Just bought a 1983 Honda Atc 200

[Big-B]

I was wondering how hard it is to take off the top end of the 3 wheeler to check pistons ect for either replacemnt, honing, or rebuilding. Give some of your experiences. i do have a tork wrench but it only goes up to 5lbs of pressure and the service manual says 7ft pounds. I am really nervous about doing things like that. I have never much worked on a motor. I am pretty mechanically sound on other things. I would like to do it myself but am not sure if I can. Approx. how long will it take and how much of a head ache?

If you have done anywork on the motor please reply all the details are welcome.
If I decide to to the rebuild myself I will post pictures and probably ask questions.

2nd note, My pull cable to start the 3 wheeler isn't winding back in. I think it is jammed. I can take the cover off what do I need to look for?

[yaegerb]

Someone else will have to comment on the recoil, but I will do my best for the top end.

You say you are mechanically sound so it shouldn't be too hard of a job for you.

1. Remove the engine from the frame (Disconnect, wires, hoses, chain)
2. I would design a box that your motor can sit on top of so it doesn't move during dis-assembly (take a look at my thread and you will see the type of box I used).
3. Remove the allen bolts and acorn nuts on your head
4. Take CDI/Cam Sprocket/Cam chain off
5. Remove rocker cover
6. Remove Cam
7. Unscrew the long bolt on the CDI side of case and Remove Head
8. Assess the situation and take some pictures for us to help when/if necessary

A good tip is to buy a box of ziplock baggies and seal like-parts together and then label. For example, when you take your CDI off, put all the components along with the bolts in one baggie.

Total time for you should be 3-4 hours. I have seen some guys do it in 45 minutes.

[Big-B]

Someone else will have to comment on the recoil, but I will do my best for the top end.

You say you are mechanically sound so it shouldn't be too hard of a job for you.

1. Remove the engine from the frame (Disconnect, wires, hoses, chain)
2. I would design a box that your motor can sit on top of so it doesn't move during dis-assembly (take a look at my thread and you will see the type of box I used).
3. Remove the allen bolts and acorn nuts on your head
4. Take CDI/Cam Sprocket/Cam chain off
5. Remove rocker cover
6. Remove Cam
7. Unscrew the long bolt on the CDI side of case and Remove Head
8. Assess the situation and take some pictures for us to help when/if necessary

A good tip is to buy a box of ziplock baggies and seal like-parts together and then label. For example, when you take your CDI off, put all the components along with the bolts in one baggie.

Total time for you should be 3-4 hours. I have seen some guys do it in 45 minutes.

Okay that sums it up for me doesn't sound to terrible... I will keep a close eye with the service manual.... The torques how imparative is that? is there a way to use my torque wrench?

Also will i need anything other than allen wrench and a good set of metric wrenches?

[yaegerb]

I typically don't use a torque wrench on these old motors. When I was young I thought a torque wrench would be good to use, but then quickly realized a 20-30 year old case strips out rather easily.

The one area I always re-torque are the allen heads and acorn nuts on the rocker cover when you re-assemble.

A good set of metric wrenches and your own man-power will suffice on all the other bolts.

[Big-B]

Any body have any ideas on the Crank recoil?

[JoeChevy]

got you covered big b, take of the 4 10mm bolts holding your crank together, then take off the 10mm nut holding the guts together, careful its spring loaded, make a note where everything goes, clean up any crud that may have accumulated over the years, sand any surface rust 600 grit sand paper is best you don't want to score any moving parts, make sure there's no tension on the cord then carefully pull the big round plastic piece holding the cord out, clean behind it, coil up the cord leaving about 8-9 inches of cord out, then pull the cord up through the little slot on the plastic piece holding the cord, place gently onto the coil spring, rotate clockwise until it drops into place while keeping the cord in that slot, once in place rotate counter clockwise two full turns then pull the cord out of the slot and let it spring back gently, pull the cord a couple times to make sure it recoils properly, if not pull cord through the slot again and rotate counter clockwise another full turn, once satisfied reassemble, there is a gasket but there's no need to buy a kit for it, pick up a tube of high temp liquid gasket, its re-usable, odds are you'll break the cord eventually, remember its been tugged on for almost 30 years, 1/4 inch nylon rope is good enough to replace it once it gets too short also a good idea to keep a spare spark plug/wrench, 3-4ft of nylon rope, a 10mm wrench and a pocket knife in the tool box just in case, never know when it'll come in handy, cheers