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Thread: '82 'zuki alt125 PROBLEM....help???

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
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    Chico,CA.USA
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    '82 'zuki alt125 PROBLEM....help???

    Got a 1982 suzuki alt125 awhile back. Last owner said it ran fine....untill they broke the timing chain? They replaced it and were in the process of attempting to adjust it. So their post for 2 running 3wheelers for trade for ANY running small pickup,wasnt totally accurate?? But i took em at their word that itd run,and i was havin trouble getn rid of a extra vehicle that i wanted gone,so... anyways,i been trying to get the bike running,encountered and tackled various other problems that just needed fixed before timing. So its been a few bucks and months,and i still cant even get a sputter outta it?? Whats weird is goin off the timing diagram that is memorized now,theres one inconsistancy. The cam gear in the diagram and pics ive found has 2 bolt holes and the pin hole. The gear on my cam has 5 holes?? Ive kept the bolts in the holes they were in(marked from tightening), not sure what the other 2 holes are for? The pin holes offset so im sure thats right. Could it be they got an aftermarket universal cam gear and the bolts go in the other holes?? It just seems the lobes on the cam arent in the right possition when i have the piston at tdc? Besides that the mikuni carbs a stubborn azz. Cleaned that and all seems ok. The plunge primer deals not leaking,and when it turns over the intake piece is suckin gas,i know this because i found it is broke. The steel fitting pulled outta the dang thing so when i pull a lil gas comes out the crack. In the process of fixing. One thing im lost on..besides the intake gas line from the tank,where do the other lines go? Im not sure theyre correct? Mainly cuz a couple just were hanging nowhere?? And reading posts on here,my bike has no petcock valve?? Down by the tank where i suppose it may go theres a funky round flat plastic black thing that the hoses from the tank go to? One runs to the intake,one to the bottom of the float bowl for the primer. Then theres a hose comin out next to the throttle on the carb that just had a bolt plugging it,another hose on the other side of the float bowl that runs behind the motor(overflow??) And yet another overflow nowhere hose from the fill hole on the gas tank. Not sure why i cant get a sputter?? Got gas,spark.. even starter fluid straight in wont do nada??? Any ideas?? The more detailed the better?? Im going over the wiring with the diagram,test lights ohmeter,electrical tape if needed just to see if the on off switch is broke or somethins crossed or grounded out? Headlights gone,sockets still there,tail lights gone but unplugged. Not sure eithers an issue? I got some of that clay putty steel stuff to fix the intake port,so thatll take a bit to harden proper. Im determined to get this thing goin. Internally the bike seems sound? Nothin got bent when timing chain broke? They were just crawling slow huntin ducks. Not sure if they backed out the tappet bolts or not? Everythings got a nice smooth sound when pulling cord,good compression?? IDK???? Besides needing new plastic for an 82 its in good shape. Odometers supposed to be accurate,4302 miles on it?? Probly 20 of thats movin it around to work on or store it. Its been garaged. Cant get it runnin,but 2 rusty lawnmowers that been rained on for years i got runnin good in a couple hours with less than $10?? Crapola!! Anyone round chico ca that gets this thing fired up,ill give em a lawnmower that runs,an a 12 pack....lol. uh if yer 21!!lol. No but any ideas would be sweet. Time to put shiny new radiator in my 72 chevy pickup....maybe?? Yes it runs fine,thanks. Just Zuki probs. "WILL TRADE FOR HONDA 110,125?? 90 MAYBE???" LOL. late.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    snyder texas
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    456
    post some pics of the fuel hookups should be a vacuum fuel pump thats why the primer is needed hose at tank routes towards front then turns across and back it is a vent for tank since cap is not vented i have an 84 lt 125 quad that is most likely same but does have a fuel shut off valve at the pump area will get some pics posted to maybe help you out any of you guys with alt's correct me if i steer him wrong
    you know whats right therefore you know what is expected

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Oxford CT, New Haven County
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    983
    gas, comp, spark? it should run...

    Is the spark nice and strong or does it look weak?

    Got a wife or Girl friend? If so, attach the plug to the plug wire, tell her to hold it a sec. then give the trike a good pull, depending on how big a bruise you end up with after she smacks you, that's how you'll be able to tell if your spark was strong enough!

    did you try spraying the starter fluid right into the cylinder or just in the carb?

    Is the spark plug ok?
    Is it gapped right?
    Is it even the right plug for the trike?

    My DXN when I got it would fire up in one pull but if it stalled or I shut it off it wouldn't start again till the next day....turns out the brand new carb the previous owner put on it was so Effed up, it was flooding the piss out of its self and id have to wait for it to dry its self up.
    then I had a thought, why not put all the parts from the original carb into the new one? Once I did that, she fired right up and ran like a champ! And I was going nuts looking at all the electrical stuff and wondering if something was shorting out or not... lol
    Good Luck

  4. #4
    brd812's Avatar
    brd812 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Roaming Shores, Ohio, United States
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    238
    I would try a remote tank and let gravity feed the carb to see if she'll run. there is a primer on one side, prime it until it stops dont force it. If it runs fine that way, you have a vac leak from the intake to the pump or bad fuel pump. That's were I would start, I've had my alt since 84 and she's a tank.
    "If you are going to piss like puppy, Don't Get Off The Porch"
    Trikes:
    84' Suzuki ALT185 (old Orange)
    85' Yamaha 225DX, piped and spaced ( First Girlfriend)
    Quads
    87' Yamaha Banshee, built and very very fast (The Whore)
    01 Yamaha Raptor 660, built and piped (The Beast)
    03 Suzuki Vinson, 26's and piped (The Crowd Pleaser)
    Once apon a time:
    85' Tecate 300 alky flattacker, 6 in over swingarm, 88 Suzuki 500"Quadzilla"PIA , 91 Yamaha Warrior Built and Modded. (luved that Baby Tank)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Chico,CA.USA
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    Thanks for the replies guys. I been having trouble posting pics,but will try again in a bit. Yesterday,i decided to go over the electrical wires and found 2 crimped spots and mended them. Then i went wire by wire to make sure everything was in its proper place,fixed the fuel intake fitting in front of the carb,and everything back together i pulled the plug and whatever i did to the wiring made a major difference. Didnt need to hold it to metal cuz i could hear the spark! Damn cant figure out how to post pics?? Had em uploaded,sorta? Cant drag drop stuff on a phone? I was just tryin to answer a reply and been stuck here tryin to do anything?? Ill stick to plyers,wrenches and welders? This forum stuff or interweb craps a B#*%h to figure out.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Edmond, KS
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    2,531
    Sometimes that's all that's wrong, something small like that. Glad to hear that you have spark now.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Chico,CA.USA
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    13
    I GOT THE LIL ZUKI RUNNIN TODAY!!! RUNS LIKE A TOP. Small idling problem? idles fine with choke pulled,even rides fine? no bog down,can ride wheelies in 2nd. shifts smooth. bikes showing some promise. may be just the idle set screw. it also leaks a lil outta the prime plunger?? outta the hole in the bottom of the plunger? diaphrams fine? I guess havin the think start and ride around pretty good, should be good for putting almost no money in the thing.. Back to the drawing board I guess?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    snyder texas
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    456
    if running with choke on carb is still dirty gotta pull all jets and screws poke thru with small wire or twistee then compressed air to clean all out if primer is leaking either diaphragms leaking or not in place correctly
    you know whats right therefore you know what is expected

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Chico,CA.USA
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    13

    Its an '83 alt 125.. and ITS ALIVE!!!!

    IT RUNS!!! VERY GOOD!!! Surprise ye wife of little faith. Said the husband of 15+ years as engine blood dripped from his magic hands. Oh im awake. But yes the zuki lives to ride on. Had the timing set right. It was the valves that needed adjusted. Too tight. Set both around .04 on the feeler guage. Wasnt gonna try to start it cuz i figured dissappointment. But my drill was there and the socket was on so what the hell?? Pulled the choke,pulled the primer till it pressured up and i hit it with the drill expectting the same sad blubbering and stinky backfires?? Had the stereo on too,so the drills a spinnin and im surprized,i think im hearin a different sound?? And instead of backfires theres lil puffs of white smoke comin from the tailpipe?? This is weird. And the drill was kinda jumpin in my hand?? So i thought maybe its tryin to start,so i reached up an hit the throttlee a lil?? And the drill was ripped outta my hand with a huge rumble from the exhuast..... the lil 125 was running 2 seconds after id started the drill and i didnt fully know because of the radio!! I jumped on,threw in gear and rode circles in my tiny back yard on two wheels then went back to the porch. Idles smooth and fine and rides fine,no power loss,with the choke out. Choke in...dies shortly unless giving throttle?? Mayybe mess with valves again?? Throttle play adjust maybe? Ideas?? Tried adjusting idle screw. High rev happens. Very touchy. And since it only idles with the choke pulled high rev fluctuates bad.real high. I do have it where it idles nice and smooth choked. Unchoked fluttering the throttle i get the high rev or tryin to back off slowly it wont go to an idle,have to give a lil gas to keep it going?? It doesnt vibrate or have any abnormal sounds at any time. I dont like high revs at all so am reachin out for advice before i mes with it later?? The only other probs i have is smoke at exhaust bracket. Oil may have got in the pipe? Had to put bike almost on its side to get it in the front gate. Hoping it just burns off after a lil ride or two?? Other prob is gas shoots out of the lil hole in bottom of the primer plunger when pullin out,drips barely otherwise a lil?? Diaphram is in ok condition. Ideas?? Could any of the idle issues be that i havent put the piece from carb to air box on? Or should i just tighten the throttle play adjustment till it idles without choked,then fine tune it with the idle screw?? Any ideas apreciated greatly. Thank u. Respects. Nate. Ill check back in a bit.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Chico,CA.USA
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    Hi danbur55. I went through an cleaned jets and adjusting screws an all that. Didnt find nothing? Not sure why i cant get primer diaphram seated right either. But my main issue is getn it to idle good without the choke pulled? While messin around with the throttle play and adjusting screw i noticed something.. after the motor warms up the choke went back down by itself?? Is that normal for these top pull chokes?? Anyways i had it idling,not perfect but ok when i noticed the choke wasnt out anymore. Still leaking a lil so that might account for kinda rough idle,maybe? And the high rev i think might be cuz someone before me musta been runnin the adjusting screw in an out like crazy cuz theres a slight groove worn into the inside of the throttle,so when i think i got a nice even low idle give it gas a few times to see and seems fine for a sec then revs up again by itself?? Nutty dang zuki!!! Also noticed theres a split at the top of the chokes rubber boot where it connects to the carb,so i think the cables not as tight as it should be cuz the metal wire guides sitn lower due to the split. Only think this because if the choke goes down itself when it heats it would only close as much as it was supposed to right?? Like my old chevy trucks kickdown? So when i push the choke down more its takin up the natural slack and killin the motor? Could i put a hose clamp at the cracked spot to hold the cable in the right spot till i get a new rubber boot?? And totally not sure what to do bout the primer?? It says to face the hole down,but it wasnt pointed down when i first cleaned the carb,and moving it was the start of the leak. Boy. What a mess. Sorry for chewin yer ear but outta all the answers ive gotten urs seems to be closest to the page im on?? No offense everyone else.... any answers worth readin. If i knew how to post pics i would. If i knew how much to ask for this old thing now that it runs and rides,i might just pass it on to someone that has $$ to put in it so i dont rekill it?? Lol. Im determined to take my 3 girls ridin. That was the first plan so... thanks aheada time if u take time to reply again? Late. Will keep tryin to post pics?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    snyder texas
    --
    456
    hey gearenvy the choke boot is mainly a dust cover dont clamp it your primer diaphragm has a pinhole or small crack in it imagine the PO turned weep hole up to stop or slow drip it should be pointed down like a water pump weep hole to let you know that its going out do you have free travel on throttle (thumb throttle moves 3/8 to 1/2" before slide in carb moves ??) which slot is the main needle clip in? the hi rev leads me to think you have a vacuum leak, intake, line, fuel pump, or somewhere choke falling on its own is a puzzle but if it only idles good with choke on then it is compensating for vacuum leak or blockage in pilot circuit while its running spray carb cleaner or something around all possible areas to see if idle changes
    you know whats right therefore you know what is expected

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Chico,CA.USA
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    13
    PiThanks lots danburr. I really appreciate the advice youve been giving man. Its helping out alot. I got lots of auto tech under my belt,and should be remembering the lil things. Just been a bit. I will put the air box connecting boot on since i do have it running. And i may have to back throttle play a lil. I have a few extra lil rubber seals for my adjusting screws so ill chance em cuz they keep getn chewed up slighty goin in and out? Then ill sniff out some leaks later. Was lookin on ebay for a new plunger/diaphram,no luck. I held a light behind this one and couldnt find pinholes. Did notice a couple small cracks in the ring around diaphram. Not all the way through,but probly not helping. Made a very thin rubber "gasket" from the end of a car radiator cap. I know? But limited on options. It just happened to be the sam diameter as the outter diaphram ring,so figured id slice it down and place it on the outter ring and see if it works till i find a diaphram?? Mainly cuz i dont need gas drippin on my open stater? Keepin the pull start off till i work bugs out. Stress the drill,not the back an shoulders.lol. anyways thank u alot. Have a great day. Oh yeah..main needle clip is one notch down from the top. Not sure if thats right,but i never moved it from where it was?? I do think PO didnt appreciate what they had? After alotta ready and history on 3wheelers this is a pretty special piece of history. I am glad that the internals are pretty nice for the age. 4300 miles aint bad ,if correct? Rides nice,the lil i.ve gone? Thanks. Good day. Book # 10...lol.
    Last edited by GearENVY~SP; 10-10-2014 at 12:02 PM.

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