Hello tvpierce
How do you expect to set anything on fire that way, lol. I personally don’t think that even if you had an air leak it would not cause the problems you have.Originally Posted by tvpierce
Just wanted to quickly say I looked at the video, good job. I’ll listen again a few times. If I forget about all the previous posts I would say it sounds like the cam timing is retarded and it may have an electrical miss. I know the choke affects it a little and might appear to be lean to some but I don’t think that’s your biggest problem. I know you have already checked some of the following but I would do it again if it was me. It sounds like it may have a major ex leak which can cause problems and it sounds like it rattles a bit intermittently maybe timing chain slap but it’s hard for me to hear due to the audio. Also sounds like it may be popping slightly out ex valve, hard to tell.
It obviously has an initial “bog” off idle until rpms reach mid then it has a definite miss that sounds electrical to me. Out of the hundreds of bikes and cars I have worked on I have never had a lean condition cause a severe “miss” like that, but there’s always a first time.
Listen for ex leak at head pipe, you can use a 2’ long piece of vacuum line as a stethoscope if need be. Stick one end CLOSE to your ear NOT in it and stick the other end between the ex flange and head. Move hose slowly, if it has a big leak it will be VERY loud in your ear. You can use this around intake boot to find air leaks sometimes too.
Hook up a timing lite in the dark and rev it up and see if the lite “misses” or “falters” when it gets to mid throttle. If it does you at least have an electrical problem for sure. Might be able to see better if the lite “misses” if you point it at the white marks you put on your advance. If it misses I don’t think the miss is caused by carburetion so I might find the cause of that before jetting, hard to say.
Install the 3rd new CDI you have.
Maybe as a last resort get another flywheel. I agree it sounds nuts but if I remember correctly both you and KB and another member ALL have source coils that ohm nearly identical. You yourself have your orig and a new $19.95 [shipping not included] TAIWANESE one and both yours read the same ohms and voltage which is 40% less volts then kb's and the other guys. Unless KB or another electrical expert tell's me differently, any coils, big small etc., that have an equal amount of a resistance [ohms] will produce basically the exact amount of voltage when the same flywheel is spun around them at the same RPM. You say your spark is still weak so who knows, maybe the magnetism gremlins came and stole some of yours.
I would check cam timing again. Can you post a photo of cam gear when T is in window on flywheel?
Check valve clearance again
Make sure plug has no carbon [black].
Try old needle/seat to raise float level as we talked about.
See if it will idle lower than that and see if idle mix screw has any effect. That is not a low idle to me.
I personally would determine the timing at idle at the very least by using the F in the window and marking advancer/housing method I suggested but advance at full rpm won’t hurt but. I know I keep asking about this and even I don’t think it’s a problem but at this point I think it’s time to check everything.
If you want to you can also possibly put a white mark on the cam gear and watch it with the lit to see if it moves at high rpm. If it does then your chain is loose due to adjuster probably but this should not cause much of a problem so I think it’s low on the list of priorities.
If it still runs bad I would remove carb and ex, put T in window with piston at tdc then spray carb cleaner [not brake cleaner] or your handy WD40 into ports until there is a little “pool”. If it disappears quickly you have a big valve leak.
FYI – You do NOT get a second set of free steak knives if you reach 200 posts, only one set per contest winner, lol.
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