First Time Rider
Arm chair racerNew to the board
When I was troubleshooting my carb problems this weekend, I installed a clear tubing for the fuel line and a see through in line filter. With that installed you can verify fuel flow from the tank and catch any debris that could be stopping up your jets. I was getting flakes of rust in mine.
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I have that now. There's NOTHING that my eye can see getting in there.Originally Posted by e5earley
I was just remembering something about what this does when it's dying. I had this ATV down in the bottom field about 1/2 mile from home when it died like this. I let it cool down a while and then got it started up. It will ALWAYS die if it's acting up when I put it in gear unless I'ming the throttle. I did this and got it to drive all the way home. I had to stay on the throttle pretty hard the whole way home but I did get it here. As soon as I let it idle down by the garage, it died. And, wouldn't start. Is there a shut off on the ATV when it goes into gear for something? I have no idea, it was just a thought. I really want to get this running but don't have a ton of money to pay someone to work on it for me. And, I have a feeling it is going to cost some labor hours to figure out what is wrong with it...
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerFirst time rider
Do you have good fuel flow from the tank? Pull the fuel line off at the carb and let it drain into a container for a while to check.
Check the on/off and key switch for loose or bad connections.
First Time Rider
Arm chair racerNew to the board
Did the mechanic adjust the valves or did you check the clearance? Can't see that being the problem but I spouse it could if they were waaaay outta spec.
The thing with having to wail on the throttle sounds like a plugged primary to me. Read the shop manual it tells you how to do everything you need to do.
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Arm chair racerNew to the board
The deal is, this is a new carburetor. It wouldn't have clogged that fast. Not to do the EXACT SAME THING! I can see into the gas line running from the tank to the carb. I put a new gas line in, along with an inline fuel filter. There's nothing in that line at all. I'm hoping my dad will be able to help me in the near future, but time will tell!
First Time Rider
Arm chair racerNew to the board
I would try what cap suggested. If you're getting good consistent fuel flow through the valve, then you can more than likely rule out fuel delivery as your problem. Then it's back to checking electrical.
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Arm chair racerNew to the board
I am definitely going to try this in a little bit. I know it's not the kill switch because we bypassed that just because it was a little loose. It wasn't that though because it was doing it before we bypassed it and it's still doing it now. I'm going to check for fuel flow down through the carb. If that's not it, it'll be back to square one!
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Arm chair racerNew to the board
I pulled the line off of the carb and I let about a pint of fuel go through. I had the same flow at the end of the test that I did at the beginning. I don't think fuel delivery is my problem. I'm guessing it's back to electrical.
First Time Rider
Arm chair racerNew to the board
If you put a drop of gas in the combustion chamber, put the plug back in and then crank it, you will know for sure. If it fires, you know it's fuel. If not, probably ignition or compression, valves, etc.
I can't remember, did you say it has decent compression?
Even if the carb was plugged up, I've never seen one that wouldn't fire at least a little bit--usually run like crap but almost always will at least start. But just so you know, it only takes a chunk of something that is 80 microns to plug it up. Visible to the human eye, but you wouldn't be able to tell until you took the carb apart. Since you replaced the carb, and it ran, even for just a little while, that is telling you it might be fuel related. But that also doesn't mean that the carb is plugged up either.
You really need to be systematic about it. Go through all the checks in the manual. You know it has spark. You need to wet the plug and check to see if it will fire with manually delivered gas. Check compression. I would recommend checking valve clearance, at least check the physical timing, etc. All these things are in the manual, although the Honda manuals are a little sparse on details, they do help.
I can't remember what you had--is it electric start? If so, there is a chance the starter could be grounding out if the bushings are bad--I've seen them where it drains the electrical and CDI so bad that they won't start, but that's not very likely.
Again, just eliminate each thing one thing at a time.
If you feel like a road trip, bring it west on I-70 and I'll fix it for ya--no charge--otherwise, I can just tell you to do all the regular checks a mechanic does to find the problem. I admire your grit in tearing into the problem, but it's kinda like doing an algebra equation. Do one step at time--and fully eliminate each item until you figure it out. It can be frustrating, but that's what you have to do. I take it you are a young guy--I was 15 when I started working on these things, and didn't know much. I just read the manuals until I memorized them, and took everything apart and looked and studied, and listened to older people that knew what to do, and learned. That's how you do it, just one thing at a time! You'll get it--don't get discouraged!
First Time Rider
Arm chair racerNew to the board
Definitely don't get discouraged. I've got a Chinese 110cc honda clone that is kicking my butt. I'm sure when I figure it out it will be something simple that I have missed.
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Arm chair racerNew to the board
Time to bring up an old thread. This ATV is kicking my tail. I've worked on it and worked on it. It still does the same thing. I'm just about to slap a "for sale" sign on it and buy something that runs.
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