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Thread: 250ES charging questions...

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Choctaw, OK
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    2,755
    I concur with your findings. There are a few on Ebay UK.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_tr...at=0&_from=R40

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Hampshire U.K.
    --
    536
    I'm glad you understood that - for some reason all the spacings changed when I posted.
    Just as a heads up, once I've sorted this the carb is next!
    ATC 70, ATC 250es, 1/32 ATC 250R
    1 person in 10 understands binary, the other one doesn't.

    Trikefest UK '08 survivor!

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Choctaw, OK
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    2,755
    The carb is easy.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Saskatchewan,Canada
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    99
    would this work for testing.....take out battery..kick start engine and rev up with headlight on....if charging, the headlight should go from low light on idle to bright on rev of engine.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Choctaw, OK
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    2,755
    hat would be a valid way of testing the output of the regulator and lighting coil.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Pacific NW
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    4,255
    Quote Originally Posted by Flyingw View Post
    The carb is easy.

    HA!!!
    perhaps for the flyingW GuRu.
    Better than new has been known to outsmart
    the engineers.

    This in Not a joke.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    NB, Canada
    --
    852
    Doesn't make sense, but if you disconnect the battery and start it, the light will be bright at idle, then dim when you rev it. Both my 200m, and my 250sx were that way.
    Rides:
    1985 250sx
    1982 ATC185s
    1984 200es

    Always Hoping For a Maritime Trikefest- http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...s-where-you-at

    "Wear Limits Are Just A Suggestion"

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Choctaw, OK
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    2,755
    The idea here Tom is to see if the lighting coil is producing an AC output feeding the regulator and there is a DC output which would go to the positive terminal of the battery. On the trikes with batteries, the lighting is run off the battery and not strictly off of the lighting coil as the non battery models do. This is why when the key is turned to on and the motor is off, the lights come on so if Hairy Bear starts the motor and the lights come on, this will tell him if the lighting circuit is working.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Hampshire U.K.
    --
    536
    Once again there could be a week or so before I get back to it but thanks for all the help - just out of curiosity does anyone have a cicuit diagram of the regulator or opened one up?
    ATC 70, ATC 250es, 1/32 ATC 250R
    1 person in 10 understands binary, the other one doesn't.

    Trikefest UK '08 survivor!

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Hampshire U.K.
    --
    536
    Desperate now to get back to it to try your suggetions!
    I'm also wondering if, as I said the green wire terminal in the white plug is burnt caused probably by arcing, if that wasn't making the connection would that be enough to stop it charging?
    Am I right in thinking that the green from the rectifier goes to a 'frame' earth? If so I guess there's nothing to loose by earthing it to see what happens...
    ATC 70, ATC 250es, 1/32 ATC 250R
    1 person in 10 understands binary, the other one doesn't.

    Trikefest UK '08 survivor!

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Choctaw, OK
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    2,755
    I would defiantly look closely at the green wire for condition and arching. Its nothing more than a secondary mechanical ground for the stator base plate but if arching has or is still occurring then it needs to be fixed.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Hampshire U.K.
    --
    536
    CHHEEAAARRRGGEE!!!Ah, feel better now
    Got back to it today to test some theories.
    Started the engine and ran it about a mile to warm it up without the rectifier connected, then checked the output from the stator - 15vac - so far so good.
    Fitted the rectifier and plugged it in, meter reading 12.4v. Started the engine, meter dipped to about 11.5v then came back up to 12.4v. At this point I had the couplings outside the frame so I could mess with them. Didn't have to because I nudged the white plug and the meter twitched - only a little - but it was enough to point to the possibly faulty green wire connection.
    I put a small piece of lightly scrunched tin foil in the green wire socket, put the plug back together and started the engine. 12.4, .5, .6, .7...
    Jumped on it and drove it for about a mile, put the meter back on it with the engine at idle, 14v!
    Obviously I need to replace the plug/socket but what with? Once I've cut the plug out do I use through crimps? Bullet connectors? Choc block? Solder and heat shrink? Something from Radio Shack?
    All input welcome.
    ATC 70, ATC 250es, 1/32 ATC 250R
    1 person in 10 understands binary, the other one doesn't.

    Trikefest UK '08 survivor!

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Choctaw, OK
    --
    2,755
    Before you cut anything, which green plug? Harness side or stator side?

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Choctaw, OK
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    2,755
    Disregard... harness side or regulator side? The regulator side is the male plug and visa versa.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Choctaw, OK
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    2,755
    Aww crap... stator side or regulator side? So the regulator side is male and the stator side is female.

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