I think this thread has the makings of being a STICKY! I think one of the mods should make it happen.
I think this thread has the makings of being a STICKY! I think one of the mods should make it happen.
insanity - Doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result
My Feedback Thread.....http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck-for-MRSOUND
86 honda big red
85 250sx
82 250r
86 klt 185 black (project)
86 klt 185 red
85 klt 160 (Floyd)
85 klt 110 X2 (projects)
86 klt 110 X2
84 klt 200
84 atc 70
DUCKSTER!
Great write up. I have been through my share of carbs and the tips you show took a lot of time for you. I learned something new in this tutorial.
Now.....I would LOVE to see a rear diff write-up. I know I will need to re work the ring and pinion in mine eventually. I have presses and pullers and race removers and drivers. More importantly is where to get new gears? Mine are pitted from moisture.
Ok point taken..the learning curve is kinda steep!!
But if it comes down to does your carb look like this..??
Or like this??
If the answer is #2, then you should at least attempt to read Jim's awesome thread..
My point is too many new members run to the computer to ask before even attempting to look at the machine..this thread is all the reference material you need and more.
Sure it's a long read, but totally worth the effort..if it's too much then box it up and send it too Jim and he'll send it back looking like #1!!!
Current toys..
1986 Honda 350X..trail bomb!
1985 Honda 250SX..my main mudder
1985 Honda 250ES..Back in Black Trike
Current non-trike toys:
1990 Honda TRX300FW
1995 Seadoo GTX
1998 Polaris Indy Lite 340(Nearly new looking)
1998 Polaris Touring 500
1998 Club Car (electric)
Current toys..
1986 Honda 350X..trail bomb!
1985 Honda 250SX..my main mudder
1985 Honda 250ES..Back in Black Trike
Current non-trike toys:
1990 Honda TRX300FW
1995 Seadoo GTX
1998 Polaris Indy Lite 340(Nearly new looking)
1998 Polaris Touring 500
1998 Club Car (electric)
All good stuff guys. I do have a few differentials to rebuild and since I have nothing but time on my hands right now, I will do a diff rebuild thread. I have a perfect candidate sitting on my bench for that. Be looking for that in coming days.
Now, does anybody have a trashed 85 ES carb you want to part with. I need the butterfly plate out of it. This Colorado carb is really pissing me off. I pulled it apart again last night and I could not find anything that would cause it to run lean. I have it installed in my SX right now with the airbox all hooked up. I'm going to take it for a ride around the hood and see how it runs under load but I'm thinking the butterfly plate has something to do with it which still doesn't make any sense to me. As I pointed out, the SX carbs have the hole in the butterfly plate as well as the TRX250. That's where I got the butterfly plate from but I'm still wondering what the hell that hole is there for. Why one set of carbs and not the others? One of those things that makes me go.....HMMMMMMMMMM.
That hole has to be primarily effective at idle only. Sure it could disrupt airflow a very slight amount when in the thumb,but I wouldn't think anything at all noticeable except at idle. I have noticed the holes before,but never had a problem either way. My bet is the right plate will fix er right up.Wish I had one,I'd send it your way. Well, ok , I have lots of carbs lol. None apart. But I will send you a sx and a es if this one doesn't cooperate with you.
Please help those who cannot help themselves.
ALWAYS buying Museum quality machines,3 and 4 wheels. And any and ALL ,NOS parts,EVERY brand.
I am turning my PM's Off,my Email is billsracing@hotmail.com,put 3WW in the subject. Thanx!
Gun laws do not stop criminals. BULLETS do.
Doug has some junker carbs he's going to send me. Hopefully one has a good plate in it. I tend to agree Bill. The only time that hole would have any effect on the carb is when the butterfly is closed. Its adding a small amount of metered air at idle only but why? I'm half tempted to put a piece of speed tape over the hole and see if it effects it. I think I'll do just that.
Well I took my SX out and on the gas it actually runs pretty good but it does have some popping on deceleration and idle is very erratic. I think I'm going to pull the carb and rip it apart again and concentrate on the slow speed circuit but I will go back through it thoroughly and I will block off that hole in the butterfly plate and see what I get. If that doesn't fix it then more than likely I will strip it for parts.
Tonight I went back through the Colorado carb. Everything looked good. I blocked off the hole in the butterfly plate with a drop of 2 part epoxy and guess what? An entirely different running carb???????? It idles smoothly and the popping is gone. WTF!!!!!! Now I really want to know what the hell that holes does.
It adds air at idle and deceleration resulting in lean. End of thinking lol. But seriously,was this 85 only SX's or 86-7 also?? I'll have to pay more attention looking through parts and take notice. The things manufactures change year to year never ceases to blow my mind.
Please help those who cannot help themselves.
ALWAYS buying Museum quality machines,3 and 4 wheels. And any and ALL ,NOS parts,EVERY brand.
I am turning my PM's Off,my Email is billsracing@hotmail.com,put 3WW in the subject. Thanx!
Gun laws do not stop criminals. BULLETS do.
absolutely terrific post. Can you tell me.....where physically on the carb, does the fuel leave the carb to enter the engine. where does the fuel travel from? Also how is the fuel pumped....by vacuum from the piston? Or is there an actual pump located? I have an 85es that im about to delve into. thanks
Fuel is screened through a tube in your tank,then into the petcock where it goes through a screen. All gravity ,no pump. Down the hose into the carb ,down to the needle,if the floats are calling for fuel,the float is down opening the needle and seat allowing fuel in. Once the floats are happy,they push the needle up into the seat shutting fuel off.With fuel in the carb bowl,the relative circuits mix the fuel and air together" spraying "the mist into the intake. The down suction of the piston draws it in. These particular carbs are simply,over complicated. With a butterfly AND a vacuum, Rather than just a slide. FCR carbs are what you want these days. But that is a whole other story. There ARE machines using a fuel pump. They are the bikes with the tank under the seat where gravity won't do the trick. A vacuum pulse from the intake runs the pump on these bikes.
Please help those who cannot help themselves.
ALWAYS buying Museum quality machines,3 and 4 wheels. And any and ALL ,NOS parts,EVERY brand.
I am turning my PM's Off,my Email is billsracing@hotmail.com,put 3WW in the subject. Thanx!
Gun laws do not stop criminals. BULLETS do.
Bill,
The SX carbs 02 and 08s and the TRX250 04 carbs are the only ones with the hole in the butterfly. I'm going to compare the various holes in the carbs and see if some are larger than others.
Roonie, these carbs are all vacuum type carbs. There are 3 ports corresponding to the three circuits in the carb. There is a tiny hole just outside and forward of the butterfly in which fuel is fed to the motor for the idle circuit. The main nozzle sticks up just behind the butterfly feeding fuel to the motor for the slow speed circuit about 1/8 to 40% throttle roughly and the main jet feeds the motor fuel at about 40% to wide open and that fuel comes from the hole the needle passes through. All vacuum drawn. All fuel is drawn from the bowl. Does this help?
"Does this help"...yes incredibly so. So it must be imperative that the air box/filter/ etc. be installed before start up eh? Other wise there would be tons more air entering the system..no? Im Canadian..eh. Thanks all you guys for answering some real corny questions. Now im off to install the new carb kit that did NOT come with a float. The kit is a "Shindy" brand made in japan....any good? thanks
Yep, Shindy is just fine.