Catty whompus.
Catty whompus.
I know I realized that after the video I forgot to say it...I'll remember next time![]()
This is an awesome build very impressed with your skills and determination can't wait to see and hear if run!
I have been following this build and am about as anxious as you to see this completedI read your reasoning about the air leakage on the sealing collar of the crank shaft when you are leak checking and want to pipe in on that subject
First off Rad Randy And I were discussing the leak down check about a week before you posted your thread about air leak testing
I have been doing all of my own work on these for YEARS , I never even thought about doing leak checks on these engines. Thanks to Randy's drawings I now have a checker! Don't get me wrong I do leak checks on all the other engines I ever work on and that is quite a few, from 2 strokes to Sprint Car engines. I have to take issue with your theory of the situation with the seal collar though and I have been thinking about this since I read your theory
Yes I see that as being the most likely place to loose the air pressure , I have looked at this objectively and here is how I see it , you can agree or disagree but I have incorporated your theory and this reasoning together to draw the conclusion I have drawn
The seal collar if you look at it and the crank shaft they are a machine fit like a valve in it's seat
I agree with the guy that said about tightening the bolt down after installing the gears and Yes as you theorize it is still very likely that it may leak still
But We are testing Cold and When we heat everything to operating temperature the likelihood of air leaking there is so minimal that it doesn't deserve any further discussion
But I also see the end objective to keep air from leaking while testing, so an O ring could probably be used between the Seal Collar and the crank shaft seating surfaces while testing and then remove it
I will be testing this theory in a couple days as I have an engine I am Getting ready to assemble
Can I ride the Hybrid when You are done
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You are correct in your assumption El ! Your observation of the o ring on the KTM is what I suggest, but to remove it after testing because it may change the tolerances if left in place ! I did look at the fiche but had to fish around a bit![]()
yeah, I realize I may be splitting hairs there - but it just doesn't seem right to me, that the machined ID portion of the collar as it is shown on the Honda parts break down, is intended to be sitting over top of the splines, and not further back "in" on the crank where the splines arent cut. As it is drawn, basically the only thing sealing that collar (besides the bolt and crash washer on the end, lets forget they are there because it helps my case) is the lipped edge of the collar being up against the crank webbing, since the lip is a larger diameter than the bearing surface. If you picture putting a cup against a wall or flat edge, thats basically the only thing sealing it, is that lipped edge as it is drawn in the parts break down. I feel like flipping it around, and using the precision machined ID to go past where the splines are cut, back to where the bearing surface of the crank is still completely round would provide a *much* better seal.
I am sure it makes sense to the people that designed it and I see both points , Yours and El's , I don't have a lathe so I couldn't do it on siteI appreciate you bringing this whole issue to lite Billy, because I would have been testing and loosing pressure at that location and it would have driven me bananas
So I will use an O ring!
Beat me to it El! Lets guess.. Diesel/propane/ Meth injection ,,no plug needed!?? ...Have I mentioned I Love this thread?![]()
Please help those who cannot help themselves.
ALWAYS buying Museum quality machines,3 and 4 wheels. And any and ALL ,NOS parts,EVERY brand.
I am turning my PM's Off,my Email is billsracing@hotmail.com,put 3WW in the subject. Thanx!
Gun laws do not stop criminals. BULLETS do.
There is still a lot more to do. Building the trans is going to be an expensive and pretty timely thing in and of itself probably.
I have to angle the plug in the head to clear the frame - I didn't want to drill it out and start working on that till I had the leak down test cleared.
I need to still;
Angle the plug in the head (turn an aluminum slug, weld it, re-drill, re-tap, clean up combustion chamber on bottom)
Machine the shift shaft and shift seal area
Drill & tap for the drain plug where I repaired it
Install Water inlet in the head
Install water outlet on the cylinder
Tweak my exhaust flange I made
Replace every bearing in the cases
Have the cylinder replated
Buy and install a 4mm Stroker crank
Build the trans/swap everything from another motor into this one
Building a pipe and some light touch up grinding work where the transfer tunnel ramps are not included in the list.
This weekends update!
Drilled, pressed in a slug, welded, and re-drilled the new angled spark plug hole (Still need to tap it, thought I had a 14x1.25 handy but no such luck) in the head.
Also welded a flat spot, machined, and drilled a hole down to the water jacket for a water spigot. Went back and fourth between a bolt on or weld on neck, ended up with a weld on setup. Deciding this took a lot of time. Also had to build up, then surface, build up then surface a few times to get a big enough area.
On the cylinder, machined a flat spot for a bolt on water neck above the intake, and that broke though into the water jacket in spots I didn't want it to, and then didn't, where I DID want it to. More welding and resurfacing, welding and resurfacing. Got it built up enough finally on about the 3rd attempt. I have the hole down into the water jacket on the cylinder drilled, but I need to do 2 more small drills and taps for the 6mm bolts that will hold on that bolt on spigot (Didn't get pics of it finished, that'll be next time when its completed.
Also worked with the die grinder and marked out where my transfer ramps needed cleaned up to meet the base gasket area, go that almost 100% perfect. Could run it as it is now or another 5 min and I'd have it better than OEM probably.
A few WIP below...I also wacked the F' outa myself in the face with the handle to raise and lower the knee mill, almost knocked myself out. In my infinite wisdom, swinging it away with my left hand and my head bent over, trying to lower the table about as fast as I could, it ran off the splines, spun right around in my hand and CLOCKED me good about 1 1/2in from my left eyeball. I seen stars and had a good headache for about 45 minutes. If it would have been lower it woulda knocked some teeth out for sure...Did receive a complimentary black eye though!
Welded up the old spark plug hole after pressing in an aluminum slug, welded in circumference on top and bottom of it.
Doing a little mock up testing, ended up shortening my weld on elbow a bit after seeing it in there. You can also see where I was late yesterday on the back of the cylinder working on making a spot for the bolt on water spigot.
Final welding of the water spigot on the head, I have angle drilled the plug hole - still need to tap it. (Not shown)
And me after whacking myself with 3lb cast iron knee handle.
I took a lot of video too...I'm working on compiling a hodge podge of stuff I want to end up making into a little 10-15 minute movie about this thing once its finally finished.
Last edited by Billy Golightly; 03-02-2014 at 09:26 PM.
Damn man. Glad you're ok.. Life changing crap happens in a split second.. Engines looking awesome!
Please help those who cannot help themselves.
ALWAYS buying Museum quality machines,3 and 4 wheels. And any and ALL ,NOS parts,EVERY brand.
I am turning my PM's Off,my Email is billsracing@hotmail.com,put 3WW in the subject. Thanx!
Gun laws do not stop criminals. BULLETS do.
Lookin great Billy!! Man I wish I could do stuff like that..
I'm not too sure if you've gone over this before or not but: Are you going to add any material to the counter balancer? Or will it be fine as is stock?
too many bikes to count. too little time on hand.