new member here,,,1984 and 85 125m ATC

[auto5man]

Hi I'm Dave,

Just registered. Getting into 3 wheelers a bit for tinkering/recreational/hobby use for my two daughters and myself. I've got two 125m's....one is running, the other I purchased as a parts bike. Now I'm trying to resurrect the parts bike and get it running, lol. It needs a few parts....left engine cover spacer, sub transmission, air tube (between airfilter box and carb), recoil assembly, and a few more odds and ends, but those are the main ones. Probably will end up getting another parts bike, as the cost of just those parts on the used market alone seem to add up to more than what I see some "parts" bikes go for advertised in the paper, CL, etc.

I'm also having trouble figuring out what is the right flywheel puller for the 84, 85 125m ATC's. I've looked at the motion pros and there are several. Using the 'application' function, it seems like EVERY honda model EVER made is listed except the 125m....grrrr! Anyone know which is the correct one by part #?

I'm also wondering if I've chosen the wrong model to get attached to since there seems to be a lot of shifting problems with this model (part breakage in the shifting system, a design weakness).....but they are a great size for my 9 and 11 yr old, and not too small that I can't ride with them too.

Anyway, great site...I've learned alot already from 3ww.com. It seems most of the google searches I did for initial inquiries I ended up here.....great information.

Regards,

Dave

[kb0nly]

Welcome to the site! If you need the service manual for those 125's check out my new manual website, link is below in my signature area.

The flywheel puller for the 125M is just a bolt, you can do it with a Metric bolt from a good hardware store, or you can buy one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/84-85-ATC-12...c75d4c&vxp=mtr

It's a 14mm x 1.5 thread pitch bolt. I have made a few that i keep around for working on these, my ATC200ES uses the same bolt for popping them off. If you make one take a 14mm bolt and a matching nut, spin the nut on so about a half inch of the bolt is showing past the nut, then take it to a bench griinder and make the end look like a dull pencil, just chamfer off the the edge of the end of the bolt to about a 45 degree angle and then spin the nut off to clear the threads and you got a flywheel puller.

What works best is to turn it into the flywheel by hand till seated against the crank then take an impact wrench to it. If you don't have an impact wrench what i have done many times is a breaker bar and socket and a rubber mallet to shock it a few times, usually pop right off.

The 125M is a good trike, the problem is people get to hard on the shifter or force it to shift while under throttle, etc. Shift it easy, don't be kicking it up or down so hard to the ends of its travel, thats what breaks the shift drum stopper. The shift drum stopper is a fairly easy fix, takes me about a half hour to tear it apart, clean, replace, and put back together. In the worst cases the boss that the stopper bolts to can get snapped off, but thats repairable also, been there done it. A little TIG welding from a local shop and it was good as can be.

I ride a 125M now and then too, fun little trike, good power for even adult riders.

[auto5man]

Kb thanks for the information. Thanks for the manual links and all your work making those available. Funny thing is, I already got that info from your posts searching the site last week, and downloaded/printed the correct manual for my 125m. Glad to hear the positive info on this model b/c they are the perfect size for my girls (and fun for me too). I already have my parts bike engine removed and left and right covers off. Now working on clutch removal and flywheel removal. Kinda just generally going through things to fix whatever is needed. Hopefully I won't have to mess with rings and piston, etc., but I'm prepared to do that if its necessary. I'm finding the engine relaxing and fun to work on (exept for the trouble getting the flywheel and clutch cover plate screws off!)

Even the dealership seems confused on the flywheel puller for this model, because I have a contact at the local dealership and he lent me his puller....it obviously doesn't fit my wheeler. So t'morrow i plan on a trip to the hdwre for a 14mm bolt, hopefully that will go well. Think I'm gonna have to drill the heads off the phillips screws on the clutch cover off to remove the clutch....got one more trick to try first though.

Thanks again

Dave

[honda200xguy]

Welcome to 3WW

[ericmreimer]

Welcome to the site! Great info on here!

[sp8twn]

Welcome Aboard!!!

[HairyJR]

Welcome to the party and it's a great bonding fun for the family...

"HJ"

[kb0nly]

For those clutch cover screws, dont drill the heads off. I did that once and i couldn't get the screws out because i couldn't get a good enough bite on them with a vise grips.

Do you have a handheld impact driver? Its an awesome tool to have for getting case screws and screws like the clutch cover ones out. If you have an impact and/or the heads are just buggered up too bad then the best way i have found to deal with them is get a Dremel tool and a cutoff wheel and make a slot in the heads so you can use a flat head screwdriver or impact bit in them. Then just take them and get a couple new screws same length and thread from the hardware store and your good to go. I forget the size, but they are a metric screw as well.

Do you have the clutch nut socket?

[auto5man]

kb, got the 14x1.5 bolt and ground it just like you said...worked like a charm, flywheel is off! Now on those clutch screws I'm glad you said that about not drilling b/c i was about to start. They are buggered but still have some bite, I DO have the hand held impact driver but so far it is just bending the bit and and screw head and won't budge it, even after soaking penetrating oil and waiting. not sure i can get a dremel on that particular screw to grind a straight slot because the screw head is a flush head style....it has defeated me so far

Don't have the clutch nut yet.

[kb0nly]

What i do is use a dremel cutoff wheel thats just about worn down to nothing, so its the smallest diameter possible, you "might" nick the cover on either side of the screw head but it won't affect it in the long run, that cover has a gasket on the bottom side that isolates the screw holes so its not going to ruin your seal or anything. Then after you got a slot use that impact on them and get them broke free. They really can be a PITA.. I had one that i broke a philips bit in, tried oil for ever, but the penetrating oil just won't get down to the threads.

Another option instead of the dremel, Sears sells this thing for getting out buggered up philips screws. I forget what its called, i think its a Craftsman product. I saw another product one day called a ProGrabit, that thing would take out any philips screw with ease.

If you have to get evil with it, i would use a drill bit thats about the size of the threads of the screw and drill really slow into the center of the head till it just comes off then hope you can get a vise grips on whats left to remove them. I have a impact driver, the 1/4" chuck type for driving screws, i got a 1/4" hex to 1/4" drill chuck that i can put in that impact driver and tighten the chuck on whats left of a stubborn screw after cutting its head off, that combo removes em pretty easy.

Lots of ways to get past those screws... Once you do, replace them with allen cap screws, thats what i did!! No more philips woes.

[HairyJR]

Man I hate those soft aluminum screws, first mistake many people make is use the wrong number philips bit. Now the cross slots are raised and smeared. Use a flat chisel to flatten the raised edges back down flat which also stress relieves the bolt from the shock. Then as KB mentions above try using an impact driver. As your last resort drill out, even if you end up drilling off center or oversize the combination other chamfered bolts and gasket will seal.

[auto5man]

WOOOOOOOOOOHOOOOooooooooooo! Got em out tonight. Borrowed a Dremel and used the cut off wheel to mill slots like you said kb, then I used a giant 16 inch long flathead screwdriver that I could put a crescent wrench on for some torque and OUT they came pretty as you please. Only barely nicked into the cover plate in one spot maybe a mm, so I was happy.

the buggered screws...


slots milled for flathead...


screws and cover removed...


pretty nasty under that cover, water had gotten into the engine obviously....gonna be a chore to resurrect this one but I'm having fun so far.

[kb0nly]

There ya go!! The old Dremel trick saves another! When you replace them get some allen head screws, it will save a lot of pain in the future. A good t-handle allen wrench and you won't have any more problems stripping them out.

Wow that is nasty under there. It is where all the crud collects that gets into a motor, other than the oil screen of course, but any sludge or such ends up under that cover. A good cleaning is needed for sure, looks like it definitely had some water in it, but considering how often these things get left outside and found there years later thats not a huge surprise.

Were you going to split the case on this one also? If so i bet you find a lot of sludge inside also. Now if you don't have the clutch nut socket you can make one, or you can use a punch to work the slotted nut off. It's good to have the correct socket to torque it to spec when you reassemble but you can get it apart without it just takes a little time and patience, which you seem to have plenty of! LOL

[auto5man]

I hope to avoid splitting the case, but you're right its got to look ugly in there. I was hoping to put some kerosene in there and agitate it, drain, repeat, etc., to get it clean but we'll see (do you think that's a bad idea to even try?) Having never seen the inside of an ATV engine before, all of these processes are new to me and its read and study the service manual for me at every step, and I was trying to avoid getting into the case. Parts are holding me back at this point, need to find some economical parts sources, or I'll be stuck with ebay purchases and that gets expensive quick. (ebay prices would cost me around $260-300 at least and heck you can find a parts bike for less)

[kb0nly]

I wouldn't be against washing it out with something, kerosene or otherwise. Splitting the case is a bigger pain then its worth unless you really have to fix something inside.

What is it that your needing for parts? Must be an extensive list at that cost.