I remember a thread on here that a member had a Tri Z that could not get the top end to run clean, I believe it ended up being the rectifier.
I remember a thread on here that a member had a Tri Z that could not get the top end to run clean, I believe it ended up being the rectifier.
Might be that huge intake and this is the first polished exhaust port I've done. Also added the boost port like on all my previous Tri-z cylinders. It gets faster and faster the bigger I go with the main jet. I don't think anything is wrong. I'm just amazed it's this thirsty. I've seen 500's with this same carb running a smaller main. I will be doing some more testing tomorrow after work.
Float level is ever with the float bowl mating surface.
New Boysen power reed Reeds.
No air leaks did the old starting fluid around the intake/gaskets trick. Idle didn't fluctuate at all.
YZ wire harness/engine so no rectifier or regulator.
I will have tons of video after Rampage.
Last edited by NeverLift; 04-23-2014 at 02:56 PM.
85 Tri-z Power valve on Inverts
85 Tri-z Basket Case
01 gsxr750 engine/Tri-z frame (long long way from complete)
I'm extremely interested in how your motor turns out. I just picked up an 86 tri-z I'm throwing a carb from a 82 yz250. I have the 82 yz motor as well but this 86 tri-z motor feels like it's going to run just fine. Could you post some pics of your motor and carb please
Good luck
I'm bringing the 80's back!
85' 200x - 84' 185s - 85' 125m - 83' xr500
Hey Neverlift, would you mind me sharing pictures of your bike on the Three Wheeler Appreciation Team Facebook page?
too many bikes to count. too little time on hand.
Well,
After playing with the jetting last night I've come to the conclusion that's not it. It runs best with a 205 main jet anything bigger and performance drops and flattens out at high rpm any leaner and it wont pull as high into the rpm. But the plug is a very very light tan regardless of the main.
Also put my timing light on to see if spark was breaking up at high rpm and it was flashing as solid as ever.
So I bought a Factory service manual today and found some useful info about adjusting the exhaust valve. There is a hole in the linkage arm and a machined hole in the cylinder that you put a dowel in to align everything then tighten down the 2 nuts. I did not do this. I will also set my ignition timing as per the manuals specs. Hopefully this will do the trick.
85 Tri-z Power valve on Inverts
85 Tri-z Basket Case
01 gsxr750 engine/Tri-z frame (long long way from complete)
Any updates on this please?
Keeping my sanity through my rebuilds.. Unemployment sux...
Wish I never had to sell any of my rides though..
Holy Crap it's been way too long and the sad thing is i'm on this site 5 times a day. A lot has changed.
Sprock Head YZ cut dome for pump gas but it still has 220psi. I have a race gas cut dome but never installed it, the compression would be thru the roof.I did the old Soldier on top of the piston trick but can't rember the measurement now. What clearence should i have? Pump and 110.
2001 cr125 forks
+3 Metal Tech Swingarm
Banshee rear end components
G-force rear hubs
Maybe more I can't remember.
Now it still flattens out on top. I'm leaning towards my Intake,porting and pipe combo not jiving with each other. For a all the experts out there. What would be the difference between a pipe on at standard cylinder vs a powervalve cylinder? I have done a leakdown and it held 7psi for 24 hours. I am open to any and all suggestions.
85 Tri-z Power valve on Inverts
85 Tri-z Basket Case
01 gsxr750 engine/Tri-z frame (long long way from complete)
She's real purrrrdy! I'm no expert, but three questions...
Are you certain that the power valve is opening all the way?
Have you played with your timing at all?
You seem to have a fair bit of plumbing going on to the air filter, have you tried running it with a simple pod filter to see if that makes a difference?
Those would be the first three places I looked for top end.
If it is an issue with the pipe you may be able to get it to rev a bit higher by shortening the head pipe a bit, but I wouldn't want to cut that pipe you have up to test the theory.
It sucks to get old
El,
I have taken the PV cover off and rev it slowly and it opens all the way. I have also adjusted from factory to be slightly lower and higher neither one cleared up my issue. I will ride it with the cover off and feel for it opening under load this weekend.
I set the timing with my dial indicator to factory spec. My last test session I restarted the timing a hair (no difference and the cover was covered in mud so i quit for the day) but the stator plate has a lot of adjustment so i'll keep going little by little till I'm full retard and see how that goes.
Yes that intake is long and big diameter. I have thought that it is just to much. I've got a K&N pod that I'll try to mount this weekend.
Yeah I'm not cutting up this exhaust. Its an LED (LRD from the day) I want to call Arlen and ask him how he would build it different for my application. However I want to have the funds available for a custom pipe before I call and blow smoke. I was thinking about putting the stock pipe on and seeing how it likes that.
I know to do these things one at a time. Thanks for the suggestions. Gives me some more stuff to test.
85 Tri-z Power valve on Inverts
85 Tri-z Basket Case
01 gsxr750 engine/Tri-z frame (long long way from complete)
Did you drill out or change the fuel tee. That helped jetting for me.
I didn't drill out the tee but last time I was testing I used a raptor tank in my lap to bypass all the fuel circuit to rule that out.
85 Tri-z Power valve on Inverts
85 Tri-z Basket Case
01 gsxr750 engine/Tri-z frame (long long way from complete)
Wow, that is a nice Tri-Z. Nice swing arm, Tyler makes some great products.
I would try dropping the compression 220 is very high and will take away upper mid, top end and over rev. Look at a modern YZ250 the PSI is 156 and that was reduced recently from 160 and the engine is faster. I would stay around 180 or less. I think you would like that motor with a stock head. Those reeds will start to fludder on the top end a pair of carbon Tech hi tension reed would be great in there. If you start at the stock timing and then retard at 1mm increments you will find the sweet spot where you will be happy, too much of a good thing can be a bad thing. It sounds like you are following the correct power valve adjustment, there maybe new found power in the jetting. I would also test the stock air box with no lid a air box can give you more velocity and will often out perform a POD. Check the fuel delivery the Tri-Z has been known for a few issues a top mounted tank can work wonders too. Try testing a spark plug one heat range colder as well, you may be surprised.
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As always- Everything I post is IMHO.
Just a question, as I have some experience with the Spock heads and the momentous compression, could you have a touch of detonation causing it to break up? I didn't see whether you were running the Sprock head the entire time or not. I have a Spock head on my Tecate, with around 215psi, and running 50/50 110 made my life a lot simpler.
nstyle73
"When in doubt, wind it out"
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