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Thread: Putting things in places they ought not to be (250R Hybrid Motor build)

  1. #31
    Billy Golightly's Avatar
    Billy Golightly is offline Always finding new and exciting ways to not give a hoot in hell Catch me if you can
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    Small update;

    Found a RAVE valve on ebay for like $35 shipped, so thats on the way. Got an OEM intake from RIDE-RED-250R (Thanks again man) that I'm sizing up. I've been pretty tied up the past 2 weeks and have'nt gotten to do much more on this. I was going to initially hold off on buying the crank/rod/piston stuff but I'm reconsidering that and thinking about going ahead and getting that stuff to see how things are going to need to be setup before I do a whole lot more work on it as far as coolant lines, intake, exhaust, etc. It all looks do-able, just going to take some thought and planning on it. The exhaust flange is going to need to have a little angle on it from the looks of things to make it under the wish-bone area.

    I'm a little bit concerned that my machining may not have left me with a surface exactly parallel to the crankshaft (Although I feel like I did a pretty good job of it) I'd hate to do everything else and find out that I had goobered up there on the most important part. I had an idea to basically assemble the thing without a cylinder head, and hook it up to a small electric motor and see how it wore (if any) for a little bit before I went much further on it, which might be a good idea considering all the welding/potential warping and such that has been done to this thing.

    So I guess right now, that is the direction I'm leaning, I will go ahead and get an 82mm FL350 piston ordered, possibly use a stock crank to try things out before I get the +4mm and stuff.

  2. #32
    Billy Golightly's Avatar
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    No idea on the crank case volumes, never seen one of these sled motors in person. I'm assuming they would be pretty similar. That could be increased or decreased with the spacer plate.


    Very good idea on the crank parallel idea..wish I would have thought of that earlier now instead of setting it up the way I did. I do have a piston on the way I can setup with a stock crankshaft to see how far I'm off, so I guess I'll go from there if I have it all fubar

  3. #33
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    awesome work billy!
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  4. #34
    Billy Golightly's Avatar
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    My FL350 piston came in yesterday. Hopefully in a day or two I can get it on a crank and in the cases with a degree wheel and we can really see where things are at on this

  5. #35
    Dave8338's Avatar
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  6. #36
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    any updates?
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  7. #37
    Billy Golightly's Avatar
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    A few minor ones. I'm hoping to get some real stuff done over the weekend and post a good heavy update then.

  8. #38
    Billy Golightly's Avatar
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    Update, long overdue.

    Long story short, I got the crank in one side of the case, did some degree checking (got pretty darn close with a 1/8in spacer plate) and found out that basically, with the crankshaft in, I couldn't get my cases to bolt up. Somehow, even though i was using the dowel pins and had several case bolts holding the cases together when I welded and machined everything, whenever I put the bearings and crank in, things go out of alignment, pretty significantly. Inititially I was thinking that perhaps I had a bearing pressed in the cases crooked or something, but no such luck....

    So, basically, this is the end of the road for those cases, and I get to start on attempt #2 soon


    This time, I'm going to take the idea that idea El Camexican had on the machined shaft to mimic the crankshaft, and I will use that in the cases when I do all my intitial welding, and the surfacing of the top as well. I'm gonna be buying a short (~1ft) length of hex stock here soon and either machining it myself to crank dimensions, or I might go and get that CNC'ed just for peace of mind in accuracy.

    I might still be able to salvage these I've already worked on, but that would entail re-machining the deck height and probably re-doing my studs, which since it has already been epoxied in around, might be a bit on the tricky side.

    Work has been pretty much keeping me busy lately so I haven't gotten to do as much as I would like, but I did take a little video you guys might enjoy before I discovered that the second half of the case didn't fit up right, where I pretty much run through and cycle things through with the cylinder/crank/rod/piston hooked into one half.

    It uploading on Youtube and I'll post the link here when its finished.

  9. #39
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    That's weird, having it all bolted together with dowel pins and such. I know you indicated it all in so I would imagine you got it pretty dead nuts.

    Work in progress, just look at what you learned already!

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  10. #40
    Billy Golightly's Avatar
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    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WaiYLQ_9_sI


    Here is the video I took of when I first got everything bolted together on one half before I realized the other half didn't fit up right...

  11. #41
    Billy Golightly's Avatar
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    I did pre-heat the cased before too...but I guess I'll try doing a bit more of it next go-around

  12. #42
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    This thread is a great read... It makes you think how much creativity & resourcefulness those old-school racers had...I mean I know Billy doesn't build custom race engines for a living, but this ain't the first time he's picked up a welder either... and well, to get this far shows a lot to his ability but... I just can't imagine what it was like 20-30 years ago when atv/atc racing was just beginning trying to come up with this kind of modification...cool stuff.... I was really hoping it would work.. I would love to see a monster like this screaming down the track at Haspin next year...
    Safety 3rd

  13. #43
    Billy Golightly's Avatar
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    I'm the same way, I think back when these guys were first doing these conversions and how outside the box they had to get. And you can certainly go even further back in different type of motor sports. Burn Munro that built "The Worlds Fastest Indian" made sleeves out of sewer pipes, ed connecting rods out from truck axles, casted his own pistons, filed his own camshafts, and he broke several records at the Bonneville salt flats. There isn't much else cooler to me than stuff like that. If your interested in stuff like that, you should read up on him sometime. There is a movie they did a few years ago with Anthony Hopkins playing him that has the documentary with the real Burt Munro on it also. The documentary is awesome, the movie is pretty good too.

    I'll get this thing figured out one way or another, just going to take a little bit longer.

  14. #44
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    try heating the cases to like 200-250 degrees. that should stop them from warping when cooled. also if the plate your using is too much thicker than the cases, it can cool different rates causing the cases to warp because of that. the way to combat that is to heat to like mentioned 250 or so weld some, heat again, weld more and repeat. when done, put int he oven and turn oven down 25* at a time till you eventually get to 100-150* then you should be ok to let air cool.
    ________________
    I'm just a squirrel "Trying" to get a nut!

    Nearly every kind of Honda ATC (plus some custom ones
    several Yami Quads (mostly custom built for MX racing)

    https://www.mikesatvfix.com

    "Freedom is not free...but the U.S. Marine Corps will pay most of your share."

  15. #45
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    Nice work,you talk in the first post about a cr500 cylinder swap,do you have picture somewhere of this setup? I have 5 cr500 topend and a set of case to try something....

    1986 ATC500X
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    1985 ATC200X
    1985 ATC250R
    1986 ATC250R
    1984 ATC250R
    1981 ATC70
    1984 ATC70
    1985 ATC70
    Custom built ATC70 / 250R laydwon swap
    1986 ATC250SX FATCAT

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