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Thread: 350X Petcock Rebuild Step-By-Step

  1. #1
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    350X Petcock Rebuild Step-By-Step

    I recently rebuilt my 350X petcock. I wanted to post the step-by-step instructions and parts required in case anyone else wanted a guide to follow. This is a repost of my original thread (from memory) which was a victim of the database crash, so it may not look exactly like it did the first time.

    Honda Parts Required:
    4-Hole Washer: 16955-HA2-005
    X-ring: 16963-HB9-005
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    Tools Required:
    Dremel with grinding wheel (or similar)
    Drill bit (#39) and then when that breaks and the store is out of more, just get a 3/32"
    3mm x 0.5 Tap
    1000-1500 wet/dry sandpaper
    Carb cleaner (I use Berryman's Carb dip in the gallon can)
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    Other Parts Required:
    M3x0.5 pitch screws, 10 mm long (x2) I used SS button head screws. They are nice and low profile and use an allen head.
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    Rebuild Steps:
    1. Carefully grind off the heads of the rivets holding the plate on the front of the petcock. Don't be too agressive, and try to stay off of the front plate.
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    2. Remove the front plate, followed by the flat washer, the wave washer, the lever, and then finally the old 4-hole washer. Take a look at the old washer next to the new washer.
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    3. Remove the old X-ring washer from the lever.
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    4. Now is the time to dump the metal parts (petcock body, lever, and front plate) into the carb dip carb cleaner to clean them all up. Once you're happy with the parts, take the lever and clean up the back side with a piece of wet/dry sandpaper (I used 1500). The back side of the lever is what seals against the 4-hole washer, so make sure it is smooth, clean, and polished (within reason). Mine was rough at first. The 1500 cleaned it right up. Be sure to wash off the lever really well when done.
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    5. Drill and tap the petcock body for the M3 screws. If you weren't too agressive in the grinding step (#1) you'll still have dimples in the center to help center the drill bit. Drill all the way through the body. Then tap the holes with the tap (always use oil with your taps). You could probably get away without tapping the holes, but you'd have to experiment with the proper size drill bit to use with whatever screws you are using. I like tapping the hole since it goes back togeher so nice. Again, wash this part really well to get rid of the oil and metal shavings.
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    6. Reassemble everything. Put the 4-hole washer into the body, follwed by the shut-off lever (with the X-ring installed), the wave washer, the flat washer, and finally the front plate. Use the screws to hold it all together.
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    Done!
    Last edited by wonderboy; 03-07-2012 at 09:09 PM. Reason: I can't spell
    - Frank

    1984 200ES Big Red
    1985 350X (x2)
    1986 350X
    1986 250SX
    1984 Auto-X
    1984 ATC70
    1985 ATC70

  2. #2
    andersonee4's Avatar
    andersonee4 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    Nice write up! Is there a reason for not drilling the rivets out, and re-riveting? or is this just your preference? Very nice pictorial

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    That's a really good question. I should have said "Rivets" (in double quotes). What honda did was to not actually use distinct sepparate rivets. The body of the petcock was cast with nubs that stuck out (the same dimeter as the holes in the front plate). When the entire getup was assembled, they mushroomed over the metal protruding past the front plate. I know there is a proper term for this, but I can't remember what it is. If you take a look at the second picture of step #1, you'll see the metal protrusions I'm talking about. These are actually all part of the body casting.
    - Frank

    1984 200ES Big Red
    1985 350X (x2)
    1986 350X
    1986 250SX
    1984 Auto-X
    1984 ATC70
    1985 ATC70

  4. #4
    andersonee4's Avatar
    andersonee4 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    Ahh.. Ok thank you for clearing that up, i would've tried to drill it out, and been wicked ticked.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    mn
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    I realize this is an old thread but why not just buy a new one? Do the aftermarket replacements not work well?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    Australia
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    Genuine is always better!
    1980 ATC 70 Needs Restoration
    1985 ATC 250es Fully Refurbed
    1986 ATC 350x Mint Original

  7. #7
    ctk is offline Just Too Addicted Arm chair racerJust too addicted
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    These are great. I have 3. Awesome job frank
    Chris

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    Hey, oldie thread for sure. I am a big fan of keeping the original parts on the machine. And typically, I feel like OEM parts just fit and function better than the aftermarket parts. Of course there are exceptions, but in this case, it only costs about $20 in parts to get the original in back to new condition. One step that you don't see in my original thread, but CTK has seen is that I bead-blast these as well so they truly look like new once done.
    - Frank

    1984 200ES Big Red
    1985 350X (x2)
    1986 350X
    1986 250SX
    1984 Auto-X
    1984 ATC70
    1985 ATC70

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    This should be a sticky

    Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    I'm glad you revived this. My Tri-z petcock leaks and Yamaha lists it as non rebuildable part. I've taken all 4 i own apart and am using the best 1 and it still leaks. These look like the exact parts i need both petcocks are Keihin so there's hope. I will order the parts and post my results.
    85 Tri-z Power valve on Inverts
    85 Tri-z Basket Case
    01 gsxr750 engine/Tri-z frame (long long way from complete)

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    It Works for the Tri-z. No more leaking cock.
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    85 Tri-z Power valve on Inverts
    85 Tri-z Basket Case
    01 gsxr750 engine/Tri-z frame (long long way from complete)

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    SE CA Dez in the sandbox
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    Thanks for the repost
    Have '85 350X-XR500 Hybrid,
    Had Nicholson framed: 90/110, 185s, Gen I 500, Gen II 500
    Had Bandito Framed 90
    Have Vey's Framed 90
    Have too many parts

  13. #13
    Ranvier is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Bump. Tried to go for a ride and had a big leak. Any luck with the aftermarket cheap replacements? I plan rebuilding oem but so many projects...

  14. #14
    Join Date
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    Carthage NY 250r rules
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    Bump incase anyone needs the part numbers and info.
    250r rules

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Speedgoat View Post
    I realize this is an old thread but why not just buy a new one? Do the aftermarket replacements not work well?
    This is an old thread and nobody will probably see this, but there's a really good reason not to use any of the aftermarket ones on ebay and elsewhere. The
    stock petcock has a spigot with about an 8.5mm outer diameter and the aftermarket ones about maybe 5 or 6mm diameter at most. I found one that was advertised
    to be 7mm, but that's far smaller than the stock one. On a stock machine that's just trail ridden that's probably not an issue, but in my case I'm running a 450 carb which
    is like 10mm larger than stock and has a huge gas line. I would prefer to use the 450 petcock to match but haven't decided which way to go with the tank mod to
    make it work, so using the stock one for now. Hope this helps someone down the line

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