That looks bigger than 1/4 mile to me. Maybe closer to 1/2 mile. Go have fun and be careful.
That looks bigger than 1/4 mile to me. Maybe closer to 1/2 mile. Go have fun and be careful.
I made a lowering link yesterday out of 4"swedge tube shortened to three inches and two heim joints. We use these on our dirt car for tie rods and upper a-arms, so they should be plenty strong for flat track racing. I gotta make a couple spacers before installing it though. The link below will show you guys what I used.
http:// http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Swedged-Steel-Tube-for-5-8-Inch-Heim,2092.html
1985 Honda 250r
Hello Forever Three Whee
“I managed to knock a few more inches out of the height today.
I didn't use a pull strap, I used chain. It still has about 2 inches of travel so it's not rigid.”
As previously mentioned by another member, tying the bike down is at the very least, not the proper way to do it however since it is done I must say that at the very least it looks better than using a tie down would.
I suggest 1 additional thing in case you haven’t done it already which is to lower the front of your bike as much as you lowered the back or simply try it with the front 50 mm higher than the rear as it appears to be by amount of fork tube sticking above your top fork clamp in the photos and if it does not turn or slide easily enough coming into the big sweeper turn then try lowering it 25 mm then another 25 mm max if necessary to achieve the best turning effect.
Lowering the back by 4 but the front by only 2 slowed your steering down. This makes it more stable at high speeds but causes it to turn or respond more slowly to steering input. Lowering does exactly the opposite.
High front is good for straight line high speed, low front is good for quick turn on tight trails at low speed etc.
Hope this info helps.
All your info has been helpful and I do appreciate everyone's input. Because the track is so big and fast with really long corners I'm gonna run it with the front as is and if need be then change it as you suggested.
I wasn't real keen on the idea of a strap because the fear of it breaking and catapulting me over the bars at 100kmh far exceeded the ease in which it would be to fit. Lol
See that metal thing up the top bolted to the frame...... That's a shopping cart wheel holder. Lol
Hello Forever Three Whee
All your info has been helpful and I do appreciate everyone's input.
Because the track is so big and fast with really long corners I'm gonna run it with the front as is and if need be then change it as you suggested.
Good, nice to know you will be able to come back with a ride report, lol
xxxxx
I wasn't real keen on the idea of a strap because the fear of it breaking and catapulting me over the bars at 100kmh far exceeded the ease in which it would be to fit. Lol
It might have been only 95kph, lol.
xxxxx
See that metal thing up the top bolted to the frame...... That's a shopping cart wheel holder. Lol
No it’s not, now repeat after me, “It is a dolly wheel I bought from the swap meet ergo no receipt Mr. Missing Shopping Cart Investigator/Police Man Sir!, lol
Ben ,You want it as low and wide as you can get it. My 81 250r flat tracker is 51 inches wide in the back.Also you may want to lower the front alittle. If you have them get 18 inch rears and gear for them.If you dont have jumps you should do great.
250r rules
Good luck .Get some vids please .
250r rules
Thanx and don't worry, we're all getting video. This is a really big thing for trikes in Australia.
You'll be fine with that setup. Your left knee is going to get tired I can all but promise you.
Make sure your grips are glued on tight. Hate to see you lose a left grip and go arse over tea kettle !![]()
The Goal... All I Need Is The Time...
the correct way of lowering a vehicle is doing it in the shock internally. granted most people don't have the tools to do this. problem with lowering links is they lower the vehicle, but do not limit the travel. I had this problem on my wifes motorcycle, so the rear tire would contact the rear fender. I imagine on a trike the swingarm would be hitting all the stuff in the sub frame.
to be honest, rebuilding a rear shock is not all that hard, pick up race tech's suspention bible, has a step by step, the only special tools you really need are the nitrogen filler, and possibly a shaft holding tool. lowering is pretty much just placing some spacers in the valve stack, under the stack...and what the hell, might as well toss in a race teck gold valve while you are in there
F.U.2 RACING
Atc90, bandito frame
Atc185 x2
82 250 (300 kit)
83 250R
200ES Big red
Atc200X (with lifan motor)
Hello ratvespa
Just in case you didn't know, one can also limit shock travel by adding an aluminum spacer to the shock shaft thereby eliminating the need for a shorter shock. One can then lower the bike using a shorter link and achieve the same goal. This will also allow one to easily revert back to long travel simply by switching the link[or if they made an adjustable one like the one I showed how yo make in one of my previous posts, simply adjust it] then removing shock shaft spacer. I have made many of them it's an easy deal.
I made this lowering link our of swedge tube and heim joints yesterday. Both ends are threaded different, to allow adjustability.
This is the result. I did end up lowering the front some more to help my low speed steering.
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1985 Honda 250r