Barn find!

[RubberSalt]

I figured it was a close second, unfortunately. The part is bigger than the sand paper. but i can make it work.

[JasonB]

sanding jb weld is a pain in the d!ck. srs. I did some work to a 250sx tank in 2004 when i first got into trikes and spent probably 3 hours sanding and filling o a tank to make it look right. what a joke ahahahahahaah

jb weld is tough to sand down, take your time and make sure you dont go through the case or cause thing spots since the jb weld is alot harder than the case material. I would suggest picking up some 1inch dowels at lowes and some small pieces of scrap wood to wrap different grits of sand paper around. prob start iwth something hardcore like 100 grit and work your way up in steps. who knows make it pretty

[Dirtcrasher]

IDT you will ever "lap" those cases.

The marks are from some MORON who split the case with a screwdriver.

Like Fabio said, you may be better off building up those hack marks with JB weld or other epoxy.

I would use a dremel and make some x's or small cuts in there to help the JB have something to bite into.

This is your chance to repair it and I would make it a priority to repair it while it's apart.....

[RubberSalt]

I've began lapping. So far i've got most of the ugly out. Using 600 grit (time consuming but smooth!).

There is only 1 spot that actualy worries me, its where it leaked originally, about halfway through the sealing surface now.

I'm going to follow the suggested advice here. Fill spots with JB weld, smooth down. Otherwise it will be here 6 decades. What grit should I finish these with? 600? 1000? 1500

[RubberSalt]

I filled the spots with JB weld. Worked it in each spot, then used a hard plastic stretch edge to wipe excess off. 24 hours ill lap it som more and make sure i get into the JB with the lapping. Ill know it's good then.

[RubberSalt]

Jb weld +lapping = great idea

After a little lapping, you can't even feel the pits, even with a fingernail

Now as I wait for bearings to show up... I'm going to think of a neat paint setup. Definitely going red and black.

So far I have this idea.
Bottom end is red...
Jug is black, black case bolts, black water pump, and black stator cover. Black cylinder head nuts, black reed cage(outside parameter)
Head is red, Red cylinder nuts, Red water spigot(with black bolts!)

[Dirtcrasher]

Fantastic

[RubberSalt]

I have made so many ugly ass things that worked but ugly. For some reason i feel like this Tecate needs to be pretty lol

[Dirtcrasher]

^ Just like girlfriends

[RubberSalt]

LOL

SO TRUE

[RubberSalt]

I had the crnak inspected. Its true to .001 thousands. The rod is about half life.

Seal installation metheod, grease case and seal. Freeze, drop into case, press in with wooden block. - done!

Bearing installation metheod. Grease case and bearings - Freeze bearing drop in case half. Right side. Done! left side - Phone call at 12:34 am (this can't be good) bearing is now half way in.. at an angle - crap!! After pressing it that way, ill say i regret it. It has an ever so slight hic up when turning down. It will run, not enough to be a worry, just something to be noted.

Ended up making a press with a bolt and pressing the high end down. Then ing an aluminum block on the high end to straighten it out.

Crank installation is on hold. I will be sourcing much longer 6 x 1.25 bolts. My brackets and chunks of aluminum will not allow for a puller/press to press the crank in. I need to raise my blocks above the crank webs for this to work properly.

I will be rebuilding later ths summer with a new rod. and apparently, new bearings.

[TecateDan]

More info please

My new design consist of 3 coils. I have a feeling i'm going to leaving that 80 watts in the dust

Going to run a voltage regulator off a KLT200 with a small sealed battery.

Attachment 161489Attachment 161490

[RubberSalt]

More info please

Instead of the single coil for lighting output, I'm going to use 3. I managed to re-wrap a single coil with 45% more windings. This will allow a higher voltage and the same current. Then we add the other 2 coils on the side. They will give this roughly 450-500 windings vs the stock 176. By separating the coils, i can allow a higher amperage also (if the magnates can induce 1). The regulator will rectify the voltage to DC and then the battery will regulate the 12v.


More windings= high voltage. bigger wire ALLOWS for more amperage but does not necessarily produce more.

Watts= Volts x Amps.

[RubberSalt]

I've got the crank installed and the cases back together. After assembly, I had a very hard time cranking the engine over (without the jug/piston installed).

Turns out the book needs followed. Hammer the cases together.

Took a block of wood, placed it on the case next to the crank and hammed it, repeated to all sides and other spots of the case near the transmission.
It cranks over 10 times easier now still difficult. Now the motor is in gear and my gear shifter is apparently stripped. I'm going to cut the gap the bolt goes though pen a little more, use a grade 8 bolt to clamp it, then weld it when positioned where I want it.

I made sure it cycled the gears prior to assembly; I just left it in gear
I made need to the clutch side around the crank to seat it also. Either way, I'm going back into the clutch side to finish tightening bolts/ installing 1 more spring.

[RubberSalt]

On a side note. I've started my slow build of the KX250 e85 monster top end

I've got the jug. I'm going to do some porting on it. I've got a complete KX250 ignition. (I don't think it's any different). And I've got a head being cut for about 230psi comp.

The jug needs recoated and a matching piston. I want a new rod on a crank before I run that build. I'll be doing a custom pipe for it.