1987 ATC 330R Build.

[hatc200x1]

I was originally planning to use the non powervalve. Are you saying I should get the powervalve because they cool better? My engine set up is still debatable, not quite ready to order it.

Haha thanks Joe!! I doubt it will be as nice though! You got one cherry R man!

[RIDE-RED 250r]

My experience: I am not running the PV. ESR recommends an 80/20 mix of water/antifreeze, no doubt to help it run cooler. Also, as Bob Marlin said be a little generous with your jetting. You wont need to dial it on in the ragged edge, that 330 stroker is going to run. Let it eat a little. Not blubbery and sluggish, just a bit on the safer side if that makes any sense.

[hatc200x1]

I am getting an APT smart carb for it. So I really can't "jet" it. I guess we will have to see how she runs and go from there.

[BOB MARLIN]

I'd save the money and go with the non power valve. The 330 is almost a square bore, so it makes good torque. I know a couple of guys that ran the PV's and had them come apart. They both run the non PV now and are quite happy with them. Just keep an eye on your engine temps. Mine runs well over 220 deg. I have pulled the cylinder to check for damage and found nothing, so apparently they can handle it.

[RIDE-RED 250r]

^^^agreed^^^

The 330 with a +4 crank seems to be a popular and widely loved combination! That's going to run good!
I almost went with that exact setup, but after seeing where the trikes have a degree of spark plug clearance issues when running longer strokes I decided to go with a straight 350. It's not only the deck height increase, bit the fact that the ESR heads don't angle the spark plug. Makes it tight. With my setup I am able to still run a standard plug, I just have to run a small plug cap. And I am still running the short rod too....

[Darius1502]

Stunning work! I know how much time and effort it takes just to refresh one of these things ... much less do what you are doing! Hats off to you Sir!

I can't wait to see the finished result!!

[hatc200x1]

Bran new wheels and tires are on the way for this baby. That includes a 10 inch front wheel, Douglas 10x8 rear wheels, Kenda front max for the front, and Kenda scorpions for the rear!! This baby should be rolling around on 3 tires within 2 weeks!

[hatc200x1]

Got some progress guys, finally got her on 3 wheels! It feels great!!! To get the brake stay snap ring to sit I had to take a die grinder and grind a good amount on both sides of the swingarm, file it down 100% flat, and then I also had to remove some material on the brake stay it self, WOW that took a while. The edges of the swingarm were definitely dinged up pretty good.

[Samjp22]

im liking the white and red! And just curious, is the axle not completely assembled, from the rear picture can still see where the snap ring goes in and the space thats supposed to be filled by the axle nut that goes up against the snap ring

[hatc200x1]

im liking the white and red! And just curious, is the axle not completely assembled, from the rear picture can still see where the snap ring goes in and the space thats supposed to be filled by the axle nut that goes up against the snap ring

Excellent question!! I never took apart a liquid r before since I got all of these pretty much 100% disassembled so I really didn't know all I needed. I knew something was wrong as soon as I slid the axle nut on and asked my self how the crap does it tighten anything??? Haha.. I already got a spacer and cir-clip on the way for it to get that all buttoned up.

[Samjp22]

I'm still confused, it's an LSR +4 right? Shouldnt need a spacer, I have the exact axle on my 85R, and I used all the stock components off the original axle minus the LSR sprocket hub and 86 sprocket

[hatc200x1]

Yes it is an LSR +4. I don't see why it wouldn't need a spacer? Yup I'm running an 86 sprocket, and OEM brake hub (thanks Mr. Clean and Tim!!). It appears fully that I will need the spacer between the axle nut and the cir-clip on the axle. Any input on this from other people with the LSR axle set up?

[Samjp22]

Like the big axle nut should be able to thread most of the way out, there will be quite the gap between the locking nut and sprocket as shown in this picture of mine

[hatc200x1]

Thats not how it is supposed to be. The spacer actually cups around the cir clip so it doesn't fall off, see pic of ATV on Demand's 250R with the LSR axle. Your just asking for trouble not having that spacer cup around and hold that cir-clip from coming off.

[Samjp22]

I'm using the factory spacer the cups around/over the snap ring and it's still fully torqued to spec. The distance from the sprocket hub to the groove is exactly the same or damn near on the stock and LSR axle. All I see that spacer doing is allowing more threads to be on that threaded sleeve with the splines inside it.