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Thread: 85 Yamaha 225dx bolt on mods?

  1. #16
    YamaBoss's Avatar
    YamaBoss is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsmitty1000 View Post
    Hi would this Tri Z forks mod work on the YTM 200?? As mine are bent a and its almost impossible to find the 200 forks in the UK.

    Thanks
    Yes they also fit a 200

  2. #17
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    Oct 2015
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    Great thanks I will give it a go, Will I need any extra bits or anything??

  3. #18
    YamaBoss's Avatar
    YamaBoss is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    You'll need a ytm 200 bottom bearing, the Tri z top bearing and some spacers to put between the Tri z lower triple and the bottom bearing. The stem on the Tri z forks is an inch or two too long so you have to put the spacer somewhere.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
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    UK
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    Thanks Into the parts boxes I go.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    May 2017
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    MN
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    After 8 months I finally got her just about 100% done!

    1985 Yamaha 225DX

    Following Mods

    1 - Timberwolf 250cc engine - Over hauled - Bored, head, clutch, cam, cam chain, cam bearing
    2 - Timberwolf rear swing arm, drive shaft and U-joint - Rear axle has all new brakes, bearings and seals
    3 - Tri Z 250 front fork- Rebuilt forks and disc brake
    4 - Tri Z front tire and rim with new tire and new axles
    5 - Tri Z front fender
    6 - Tri Z rear shock rebuilt and custom lower shock tower fabricated
    7 - Lots of other new parts such and battery, seat foam and cover and rear tires.
    8 - Tri Z front headlight

    It is pretty fun to ride! Suspension is pretty soft right now the rear shock works well but I think needs much better rebound and a stiffer spring but will trail ride it this summer to find out.
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  6. #21
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    More pics to see for fun

    Let me know if you like
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  7. #22
    Join Date
    May 2017
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    MN
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    When I built the rear shock tower I put it on stands and ran it so the knuckle would bind in full bottom out and then fully extended. Then made my mount...Didn't want the knuckle to bind in either situation and it seems to be perfect!

  8. #23
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    Apr 2014
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    Edmond, KS
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    Man. That thing looks great in all black.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trimoto225dx View Post
    When I built the rear shock tower I put it on stands and ran it so the knuckle would bind in full bottom out and then fully extended. Then made my mount...Didn't want the knuckle to bind in either situation and it seems to be perfect!
    I wonder if changing the angle and making it perform in a way it wasn't exactly designed for makes it less efficient, if that matters much with these kinda shocks. Did you try cranking down the spring yet?

    You can probably get modern 450 shocks cheap. Or just measure eye to eye and see what else can just bolt on so you don't have to adjust your mounts.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
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    Oxford CT, New Haven County
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trimoto225dx View Post
    After 8 months I finally got her just about 100% done!

    1985 Yamaha 225DX

    Following Mods

    1 - Timberwolf 250cc engine - Over hauled - Bored, head, clutch, cam, cam chain, cam bearing
    2 - Timberwolf rear swing arm, drive shaft and U-joint - Rear axle has all new brakes, bearings and seals
    3 - Tri Z 250 front fork- Rebuilt forks and disc brake
    4 - Tri Z front tire and rim with new tire and new axles
    5 - Tri Z front fender
    6 - Tri Z rear shock rebuilt and custom lower shock tower fabricated
    7 - Lots of other new parts such and battery, seat foam and cover and rear tires.
    8 - Tri Z front headlight

    It is pretty fun to ride! Suspension is pretty soft right now the rear shock works well but I think needs much better rebound and a stiffer spring but will trail ride it this summer to find out.
    Looks great... good job!

  11. #26
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    MN
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    The spring is cranked down all the way now...I have read that you could get stiffer springs for Tri Z back in the hay day...I will keep looking.

    When I gas it because of the shaft drive it really humps up! Feels like my Honday V65! Thinking if I had a better rebound that would help. It makes it more difficult to wheelie than OEM shock...And I suppose the swing arm is longer changes that as well.

    I was going to check if the timberwolf overall gearing is lower since it was a work machine vs sport. It seems like I don't get a lot of speed out if it...I have only road down the street and back. I am used to my Can am Renegade 800X which has real speed!!!

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Central PA
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    2,362
    You can get some good power out of them being geared low with some hop ups (I use to hill climb mine that's all hopped up) but speed is not one thing you can get out of them. Other than changing tire sizes.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    MN
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    Thinking about rear wheels spacers...maybe 1" ea side. Because it is taller now it wants to tip a little easier since center of gravity was raised.

    If I were to run it a lot where little suspension is needed could always lower the front forks and loosen the rear spring...Lower it down as much as possible.

    It will be fun to ride and see how it all works over time.

    I had a 84 brand new when I was 13...Loved everything about it but the horrible suspension and the crappy OEM tires.

    At the time I could have purchased a 200x or a 225DX...They were side by side...Choose the 225DX because it had electric start and shaft drive...After getting the 225DX and started riding it harder realized the 200x may have been a better choice as my battery holder broke off so e start was done and bent the rear axle...Obviously not made for jumping.

    A few of my buddies had the 225DX and we rode them hard always wanted them to have better suspension. Then saw some of this information on 3 wheeler world and all of a sudden I had a chance at this nice black one and a Timberwolf with locked up engine...Got them both for free from friends of mine...Pulled them out of the barns they had been in for many years and started this project!

    I would say if you don't get the parts cheap you would be in in for a lot of $$...I am in to this one for approx $1,500 to $1,800 and I didn't pay a dime for either ATV.

    Also if you do the Timberwolf rear swing arm with the 225 engine the boot won't fit. The TW boot fits the swing arm but not the 225 engine and reverse for the 225 boot. And if you mod the boot you will get the small U-joint from the 225 vs the larger one from the Timberwolf. Another advantage to the TW is the clutch is supposed to be and upgrade from the 225. Not to sure about that.

    If you don't want to do any wiring you will need to put the 225 stator in the 250 engine...Along with the 225 flywheel in the 250. Everything works correctly then. The TW 250 stator is much different than the 225dx...Looks like the TW has three phase A/C and the DX does not...All I know are the CDI wires are the same with different plug but the TW has 3 charging wires to the regulator and the DX has two...one to reg and one directly to headlight switch.

    Run down

    - Front triples and forks $100 and $75 to get the fork tubes straightened
    - Front fork oil and seals $30
    - Front Brake Pads $15
    - Front Fork Bearings $25
    - Handle Bars $75
    - Grips $7
    - Engine work, Piston, Clutch, Cam Chain, Cam Bushing, Oil and gasket set and machine work for bore job and head job. $600
    - Boot for U-Joint $75
    - Seat Foam and Cover..$150 + $30 to have it stretched on
    - Tires $200
    - Sand blast rims $20
    - Rim Paint $20
    -Rear brakes and cable $25
    - Jets for carb $10
    - Air Cleaner $20
    - Bulbs $15
    - Battery $75
    - Rear bearing kit $50

    Obviously you can get by for less without the engine work..And I had to straighten the forks and get all new tires...All factors in the price.

    Finale is to continue to polish the plastic as it is good structurally but and has a nice Matte finish now but would like it to shine again.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    Partlow, Va
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    curious if you know the year of blaster that will fit for the rear wheels and hubs, just aquired an 84 dxl and one of the first things i want to do is get rid of the 3 stud wheels, do to one being rusted, any help would be appreciated

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Oxford CT, New Haven County
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjtim316 View Post
    curious if you know the year of blaster that will fit for the rear wheels and hubs, just aquired an 84 dxl and one of the first things i want to do is get rid of the 3 stud wheels, do to one being rusted, any help would be appreciated
    I think any year will work as all the rear axles
    Seem to be the same.

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