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Thread: 1981 YT125 Stud Duck Questions

  1. #1
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    1981 YT125 Stud Duck Questions

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ID:	153823Hey guys, I'm a long time member, first post.

    I recently entered the 3 wheel world with a 1981 yamaha YT125, called the Stud Duck. I've cleaned the carb, & am waiting on the air filter & the one bad gasket in the carb to arrive, in the mean time I am working on restoring the plastics & seeking advice.

    The carb was decently clean, but I was missing the ends of most of the hoses, I have an idea of where most went by the manual most graciously provided by MonroeMike, & have them labeled as where I understand them to go. I tried to upload pictures, but all my photos with my digital camera were too big of the carb, so I'll do my best to be very descriptive. The two nipples on the side of the carb, almost right beside where the sleeve butterfly is, mine had no hoses there. Are they simply air vents? Also, the one on the bottom of the bowl, is this also just a vent?

    Also, on the back of the lower motor, on the right side, there is a vent for a hose, that is almost completely broken off, my best guess is that this is a vent. Should a try to fix the hose fitting & run the hose to keep water out? The transmission oil had that milkshake look from water in the oil, but I don't know how long since it had last been changed & I believe the 3 wheeler lived outside & uncovered.

    When it comes to the autolube, what is the best way to disable it? I've read the posts that say rip it out & JB Weld it solid, but I like having the option to reinstall at some point if ever a Pebble Beach style show comes around, so I can be as factory spec as I can. I plan on running the mix 40:1, any objections or opinions? I've seen the posts that swear by 32:1, which is best?


    That is really the sum of my questions, except for does anyone know where a good aftermarket exhaust can be found for my Stud Duck? I've been searching the usual suspects to no avail.

    Anyone know the photo upload size cut off? I can try to doctor my carb pictures, but I need a goal.

    Thanks guys! I've done my best to use the search before a bonehead post, but if I missed one please be gentle!

    Troy

  2. #2
    fabiodriven's Avatar
    fabiodriven is offline Aspiring romance novel cover model, and the Official 3WW slayer of thieves and swindlers. Catch me if you can
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  3. #3
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    I noticed my wheels say TrailPros, duh.
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  4. #4
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    Welcome to forum, don't worry about the vent on the lower right part of the case it just a place for gas overflow from the carburetor to go, As for your carburetor am having trouble picturing what your describing, am sure if you do some searching you will find your answers on here.
    Last edited by old-yellow; 09-09-2012 at 01:40 PM.
    1982 Yamaha YT125 tri-moto - Boyesen power reeds, YT175 front suspension, Headlight guard.
    1982 Yamaha YT175 tri-moto - Running but ugly
    1984 Yamaha YT 60 tri-zinger - Boyesen power reeds



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  5. #5
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    The two black hose fittings are the one I have questions about. The one on the right is pointing right to the camera & the one on the left is pointing almost straight up, they can twist, but neither had a hose connected.

    Thanks again for the help guys!

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  6. #6
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    oh those are two breathers run two hoses and put the ends of the hoses up high, and as far as finding aftermarket exhaust that can be some what of a challenge, your best bet is two put a ad on here for one.
    1982 Yamaha YT125 tri-moto - Boyesen power reeds, YT175 front suspension, Headlight guard.
    1982 Yamaha YT175 tri-moto - Running but ugly
    1984 Yamaha YT 60 tri-zinger - Boyesen power reeds



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  7. #7
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    Got her running pretty good today! Got the old milkshake out of the trans with some ATF, and some new oil put in. Everything worked like a charm, except I have a busted seal somewhere in the exhaust side letting the oil out the exhaust. I really don't plan on splitting the case anytime soon, & obviously this is not ideal, but other than watching the trans oil level, is there anything else I should expect? My trans case says 750 ml, but when I pour in with the fill level bolt out, the oil almost immediately runs out of the fill level bolt hole, should I measure out 750 ml & pour in regardless of the oil full level? I do have a silly question, I got a small inline gas filter from AutoZone but the thing didn't have instructions. I'm assuming that the filter goes this way, so you can see the trash on the outside of the filter & know when to change, but once I put it on the carb poured gas out of the bowl overflow like no tomorrow. I believe the carb is clean, but going to clean again tomorrow regardless, & there has been clean gas going in the whole time, the filter was just cheap insurance.

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  8. #8
    Howdy's Avatar
    Howdy is offline Putting Priorities in Order, Busier than ever. Catch me if you can
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    That is how I would run the filter.
    The Stud Duck was added buy someone who wanted to customize it.
    If you need some good plastics let me know. I know I have a nice rear fender. and I would love to find it a new home. LOL
    Howdy

  9. #9
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    you have the filter the right way as far as the oil i fill mine until i see oil flow out the lower bolt of the trans cover. here's a link to a manual http://www.oscarmayer.net/atc/manual...rvice-data.pdf
    1982 Yamaha YT125 tri-moto - Boyesen power reeds, YT175 front suspension, Headlight guard.
    1982 Yamaha YT175 tri-moto - Running but ugly
    1984 Yamaha YT 60 tri-zinger - Boyesen power reeds



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  10. #10
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    the manual will also allow you to set the float in the carb, any pics of the exhaust leak your talking about, how about pics of it cleaned up and looking good?
    Last edited by old-yellow; 11-20-2012 at 11:47 PM.
    1982 Yamaha YT125 tri-moto - Boyesen power reeds, YT175 front suspension, Headlight guard.
    1982 Yamaha YT175 tri-moto - Running but ugly
    1984 Yamaha YT 60 tri-zinger - Boyesen power reeds



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  11. #11
    fabiodriven's Avatar
    fabiodriven is offline Aspiring romance novel cover model, and the Official 3WW slayer of thieves and swindlers. Catch me if you can
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    I'll never understand why it's almost everyone's first move to disable the oil injection.

    I'd like to see a pic of this oil leak as well. You've got me a bit confused on that one.

    The oil may be blowing out of the level check-hole before it has a chance to settle into the rest of the transmission. I'd fill it from empty with 750ml and let it sit for a bit before checking it again.

    If gas is pouring out of your carb, tap the bowl with the handle of a screwdriver to get the floats working again.

  12. #12
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    Those were 2 questions, for the trans oil fill level, I'll pour the oil in & let it settle longer before checking the fill level with the bolt. As far as the oil leak thru the exhaust, here's a picture of it, this was before my axle bearings came in, so its an older picture where the bike had just been idling & ran maybe 2 minutes. I didn't take any picture of the oil leak after I had gotten it up to temperature because I had to load up & get home quick. You can see the oil drip on the concrete below the exhaust.

    Thanks Howdy for the offer on the rear fenders, I've stripped the fenders & am putting the finishing touches on the polish job. Right now I'm going back & getting the spots I was to impatient enough to get out up to my standard the first time! All that wet sanding has taught me patience if nothing else! I did have to get a new seat pan, which is painted & ready to go, all I need there is a new seat foam & a seat cover, & a new tail light now, my other one got busted somehow while I was riding Tuesday.

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  13. #13
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    hows the stud duck coming along?
    1982 Yamaha YT125 tri-moto - Boyesen power reeds, YT175 front suspension, Headlight guard.
    1982 Yamaha YT175 tri-moto - Running but ugly
    1984 Yamaha YT 60 tri-zinger - Boyesen power reeds



    My feedback.
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ght=old-yellow
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  14. #14
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    Here's a few pictures of my plastics & seat pan. I've still got to put the finishing touches on the polishing job on the front fender & headlight cover, but the rear fenders turned out good. I've got the gas tank cover at work getting wet sanded when the time is right, I've still got to put the black stripes on it. Everything is basically ready, I'm just trying to decide if I want to get the oil out of the tailpipe problem solved. I've been talking to a coworker who used to be into dirt bikes & he knows a guy that works on the motors, but at $35 an hour, I don't really want to be into this little machine too much. I believe that since I'm getting 90 psi of compressions if I open up the motor, I may as well do a rebuild, but I'd rather get the 250R running. So far I'm only in $100 for cables, the seat pan, & all the little odd & ends. The oil leak is making the spark plugs foul every time its running it seems.

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  15. #15
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    That fuel filter picture just popped in, oops. That's also what the spark plug looks like after only about 15 minutes of running, dripping with oil.

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