Painted Header Pipe
Painted Muffler
QuickSteel patches I made
Painted Header Pipe
Painted Muffler
QuickSteel patches I made
Last edited by Amazon3d; 06-27-2013 at 08:08 PM.
Okay so I have everything together and had no spark. I had to pick up a washer for the spark advancer, did not notice but it was missing the bolt to keep it from skipping. Now it has spark again.
I also put some fuel in the cylinder and tried pull starting but not getting any fire.
Is it possible the advancer is upside down?
Yes it is possible to have the advancer off 180 degrees.
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1984 Honda ATC200ES "Big Red"
1982 ATC200E "Hondie"
1988 TRX300FW "Project Quad" Still in progress....
I rotated it and got it to come to life for the first time in the 6 months I've had it!
Though it only lasted 15-30 seconds the first time and I didn't get it on camera the second time I got it to fire up (took a lot of tries) it ran for 10-15 seconds then guzzeled out.
I am trying to get the video on youtube but my camera wont upload without power supply which I misplaced.....
Will post video soon.
Last edited by Amazon3d; 06-29-2013 at 06:40 PM.
Brief running and dying like that means fuel issue! Set your mixture screw and make sure the idle stop is set a little fast and then you can adjust it for a good idle speed once its warmed up.
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1984 Honda ATC200ES "Big Red"
1982 ATC200E "Hondie"
1988 TRX300FW "Project Quad" Still in progress....
Yep the pilot screw in that picture. If thats the case, believe it or not, you still got a problem in the carb. Plugged passage or partially clogged jet. They can be a bugger.
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1984 Honda ATC200ES "Big Red"
1982 ATC200E "Hondie"
1988 TRX300FW "Project Quad" Still in progress....
Iv had so many problems with gas sitting in my carbs and trying to rebuild them and they still not working right i just found a good site for china replacement carbs almost always a direct bolt up and go setup, and there cheap as hell got my 200e Big Red carb brand new for 20 bucks almost as much as a rebuild kit!!!
http://www.caltric.com/ .......... This is the site iv got the carbs,starters, and some stators too all working very well!!
http://stores.ebay.com/CALTRIC ......... Here is there Ebay store.
This is a new carburetor. Actually the same one you have listed there.
If its a new carb might be the wrong size jets, i have come across that many times with these cheap carbs, i usually swap the stock jets from the old carb to it and all is well again.
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1984 Honda ATC200ES "Big Red"
1982 ATC200E "Hondie"
1988 TRX300FW "Project Quad" Still in progress....
Bike didn't have a carb when I got it.
Also I still haven't pulled out that snapped screw and re-threaded it yet so there is a small gap between the engine and insulator. (3-4 pages thick)
Hello amazon3d
I watched the video and to me it seems like it is either running out of gas or the spark is stopping possibly due to the plug loading up with oil. I think it is not likely that an incorrect pilot jet is causing the problem but it’s possible it may be contributing to it. Others opinions will vary.
How much choke are you using to start it?
What is the air temp when you first try to start it?
If you are using full choke try half.
Do you mean there is a gap between the rubber carburetor mounting boot and the cylinder head that leaks air due to a slight space because one of the mounting bolts is broken?
If this is the case there is no point in trying to do anything with it until it is repaired.
If you are determined to run it like this for some reason you can clean the area with a small toothbrush size wire brush followed by brake cleaner then flood area with High Temp or Ultra Black silicone. Let it dry 24 hours or it will fail guaranteed.
High Temp
http://www.all-spec.com/products/811...FVMV7Aod4HQAGg
Ultra Black
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/um...FSRp7AodLAMAoA
If it still has the same problem you can do the following.
1. Take a 10” piece of clear plastic tubing and connect it to the float bowl drain fitting
2. Tape hose securely to carb with open end even with top of carb.
3. Turn gas on.
4. Open drain screw.
5. Has will flow into tube to the exact same level it is in the carb.
6. The gas should be from level to the bottom edge of the carb where it meets the bowl to 3/16” below that level.
7. If level is incorrect then adjust float.
8. Once level is correct leave clear hose attached and start bike. If it starts then dies look at the gas level. If gas level is near or at the bottom of the bowl it is running out of gas.
9. If it dies and gas level remains the same then remove plug and inspect it. If it is bone dry it is not getting gas from the bowl; to the engine on a continuous basis, If it is the least bit damp it is most likely flooding. Leave it put for 5 minutes and re-inspect it, if it is still damp then it is getting coated with oil and possibly fouling. If this is the case then clean plug and try again.
10. Lay plug on head and see if it sparks.
Thanks Barnett,
The gap is between the head and the metal carburetor insulator. I wasn't sure how much of a problem that would cause. I will take it out and retap the hole.
That is a neat trick with the gas drain tube, will keep it in mind.
I started it with 1/2 choke and air was around 85 degrees.
It has really good spark, shocked the crap out of my hand, bright white/blue.
I also need to get a gasket for the exhaust, I will likely replace the o-ring on the carburetor insulator as it is fairly flattened.
Edit:
Looks like I will be cutting off the stud and drilling it out, vice grips couldn't get a hold of the stud.
Last edited by Amazon3d; 06-30-2013 at 04:27 PM.