225dx No Power...

[splangeland]

Ok so,I managed to make myself look an @$$ here. I have no idea what I did when I checked my valves last time. I could swear up and down they were both within spec's. When I checked them last night they were both set too tight. I could not put the smallest feeler in either of them. I set them both to .001" bigger than the minimum allowed. Anyways, I still get popping when I loose power but it's not a constant popping now. My muffler just came in the mail today. Looks great! I am also bidding on NOS CDI. One thing realized last night was my CDI was hanging right above my exhaust where the muffler and head pipe are broken so there's a gap. Could too much heat have just maybe cooked my CDI? Also, Where is my CDI supposed to mount? I see that the rubber piece around it is called the mount so I should think it should mount somewhere not just swing freely.

[El Camexican]

Please tell me what thickness of feeler gauge now fits in on each side.

As far as the CDI, yea, nothing electronic likes heat, so get it away from the pipe. That rubber collar should have a slot that pushes onto a thin metal tag welded to the frame near where the backbone of the frame ends above the carb on the right hand side. If it doesn’t or something is broke just tie wrap it to the frame away from the pipe.

Best check your compression again and make sure you didn’t burn a valve during this testing.

[barnett468]

Hello Splangeland

My only suggestion for the moment is do the obvious. new pipe, locate CDI in correct position using proper mounting items and try it again. I think you partially answered your own question which I am unable to do at the moment various reasons. Maybe if you are EXTREMELY lucky your CDI may still work properly once removed from the hot ex coming out of your broken head pipe and if you fix it fat and it does cure the problem you will save yourself from having to needlessly buy the other one. Setting your valves to the MINIMUM clearance is NOT what was suggested.

[barnett468]

Hello El Camexican


Sorry to simulate your comment below, I was typing in the window before you posted so I did not see it until after I pushed the "post" button. Unfortunately I was unable to reply directly to his "hot exhaust blowing directly on CDI box" question.

"As far as the CDI, yea, nothing electronic likes heat, so get it away from the pipe."

[splangeland]

I think intake called for .005"-.009" I set that one at either .006" or .007" I cant remember for sure. Exhaust called for .011"-.015" I believe and I set that one at .013". The clearance for those two could be swapped but regardless to which one goes for which valve, thats what I set them at. I moved my cdi last night, just zip tied to my frame above my carb and still had a loss of power. I will check the compression later tonight.

[splangeland]

I just realized the cdi I am bidding on is for a DR, mine is a DX. Does that matter?

[El Camexican]

I just realized the cdi I am bidding on is for a DR, mine is a DX. Does that matter?

Get on a Yamaha parts site and see if the numbers match.

[El Camexican]

I think intake called for .005"-.009" I set that one at either .006" or .007" I cant remember for sure. Exhaust called for .011"-.015" I believe and I set that one at .013". The clearance for those two could be swapped but regardless to which one goes for which valve, thats what I set them at. I moved my cdi last night, just zip tied to my frame above my carb and still had a loss of power. I will check the compression later tonight.

STOP! Those specs are in MM NOT Inches! if you are measuring in inches the specs are .002" to .004" int and .004 to .006 ex. You are way too loose if you set them in inches.

[splangeland]

I can't believe I did that... I re-set them. I set intake so that a .06mm will fit but .08mm will not. Ehaust is set so that .13mm will fit but .15mm will not. I am hearing a quiet clicking when the engine is running that I've never heard before but without exhaust it was so loud I could hardly hear myself think so I don't know if its always been there. My pipe turned slightly red when it lost power but it was hard to even tell it was red, unlike before where it was bright red.

[El Camexican]

I can't believe I did that... I re-set them. I set intake so that a .06mm will fit but .08mm will not. Ehaust is set so that .13mm will fit but .15mm will not. I am hearing a quiet clicking when the engine is running that I've never heard before but without exhaust it was so loud I could hardly hear myself think so I don't know if its always been there. My pipe turned slightly red when it lost power but it was hard to even tell it was red, unlike before where it was bright red.

So the new pipe turned red with the valves properly set? If so don't run it like that. Your cam chain or ignition timing is off. Check both and then if need be buy a CDI. A slight valve tick is normal, especialy on an air cooled engine.

[splangeland]

Yeah pipe turned red once the valves were set. It was very hard to see but it was red. I have checked my timing but I'm having a helluva time with it. It looks spot on then I move my head and it looks off. That keeps going on untill I just put the two covers back on and call it good but best as I can tell its set right.

[splangeland]

What do you mean by my cam chain could be off? Also, on my flywheel there is a "T" and and "F". There is a diagram that says the T stands for TDC and the F is ignition timing mark I think they call it. If I understood it right I line up the T on the flywheel with the notch in the timing window not the F right? I didn't understand why the F would be called a timing mark if you use the T to set timing. I checked it when I took the head off and it was lined up with the T so that's how I set it.

[barnett468]

What do you mean by my cam chain could be off? Also, on my flywheel there is a "T" and and "F". There is a diagram that says the T stands for TDC and the F is ignition timing mark I think they call it. If I understood it right I line up the T on the flywheel with the notch in the timing window not the F right? I didn't understand why the F would be called a timing mark if you use the T to set timing. I checked it when I took the head off and it was lined up with the T so that's how I set it.

Hello


Your post total is now at 88, when it gets to 100 which I'm pretty sure it will you get a free set of steak knives. You are setting a world record here because you continually supply incomplete and incorrect information. It is impossible to help someone this way, you need to answer the questions asked and give ACCURATE information or I suggest you quit asking for help. Answer them one at a time in line order fashion. Do NOT answer them all in one paragraph. If you do not answer them ALL I can not help so you are left with one.

I suggest you simple cut and paste them onto Microsoft word or similar then put your reply next to them then b copy and paste it back into the window.

For the 10th time or so, if your bike ever runs fine even for 30 seconds your cam timing is fine and your initial timing IS FINE. Do you understand what I am telling you?

It’s probably your CDI box like I said several times now providing it is NOT partially seized.

When it runs bad try removing your CDI and putting it in the refrigerator not the freezer, take it out and reinstall after 15 minutes and see if it runs well again.

If you notice there are only 2 people helping you now, soon there will be only one.

Did you install the new pipe? Yes or no.

Did you mount the CDI away from the exhaust? Yes or no.

Does it start easily? Yes or no

Do you need the choke to start it? Yes or no.

Does it idle well? Yes or no.

Does it run well with NO problem when it is COLD? Yes or no

Does it continue running well until you turn it off as you claimed before? Yes or no.

[barnett468]

Is it hard to restart when you turn it off while it is still running well? Yes or no

[El Camexican]

What do you mean by my cam chain could be off? Also, on my flywheel there is a "T" and and "F". There is a diagram that says the T stands for TDC and the F is ignition timing mark I think they call it. If I understood it right I line up the T on the flywheel with the notch in the timing window not the F right? I didn't understand why the F would be called a timing mark if you use the T to set timing. I checked it when I took the head off and it was lined up with the T so that's how I set it.

Correct. If you have it there on the "T" and your top mark lines up while you are keeping the chain taunt in a counter clockwise direction it is good, nothing to change.

I can only think of one last think to check aside from what was suggested about cooling the CDI. Take a flashlight and shine it on your intake manifold. Grab your float bowl and gently move it left to right and then up and down. While you are doing this look for a crack in the manifold. If it's not that I have a couple more questions about the transition between it running good and not, but I'll save them till I see the rest of your posts.