Clutch adjustment

[justin4]

Not 3 wheeled but I have just received a 2001 cr 250 for a acceptable amount of $$$$$ , when put in gear the clutch seames to be grabbing before I let go of it . Any help where to start new clutch? Thanks .

[El Camexican]

Have you adjusted it? (I assume it is a cable) If not it sounds like you might have warped steel plates.

[El Camexican]

Have you adjusted it? (I assume it is a cable) If not it sounds like you might have warped steel plates.

LEVERS & CABLES AND HOW TO ADJUST THEM
All cable manipulated clutches have a clutch lever, a cable and an arm, cam or a worm gear that provides a mechanical advantage to move the pressure plate against the springs. If these parts on your ride are stock then proper maintenance and adjustment should be all you need to keep them working correctly. Sometimes, especially if someone has incorrectly routed a clutch cable, the cable housing can be pinched, kinked, or otherwise hampered from smooth operation. If you have any doubts about this you need to disconnect the cable from the point closest to the engine and move the hand lever in and out. There should be no resistance whatsoever in either direction. If there is you either have very dirty cable housing, or you need a new cable. I recommend a new cable anytime there is any unknown cause of resistance or defect in the housing as the internal damage can be worse than the exterior looks. Argue that all you want, but I think anyone who’s ever had a cable fail will agree that it’s cheap insurance. Also keep in mind that if you change any component in the clutch lever/cable assembly you may also be changing the amount of movement that is transmitted to the clutch plates. i.e. a longer distance between the pivot bolt on the clutch lever and the point where the end of the cable seats in the lever will open the clutch assembly more than a shorter distance between the two would, but the force required of the rider to pull the lever will be greater. Similar changes occur if you change the length of the lever closest to the engine that the cable attaches to. If you make it longer the clutch will be easier to pull, but the amount that the clutch pack opens will be reduced. There is often a splined connector on the lever that attaches closest to the engine. For the best possible clutch action it is recommended that you position it in a place that will see it at 90 degrees to the nearest mounting point of the clutch cable housing halfway through its pull. This will provide the least amount of resistance to the user and aside from being easier to pull it will reduce the force exerted on the cable ends that could cause premature failure. You should also try to have all the cable housing adjusters in the most neutral position possible i.e. don’t thread the entire end of the engine side of the cable all the way into the holder and have only two threads of the other end in the clutch perch. This is a sure way to ruin the threads on the hand lever perch and will eliminate the possibility of making a simple adjustment on the trail. It is a lot easier to play with these little details in the shop than it is on a hot muddy engine in the middle of mosquito invested swamp.

[justin4]

The guy I got it from put a short pull avs leaver on . I have a longer clutch leaver I will start with. Thank you for the clutch info, I laughed for a few. Thanks as always for the info.