//ArrowChat Code
Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: 84 200M oil soaked stator/flywheel/pull rope

  1. #1
    cap's Avatar
    cap is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Nevada
    --
    163

    84 200M oil soaked stator/flywheel/pull rope

    Hi all,
    My sons and myself have recently purchased a 84 200M for 150$ with intention to restore it to riding condition for now and then go from there with further improvem,ents.
    The good news is it runs and looks fairly descent underneath the cosmetic stuff.
    The bad news is doesn't run well.
    I have downloaded the service manual and after some trouble shooting this what I have found.

    Carb cleaned and found washer and rubber seal missing on idle mixture. > Ordered new carb, it's on hand - not installed yet.
    Checked timing and pulse rotor, advance springs, all >OK
    Stator and generator ohms check out at the plugs IAW manual.
    Found Low voltage at idle @ 4.5v. revving engine causes voltage to drop further. >cleaned ground at coil, no change in voltage but better spark at plug.

    I figured the CDI is getting low voltage so I pulled the recoil stater, and left case flywheel cover. > found this area oil soaked, stators soaked, oil ran dribbled out.
    Is this indication of a bad seal on the left crankcase/shaft?
    Should oil be in there at all, from searching through pics everyone else s seem dry?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	oilsoak.JPG 
Views:	899 
Size:	399.0 KB 
ID:	184418   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	oilstator.JPG 
Views:	891 
Size:	518.7 KB 
ID:	184419   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	photo.JPG 
Views:	505 
Size:	584.0 KB 
ID:	184420  

  2. #2
    cap's Avatar
    cap is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Nevada
    --
    163
    OK since I posted I have answered my own question

    Yes the oil should be in the stator/flywheel housing, if you peer into the bowels behind the flywheel you will be able to see the cam chain and even into the crankcase through a small oil passage. So it is a wet system, I never knew.
    There is an oil seal under the recoil starter that should keep oil out of the recoil starter area so I will keep an eye on that and replace if necessary.

    I replaced the stock carburetor with a Caltric bought for 21$, Success! now the bike idles and runs perfect, very happy. Apparently the missing o-ring and washer on the old carbs idle screw is no bueno.

    As for the charging voltage. After some time on the bench charger to get the battery to 12.5 volts I put the old battery back in the bike. The voltage now reads 13.8 at the battery when idling so I hope it is charging and will be OK.

    I forgot how fun these are to ride, it's been too long!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    MN
    --
    3,260
    Sounds like you answered a lot of it yourself. Good deal on it running good now! I would replace the oil seal if your getting oil in the recoil, not that hard to do. Since you had the left cover off i would get a new gasket for that as well to stop any future leaks, also get a new o-ring on the bolt that holds the recoil pulley to the crankshaft.

    If the voltages stays up and the battery stays charged your good, if the voltage sags down low again like that then replace your regulator/rectifier. I had a few do this, my 200ES did it last summer also, the battery would run down and always need topping off and when i checked the voltage without the battery connected i only had around 5-6v output. However if you check the AC input to the rectifier/regulator and you see 10-30v AC there depending on engine speed then you can rule out the alternator/stator coil. Its usually just a bad regulator/rectifier unit, but it sounds like your battery was pretty dead also.
    ---------------------------------------------------------
    1984 Honda ATC200ES "Big Red"
    1982 ATC200E "Hondie"
    1988 TRX300FW "Project Quad" Still in progress....

  4. #4
    cap's Avatar
    cap is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Nevada
    --
    163
    Will do, come to think of it I don't recall seeing the O ring on the bolt.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Vancouver Island, B.C., Canada
    --
    812
    kb0nly's right...I've done two of these seals now on the 200's and it's a quick fix. The O-Ring on the bolt should be changed too as mentioned as oil could be coming through under the washer. Do the seal and O-ring at the same time and replace the gasket on the pull start housing. All this for under 30 bucks will give you the peace of mind.
    1985 Honda ATC 250ES
    1985 Honda ATC 250SX
    1984 Honda ATC 200M
    1983 Honda ATC 200
    1984 Honda ATC 110

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    ARIZONA
    --
    3
    Quote Originally Posted by Big G View Post
    kb0nly's right...I've done two of these seals now on the 200's and it's a quick fix. The O-Ring on the bolt should be changed too as mentioned as oil could be coming through under the washer. Do the seal and O-ring at the same time and replace the gasket on the pull start housing. All this for under 30 bucks will give you the peace of mind.
    Hello I have a 1984 Honda 200es big red with the same problem, where could I buy the o ring and oil seal?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Edmond, KS
    --
    2,531
    Partzilla has OEM parts and good parts diagrams.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Vancouver Island, B.C., Canada
    --
    812
    Yes, as mentioned OEM part is still available. So if you have a Honda dealer in your area you could ask them to order it for you.
    1985 Honda ATC 250ES
    1985 Honda ATC 250SX
    1984 Honda ATC 200M
    1983 Honda ATC 200
    1984 Honda ATC 110

//ArrowChat Integreation Code //