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Thread: How to reproduce parts.

  1. #1
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    How to reproduce parts.

    There are several of us board members who reproduce parts for our trikes.
    Another member uses some of the process I am about to link you all up with to build fantastic scale model tractors (he shows them off in open forum from time to time).
    I am sure those folks, as well as myself, are willing to share their knowledge and experiences to help you along so don't hesitate to ask for input.
    This thread should NOT be used for "why don't you make" or "can YOU make" so lets not let it go down that road please. This thread is to encourage those with the desire to make stuff, no matter what that stuff is so long as it is leagle + with in social moral standards.
    I got my start at making parts when I needed a Tecate intake boot 45 months ago. The Mrs. + I are now actively making a little over 20 different trike related items.
    If you have a idea to reproduce a item, make tee-totally new product, fix a broken what ever,,,, many different applications can be found with just these different folks I deal with on a regular basis.
    Seat foam, I can NOT believe, to the best of my knowledge at least, there is not ONE person making new seat foams for our trikes (hint hint hint )
    Anyways, go to these sites, look them over, call them for a free catalog
    (you will find those catalogs extremely valuable sources of information and refer to them often like a manual)
    4 links to where the Mrs. + I buy from but certainly many more companies out there (but probably buy from these folks and re-market under their name)
    I highly suggest to check out the "how too" vidios and/or mold making vidios first to get you on the right tract in the process.
    http://www.alumilite.com/
    http://www.bjbenterprises.com/
    http://www.polytek.com/
    http://www.smooth-on.com/

    Got something in mind of making (?) please share it here !
    The Mrs. + myself newest product is a quad part (but still a Tecate). KIPS governor gear for the 87/88 Tecate quad, long out of production and rare,,,, well used to be rare
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    Last edited by jeswinehart; 11-25-2012 at 06:48 PM.

  2. #2
    sixpackrt's Avatar
    sixpackrt is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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  3. #3
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    Nice link ! unless I missed, no 86/87 250r, 350X foams, ain't checked for Tecate or Tri-Z yet

  4. #4
    sixpackrt's Avatar
    sixpackrt is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeswinehart View Post
    Nice link ! unless I missed, no 86/87 250r, 350X foams, ain't checked for Tecate or Tri-Z yet
    I only seen honda products. I would like to see some made for the tecate.

  5. #5
    Mosh is offline I'm the one with all the 2 stroke around here! The day begins with 3WW
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    Hi-flite is still making about 90% of all trike foams.

    ESR is finishing final production on 85-89R cases.
    Here is where my long useless list of stuff nobody cares about should go...


    Proudly NOT a member of

    "Team on the Teat"

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by hatc200x1 View Post
    Have you guys thought of making a left case for the 250r's?
    I believe cases are in production from an aftermarket company. not having a 250r I havn't read much into it.I'm sure someone who cares more than I do could put a link up somewhere for you or pm it yo you. I think john was pretty clear when he said this is not a why don't or could you thread.

  7. #7
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    Thanks for posting this info and links John! I've always wanted to try reproducing some impossible to find Cagiva parts. One being the intake of course. I have a NOS intake that I can use for the mold. Have you ever made any soft rubber grommets?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrickyDickII View Post
    Thanks for posting this info and links John! I've always wanted to try reproducing some impossible to find Cagiva parts. One being the intake of course. I have a NOS intake that I can use for the mold. Have you ever made any soft rubber grommets?
    You are welcome Dick ! Yes, i have made rubber parts, as well as some of the other repro guys.
    On using a rubber part as your pattern peice to copy, you will need what is a "Tin cure" silocone mold rubber. NOT platnuoum cure. The mold rubber will not cure out against most rubber products.
    I will not tell you how many hundreds of dollars, wasted time that little goof has cost me.
    In order to make intake boots, get one of your old junk ones and remove all the rubber from the metal mounting plate.
    At that point you can make mold of the metal part to pull face plate parts from or to take somewhere and have them cut out for you.
    You will need them to use as a insert for the mold you will make from your remaining NOS intake boot.
    When looking at either plastic or rubber resins, this is always true no m,atter where you purchase.
    Shore hardness what ever rubber will be represented by the letter A
    Plastic resins are always represented by the letter D.
    For instance, I use a shore 70 A hardness rurathane resin mix from BJB that has a fairly long cup time (so I do NOT need to be in a big hurry to pour before it sets up)

  9. #9
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    The intake info is great.I would like to learn to do this. Id like to do aircooled 250r and 250and 350 odyssey intakes.
    250r rules

  10. #10
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    Yeah, I am excited to see some interest in you guys making STUFF, that is why I started this post in the first place
    I may very well need 83/84 R boot someday or even any of the other parts you folks may have a idea on making !
    I know I went thru above carb boot process very quickly simply because I was at work and had to get back to those choirs (plus work inter-net is,,, well not the best at all).
    I have about 2 days of evening work to attend too getting parts done + out the door then I will post up some detailed process pics,description and molds.
    Believe me, I sure learned a lot by the seat of my pants so to speak and spanked my own arse several times by not doing it right. If this posting can help avert that for any one else, I am all about that for sure.
    Give me a couple of days and I will do up "mold" talk. In the mean time I highly suggest you call above links and get some catologs coming your way.

  11. #11
    fire1 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeswinehart View Post
    Yeah, I am excited to see some interest in you guys making STUFF, that is why I started this post in the first place
    I may very well need 83/84 R boot someday or even any of the other parts you folks may have a idea on making !
    I know I went thru above carb boot process very quickly simply because I was at work and had to get back to those choirs (plus work inter-net is,,, well not the best at all).
    I have about 2 days of evening work to attend too getting parts done + out the door then I will post up some detailed process pics,description and molds.
    Believe me, I sure learned a lot by the seat of my pants so to speak and spanked my own arse several times by not doing it right. If this posting can help avert that for any one else, I am all about that for sure.
    Give me a couple of days and I will do up "mold" talk. In the mean time I highly suggest you call above links and get some catologs coming your way.
    Thanks for sharing the info and your talents. I would like to give it a shot at reproducing some parts. I look forward to more information.

  12. #12
    volfan537240 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    This thread is gonna be awesome. Thanks for sharing this info.
    85 tri-z (in pieces)
    421 cub banshee

  13. #13
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    There is a excellent message to be learned in this posting.
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...advice-welcome

    Research what you are thinking of making to make darn sure it is really not available.

  14. #14
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    Andy, sorry got your name wrong in above post

    Quote Originally Posted by TrickyDickII View Post
    Thanks for posting this info and links John! I've always wanted to try reproducing some impossible to find Cagiva parts. One being the intake of course. I have a NOS intake that I can use for the mold. Have you ever made any soft rubber grommets?
    Andy, this is how I made our intake boot molds. Like I said before, you will need a trashed one so you can remove the metal face plate.
    You will have 2 options for the face plate that you will need to make the intake boot.
    1- you can make a mold of the face plate like I done and simply make your own.
    *** I used a atomized alu powder and Alumilite resin < (that cures way to fast for my liking and did not allow me to vacume out air after mixing resulting quite often in air bubble entrapment thus a potential weak part)
    2- have the face plates cut < ( I have them laser cut from 1/4 inch alu for 6 dollars each when I order up 50 at a time)
    *** I now know with different resins I can now make my own face plates that will hold up with no air bubble entrapment because I will have time to vacume out of resin. I may go back to that way since it is a heck of a lot cheaper to make them then buy them ***
    How ever you get your inserts (face plate) done you can them "clay up" your nice intake boot to make mold.
    *** I won't go any deeper into how to make mold or the claying up process since it is exsplained wayyy better in those catologs then I could ever type out here but those are terms you will read and hear reffered too***
    Once you get your boot mold completed, you will put the insert in it, rubber band together and pour your resin mix. After the recomemded cure time of the urathane resin (rubber) (shore hardness of ??? something A) (I use shore 70A from BJB for our intake boots).
    All my molds started as 2 piece squish molds. As my exspeianced has increased, I turned many into 2 piece pour molds for much easier use and much higher quilty product.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  15. #15
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    More info

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ID:	158651i want to try and explain some of the difference in the platinum and tin cure mold silicone since I had trouble understanding it and that kind of mistake is both expensive and discouraging right off the start.

    Tin cure will cure in anything. It has virtually no inhibitions as to what it cures in. You can use it to make a mold of darn near anything. The down fall IMO is the longevity of them, they do hold up well for extended production runs or at least they don't for me. The correct term to use is library life or shelf life.
    Platinum cure will NOT cure out against old jap rubber. Generally a higher shore hardness and will perform for years if taken care of properly (mold released used each and every time when pouring a part, stored properly (rubbed down with food grade silicone oil). My first intake boot mold is 45 months old and will still perform as advertised but simply too stiff to do a run of intake boots. It is platinum cure and I did not know how to take care of a mold for the first 2 years of doing this, I just put it back on the shelf when done with - wrong.

    So when I needed to make molds last year I was fortunate enough to be able to borrow the 2 different model years of Tecate trike, both brand new oem never mounted in the bag.
    I bit the bullet and doubled my mold cost by first claying up both of those boots and first using tin cure (because platinum will not cure out against old Jap rubber) to make the pink molds.
    Having the pink molds made that produce a extremely fine detail mold, I used a ultra high density shore 90D hardness 2 part resin to make those 2 white "master" intake boots. They are hard as a rock, weight 5 times what a regular intake boot weigh and exact replicas of the oem originals.
    You can see the laser cut inserts I used (see above post about those)
    I figured I would never get that lucky to be able to borrow 2 brand new intake boots. Now I won't need to ask. I have them in "master" form.
    I took the master pattern pieces and clyed them up and since the platinum silicone would cure out against the material I chose to make those masters, I was able to make 2 really fine production platinum molds (blue in color).
    I sure hope this is in simple enough terms for all to understand, it do sound rather overwhelming but in a step by step approach it is very do-able by any one.

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