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Thread: The making of an ice racer #3 riVerRaT

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Blossvale NY
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    4,516
    Quote Originally Posted by riverrat View Post
    Yea, we go from here at my house.

    The foot pegs are billet, bought them off someone here a few weeks ago, not sure the brand.

    Had company over past few days, work got cut off, but I managed to go out there today and do a few things. Mounting the DC plastics shrouds and moving the rads back was a little harder than I thought it would be, and I guess I had a case of builders block, but I got one side almost done, the other side should go smooth. I blasted the front hub, and center cases, and I did some top secret motor work a hint about the motor size, I did not send out my cases to a machine shop.
    Got my rear caliper rebuild kit in the mail, and carbon kevlar brake pads. Also got a front caliper from cearserthethird, and a brake pedal that is powder coated silver vein which happens to match the lonestar swinger perfectly

    Bwaa ha ha ha ha ha!!! (Dr. Evil laugh!) But seriously, I'm pretty sure that narrows it down to 2 possible engines..... Unless you got something REAL sneaky up your sleeve..
    Trikes:
    '85 ATC 350R
    '85 ATC 250R
    '86 ATC 350X
    '85 ATC 350X
    '84 ATC 200ES Big Red
    '84 ATC 125M
    '85 ATC 110
    '85 ATC 70/110

    If you have bought from me or sold to me, please leave me feedback here>>> http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...+RIDE-RED+250r

  2. #62
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Orange County, NY !
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    I have lots of sneaky things up my sleeve, but in the end I always reveal it since we aren't THAT competitive here and usually share everything. Like I said before, at the end of the day I just want to be walking, and able to work and feed my family.

    Well, Sunday I did some work. Not today though, too much real work to do. I got the short track mounted with all the brackets. I will be making a thread in the mad scientist lare with step by step instructions. I am just going to redo the top brackets since a better idea popped in my head. It was critical how you mount it, and not that easy. The DC plastic shrouds are also not a perfect fit, and I think I have a way to make sure you get it right. I hope the whole motor and exhaust clear, I won't know until the motor is ready to go in unfortunately. The brackets have to be taken off again and blasted and painted. I also mounted the seat to the fender.

    It is very close to being a true roller, and then the motor goes back together, which if I don't need any other parts should go pretty quick.
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  3. #63
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Orange County, NY !
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    AND, I just picked up somethign real nice, a reworked shock by baldwin PEP shortened for flat track racing.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/110807238636...S:1123&vxp=mtr
    I am phsyched about this shock, my shock was a POS, this one should work even without the lowering link, and not let the trike bottom out.

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Oregon
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    2,471
    Keep up the good work!
    If you have Bought a item from me, Please leave me feedback
    If your buying a item from me check my feedback
    Click on link ~ http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ceaserthethird

  5. #65
    Big Mike's Avatar
    Big Mike is offline Part time collector of phallic shaped objects. Arm chair racerJust too addicted
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Hanson, MA
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    1,063
    I like how you are making the transition from red to black through the seat cover. Looking good man! Keep it up.
    Currently Own:
    1985 ATC 250sx
    1986 ATC 350x
    1986 Polaris Scrambler 250R/ES (P3)

    Projects/Parts machines:
    1980 ATC 185S

    My Feedback Thread: http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/124667-Feedback-for-Big-Mike?highlight=Feedback+for+Big+Mike

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Blossvale NY
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    Quote Originally Posted by riverrat View Post
    I have lots of sneaky things up my sleeve, but in the end I always reveal it since we aren't THAT competitive here and usually share everything. Like I said before, at the end of the day I just want to be walking, and able to work and feed my family.

    Well, Sunday I did some work. Not today though, too much real work to do. I got the short track mounted with all the brackets. I will be making a thread in the mad scientist lare with step by step instructions. I am just going to redo the top brackets since a better idea popped in my head. It was critical how you mount it, and not that easy. The DC plastic shrouds are also not a perfect fit, and I think I have a way to make sure you get it right. I hope the whole motor and exhaust clear, I won't know until the motor is ready to go in unfortunately. The brackets have to be taken off again and blasted and painted. I also mounted the seat to the fender.

    It is very close to being a true roller, and then the motor goes back together, which if I don't need any other parts should go pretty quick.
    That right there is a big part of the reason I am so excited to get into this! Looking great!
    Trikes:
    '85 ATC 350R
    '85 ATC 250R
    '86 ATC 350X
    '85 ATC 350X
    '84 ATC 200ES Big Red
    '84 ATC 125M
    '85 ATC 110
    '85 ATC 70/110

    If you have bought from me or sold to me, please leave me feedback here>>> http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...+RIDE-RED+250r

  7. #67
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Thanks guys. Yea the transition was the main part of the design. I always look at color schemes and I like to see a flow in the design. Since my options were limited for tank color, and wanting to be different, that's what I came up with.

    Well I did some more work tonight, disassembling the new front caliper I got (which was a b1tch) and cleaning it up, grinding the fins down, and installing the new pads, and anti-seize on the pads pins. Put the *test* front wheel on. Disassembled the radiator mounts, wire wheeled them and painted them. Next year I will powder coat a bunch more stuff, and send some other stuff out for polishing.

    Dam I took a picture, but it's not on my phone, oh well tomorrow hopefull I can make this thing a roller. Still got to clean up and transfer the wiring harness, and take apart the rear axle and carrier off the old one.

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Orange County, NY
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    1,772
    Just a heads up on the anti-sieze on the pins, its not good to use it especially on the pins where it comes into contact with rubber. Since it is petroleum based it will make the rubber swell and often cause the pins to bind. When working at the dealer I saw it many, many times when guys tried to do a nice job by putting grease or anti-sieze on them and it ended up wiping out a set of perfectly good pads. Also, over time it dries out and hangs stuff up. The correct stuff to use brake lubricant. Its often called Sil-Glyde and will do a great job and last a long time.

    John
    1985 Eddie Sanders ATC330r
    1986 Monstecate
    1984 ATC70 (awaiting 125cc transplant)
    1984 ATC125M
    1986 GSXR 750 - Keepin' it old school!
    1999 Arctic Cat 500 4x4 plow machine
    1999 Arctic Cat Thundercat 1000 (lake lizard)
    1996 Arctic Cat Jag 440 L/C (ditch banger)

  9. #69
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    I hear ya, the pins on the front caliper are a little different than the ones you see on a car. I know they have special lube for it. On the 250, there is no rubber, and the pins do not slide like the floating mechanism on a car caliper. The pads slide on the pins, but that doesn't get seized, and I don't have any anti-seize on that part. Just the threads of the pin, and where the pin enters the other side. Those brakes also don't get that hot compared to a car either, so the anti-seize shouldn't dry out and cook itself. I probably won't have to replace the pads for another 20 years anyway, haha.

    As far as the rest of the trike, with the SS hardware set I bought there is a note in large letters telling you to use anti-seize on all the SS bolts. Dis-similar metals react with each other and cause them to seize up. I am doing that as well as running a tap through every hole first. This is part of the reason why it is taking me so long, there was a few broken bolts, and a lot of seized bolts that I have to mess with.

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Orange County, NY
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    I thought I replied to this the other day but I guess not. I am not talking about the pins that hold the pads in place, I'm talking about the slide pins that the caliper moves back and forth on as the pads wear out. One sits entirely inside a rubber sock in the caliper (top one I believe) and the other just has rubber boots on the ends that cover where it goes through the caliper. If you use anything but silicone based grease on those you will have swelling of the rubber parts which will render them unable to make a tight seal to keep dirt and moisture out and it could possibly bind up the caliper so it won't float on its bracket. Just looking out for ya bud, I want that thing to last you a long time.
    1985 Eddie Sanders ATC330r
    1986 Monstecate
    1984 ATC70 (awaiting 125cc transplant)
    1984 ATC125M
    1986 GSXR 750 - Keepin' it old school!
    1999 Arctic Cat 500 4x4 plow machine
    1999 Arctic Cat Thundercat 1000 (lake lizard)
    1996 Arctic Cat Jag 440 L/C (ditch banger)

  11. #71
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Orange County, NY !
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnR. View Post
    Just looking out for ya bud, I want that thing to last you a long time.
    Don't ever change John, I think I mentioned this before, if it wasn't for yours and Chris's advice I wouldn't be where I am at now. I was never a car mechanic for a living, but I can do all my own repairs, and that is one of those that I learned about already, after messing with a ceased pin on one of my cars lol. Also if anyone is reading this, you should never use petroleum based products on any kind of rubber. Also in plumbing, there is plumbers grease, and silicone plumbers grease for the different types of o-rings and plumbing fittings, both are high-temp.

    I didn't take apart the slider part of the caliper because it was all in good shape and the rubber was not broken, so why bother fixing it? When I take the caliper off in the near future, I will get a rebuild kit, and have the front polished, then use the proper grease(silicone). Half the reason I started this thread is so people like you and others with all the experience can comment and give me ideas and suggestions, I am all for learning from others, since I got a few million years before I "know it all" Keep the advice coming, it is much appreciated.

    Well it seems that family duties and work are keeping me away from this thing. I received a lonestar dual row bearing carrier for the rear, but when I look inside I only see one bearing on each side? I think the bearing is thicker than a single row. I forgot what it looks like, and have to take my old carrier apart still. I was under the impression that there was two bearings in there, is it just a fatter bearing? BTW I got one for $75 off fleabay. I polished it tonight and installed it in the swingarm. I also removed the old wiring harness, cleaned it with wd-40, then re-taped it with one long piece of tape. I cleaned the rectifier, and installed the harness. I think all I have to do is install the axle, brake lines, and re-mount the rads, then she is ready for the motor. I feel like I am getting over a hump here.

  12. #72
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    New York
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    The double row bearing looks like one fat bearing, not two individual bearings.
    More pics please!

  13. #73
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Ok cool, that's what I got. I ordered some fresh bearings and sleeve from lonestar, and the little brake bracket stay button that was not included in my puschase. Well I haven't got much done, with the snow storm and emergency calls. My PEP shock came in the mail yesterday, just have to clean her up and install. From the looks of it there won't be any ice here on the main lake, so I hope to maybe take a ride up to NH and meet Eddie, let me get this thing done first before I make any plans.

    Taking apart my old bike there wasn't a part that wasn't ready for catastrophic failure pratically. I can't believe I was racing that thing. Even the rear bearings that were 3 years old were shot, one of them seems ceased. The bearing carrier had a big split in it.
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  14. #74
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Did some work tonight. Got the shock in. Anyone here ever put a TRX shock in an ATC? It wasn't exactly the same. Check out how low she sits with the adjustable link on it's highest setting.
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  15. #75
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Ugh, 3ww being down at the wrong time, lol. I started missing it. I hope Billy gets it all sorted out without too much effort, it's got to be a pia.

    Well I worked on it a lot this weekend, I did so much I can't even remember all that I did! lol.

    Tried to get the front brakes hooked up, but the screws were frozen on the front master, and I destroyed the master trying to get them out, so ebay to the rescue, waiting on that one.

    Ordered a billet block off plate for the rear caliper, billet case saver, spare rear master.

    Took me 4 hours to rebuild the rear caliper !@#$#@!, but I now have rear brakes. I didn't paint the caliper because I want to make sure it's going to work. One piston was ceased. I think the parking brake was grabbing a little too, so I was probably racing with the brakes on, lol. Carbon kevlar pads installed, and rebuild kit put in.

    I polished the radiator cap, rear brake reservoir, the hose clamps (yes he said hose clamps LOL), mounted the controls on the bars, new hand grips (black and red to match the scheme), I blasted and painted the hubs, and motor mounts aluminum color (will get powder coated at a later date) mounted the rads again after painting the brakets (will get those powder coated too eventually).

    I polished and mounted the PRM grab bar.

    The Lonestar swinger was missing some hardware, so I called Lonestar to get it. I ordered a TMdesign roller for the chain, and the caliper bracket stay button , apparently the stock one doesn't work. While on the phone with Lonestar, I was asking questions about their axle, and he offered me a deal. Said they are usually $450, and said he would give it to me for $400. I then asked about the anti-fade nut, he said they are normally $200, but there was a sale half off if you buy an axle. I told him I wasn't really prepared to spend that since I am pretty tapped out from all this, he then took another $50 off the axle, so you guessed it, I bought a brand new 2+2 Lonestar axle and anti-fade nut for $450 total. A smoking deal if you ask me. Gonna have to wait for the axles to come back from chrome, so I won't see it till next week. Oh, and ask for Heath if you call Lonestar ext 221 and tell him Anthony sent ya to get a good deal on an axle.

    I polished most of the clutch cover. I think I am just going to paint the water pump cover, and then look for a billet one later.

    Then tonight I cleaned off the bench (finally ) and started working on putting the motor together. I can almost taste it now. I hope I have everything I need to get the motor together, getting motor parts can take time. One seal or gasket can mess you up.
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