both in the garbage. The new seal head has an incorporated internal bump stop. Use a fine emery cloth to take the sharp, machined edge off the end of the shaft (if you don't, you WILL ruin the new seal head when installing). Clean the shaft real good, and coat with some suspension oil. Coat the new seal head with oil and install on the shaft with a steady pushing and twisting motion so you don't ruin the new seal. Now reinstall the valving assy and retaining nut on the shaft. USE RED LOCTITE ON THE RETAINING NUT!
NOTE: Race Tech now offers a rebound seperator valve, for about $50 bones!!. This is just a replacement nut that has a built in 1 way valve inside it. What this does, is stops the flow of oil through the shaft durring compession. This makes the shock even more adjustable, since the rebound adjustment circuit will no longer have ANY affect on the compression circuit. With a stock set-up, every time you crank a few clicks of rebound into it, your compression gets harder as well. I HAVE NOT TRIED ONE OF THESE YET. I plan on installing one on my Race Teched Frankenshock when I have it serviced next season.

Now, remove the reservior and hose from the oem Tri-Z shock. The reserviors come apart a lot like the shocks. A tap with a rubber on the top of the reservior will pop the adjustor portion of the reservoir into the body, so you can remove the clip, and disassemble the reservior. I used the plastic compression adjustor knob from the bashee shock on the Tri-Z reservior, basically just for asthetics.

You should now have: a banshee shaft assy with new seal head installed, an empty warrior shock body, and a disassembled Tri-Z reservior. NOW, you CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN!! Flush the reservoir line and adjustor assy, and Clean the warrior shock body. A good shock guy will treat a shock build just like an engine build, and if you want him to assemble your Frankenshock for a decent price, IT BETTER BE SPOTLESS! Take your pile of parts to an experienced shock builder and tell him to just assemble/bleed the shock, and charge to 150psi. Most shock guys will only need that much info to make it happen. AND THERE YOU HAVE IT! 1 FULLY adjustable, oem replacement, Tri-Z Frankenshock!

[Bryan Raffa]

wonder what would happen if you used the other bottom end... and have another dampener.. I was gonna try that.... I have a box full to play with ..

[zmpolaristech]

Race Tech also offers a conversion bladder kit for warrior shocks. Basically the IFP in the stock warrior reservior gets replaced with a bladder style reservior. This cuts down on moving parts in the shock, ultimately lowering shock temperatures and increasing responsiveness. The problem is, the warrior reservior is still non adjustable... but the internal components (IFP) are the same diameter as the Tri-Z and Banshee ... SO, maybe there is a chance that this kit could be made to work hooked to the adjustable Tri-Z reservior cap... Just a thought. I will probably try this on my next Frankenshock build, along with the rebound seperator nut.

[rotaxtwin]

I know this is an old thread but I was wondering what oil wound up being used when the shock was rebuilt? I am gathering parts to do this now and want to make sure I get it right the first time. Also how about a ride assessment from you guys that did this. Thanks in advance.