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Thread: Someone school me in jetting a pinger...

  1. #16
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    Sounds good guys... I will start checking the suggestions, one at a time, and report back my findings... Thank you all for the input!

    007, it didn't start the "occasional" running really good, till I made that last needle adjustment. Before the needle adjustment, it ran consistently crappy on the top end... What's the real difference between a resistor plug and non? (Besides for radio interference)
    Last edited by Thorpe; 09-16-2014 at 10:39 PM.
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  2. #17
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    In all honesty, I have run both resistor and non resistor type plugs and I haven't experienced a difference myself. I run BR9's in my R's currently and usually get a full season of trouble free running out of them...

    With our old machines, I don't think it makes much of a difference. But I can tell you from experience that resistor type plugs are more important on some newer, more sophisticated stuff due to the RF interference sometimes negatively effecting some of the "smart" ignition systems. I had an '02 Ski-Doo sled with electronic reverse. When you push the reverse button it would literally kill the engine and just before all motion stopped it would re-fire and run the engine backwards for reverse operation. I made the rookie mistake of running non-resistor plugs in that sled when I first got it. It would stall and fail to get into reverse often and also going back into forward. The non resistor plugs interfered enough with the ignition system that it caused it to malfunction in this way. Switch to resistor plugs and it all went away and worked perfectly.

    Sorry about the long story... just my personal experience in the matter. I just don't think it is cause for too much worry as long as the plug is in good condition and properly gapped.
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  3. #18
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    Yes, resistors are for radio waves,,bugging your tv signal etc. And they do work. And as Ridered said, some newer sleds need to have them. Personally,, tens and tens of thousands of miles on sleds. And however many miles on R's,Quad Racers and Banshees. Resistors fouled far too quickly. JMHO,,never liked em Back to the Odyssey, if jetting changes affected it positively. Keep going that direction lol. I would put your needle in the middle groove and drop 2 main jet sizes. Run it around a few miles,with a good top end run at the end,and check your plug. I'm not getting into the whole"plug chop" here. This is how I've done it for 30+ years now. Nice dry brown is all pirtyy,,but I much prefer a dry black,unless you're sitting in the pits at a race track. Weather changes etc,black runs almost as good,and you have a safety blanket for a little leaner conditions....Funny reading Billy's post. I used to jet my sleds to run 10's and Idle at 450RPM,, When 8's or 9's were recommended. Now I just ride them lol...
    Please help those who cannot help themselves.

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  4. #19
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    Only had a few minutes to tinker with it today... Tried fogging some ether around all the potential air leak spots with zero rpm change. Just for kicks, left the greasy air filter on and popped the airbox lid off, and took it for a rip, and it pulls perfect everywhere thru the throttle (need earplugs for that!) gonna clean the snot out of he filter and lightly oil, reassemble and see how it acts tomorrow.

    How often should reeds be replaced? Is there a large difference from oem style to say "boyesen power reeds"?
    No trikes. Too old, too crippled. Unless I find one I can't live without!
    "You cant fix stupid" ~ Ron White
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  5. #20
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    Reeds will give you a noticeable improvement. Not night and day,but noticeable.
    Please help those who cannot help themselves.

    ALWAYS buying Museum quality machines,3 and 4 wheels. And any and ALL ,NOS parts,EVERY brand.

    I am turning my PM's Off,my Email is billsracing@hotmail.com,put 3WW in the subject. Thanx!

    Gun laws do not stop criminals. BULLETS do.

  6. #21
    Billy Golightly's Avatar
    Billy Golightly is offline Always finding new and exciting ways to not give a hoot in hell Catch me if you can
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    It probably already has aftermarket ones - I'd find it unlikely to still have the original spring steel OEM type (although it is possible of course). Its a barely noticeable, but noticeable, improvement going to fiberglass ones. Changing out the entire cage assembly is what makes the difference.

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