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Thread: Header options on ATC 200/200x pre '86

  1. #46
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    so DG is just over 1 and a 1/4" while supertrap is just under. sounds about right. so unless your stroking the motor i would definatly not touch the 1.5" range. i would aim for 1.25" as a goal for sizing agian unless stroking.
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  2. #47
    Dave8338's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scootertrash View Post
    Where did you find the extensions for the die grinder(s)? are they 1/8 or 1/4 extensions? Found the micro grinder at HF but I'm having trouble locating extensions.
    I maybe misspoke when using the word "extension". The bits themselves have a ~2" longer shank on them, vs. the shorties. As for where I get them..... I know some have come from Sears, some from Northern tool, etc. Basically, when I need a different bit, I go get it.
    The Goal... All I Need Is The Time...

  3. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by oscarmayer View Post
    so DG is just over 1 and a 1/4" while supertrap is just under. sounds about right. so unless your stroking the motor i would definatly not touch the 1.5" range. i would aim for 1.25" as a goal for sizing agian unless stroking.
    Yeah... wondering about that. May have to rethink the header a bit. Not going to be a stroker, that's for sure. Thanks for the verification.
    Decisions, decisions, decisions.....

    I'm going to look at an extra set of pipes that I have for one of my bikes. They are a tube within a tube. See what size the inner tubing actually is. Displacement on that one is 850cc.
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  4. #49
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    Go BIG, or go home ! ! ! ! !

    I've decided to go with the TRX pipe. I'll have to tighten a few bends, cut it in one place and rotate it 180 degrees, re-weld, and that is just the head pipe.

    I've done a LOT of thinking on this: Since I have the ability to regulate the back pressure using the Super Trapp setup, the only other variable would be to tune the exhaust for a specific resonance.
    For example: depending on the RPM, head port shape, exit diameter of the port, pipe sizing after said port, and speed of the negative pressure wave that follows the initial exhaust pulse.........and cam timing; (do you see why I'm just going to go for it) ?

    I am convinced that I have nothing to gain, by keeping the header pipe sizing to what other aftermarket companies determined to be "optimal". That specific size may have more to do with getting it to clear the down tube, than it does a "best size" for said engine.

    Just a thought.

    I have used their mufflers in the past, for the very reason that the exhaust back pressure, can be regulated/tuned. More disks= less back pressure. Fewer disks= more back pressure. Tuning for an exact RPM based on pipe sizing , on this project, ain't going to happen.....

    Stay tuned... nut on the loose....................................
    The Goal... All I Need Is The Time...

  5. #50
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    Since I've committed myself (some would argue that I've missed the turn into the sanitarium...) to the TRX pipe, I would like to shed a bit more detail as to why. After measuring three of the 4-stroke, two valve bikes that I have, I found this to be the case: All had larger exhaust pipe ID's than they did exhaust valve size. And all had a graduating exhaust pipe diameter from point of entry, to point of exit. There must be a reason.... In addition, ALL put more power to the ground on a CC to HP basis. From this, along with the carb sizing (two of the three have 32mm CV carbs with one being fewer cc's per cylinder and one being just over (212 cc's)), it is my thought that I must be somewhere in the middle of all of this. Time will tell...

    Here is the TRX pipe, just prior to the mini-die attack:


    Here is the other reason for this specific combo:


    The TRX header is exactly the OD size that I need to combine with the Super Trapp...

    There really is a method to my madness......................
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  6. #51
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    Took the time to swap out the front sprocket (Sun-Star #12) and was running out of daylight. No room, or time to make room, for climate control.
    Thought I would show what almost 2-years of abuse and nary a shower, looks like:





    She threw her necklace at me last summer as a result of another idler failure. This IS changing. Still not convinced that I have enough height with the sprocket change, but in worse case scenario... the angle will improve = less force on the bearings...

    Sprocket size, sorted out in this thread:
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...uick-question)



    Now, to have a friend machine me a stainless "bushing" for the header/port connection.
    Last edited by Dave8338; 02-26-2015 at 07:46 PM.
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  7. #52
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    A real live Powroll set up ! Mickey... couldn't help but notice the similarities between the logo, and my little project. +





    Looking forward to getting this thing together. New paint scheme is already in order. Silver frame..........
    The Goal... All I Need Is The Time...

  8. #53
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    Couldn't help myself ! I have a new cylinder on the way...

    Wanted a bit of a different "look".

    I'll have enough extra new parts to build a complete spare, minus the lower cases. Getting ready to pull the old 185 and tear it down. Time for some clean, assembly fun.
    Last edited by Dave8338; 02-23-2015 at 08:00 PM.
    The Goal... All I Need Is The Time...

  9. #54
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    Gonna be auto x then? 1985 motor im guessing?
    1982 big red
    1974 atc 90
    Life is hard, but its harder if you're stupid - John Wayne

  10. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by thcowboy View Post
    Gonna be auto x then? 1985 motor im guessing?

    Auto X for certain.

    As for the engine, the cases are from my 1982 185 (the engine in the bike above). The jug (supposed to be in the mail) is/will be new aftermarket, sourced for one... on two-wheels...
    The head and and rocker box are from a 1984 200M if I remember correctly.
    Other than the trans gears/and a re-rod'ed crank, the rest of the rotating mass is a combo of parts I've collected over the years. Some have been made to my liking.
    The Goal... All I Need Is The Time...

  11. #56
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    Didn't put two and two together until this morning. Bruce (Blue27) will have some of his handy work, on this project. Bought a recoil decal on Evilbay yesterday and it turns out that it is from Blue Line Graphics. Thanks, Bruce !

    Side note/question: Does anybody have the bolt hole spacing distance for the parking brake block off plate for a TRX / 250R / ?? Would like to source an existing piece as opposed to spending time making my own. It will not be used for the rear caliper... another application. Thanks.
    Last edited by Dave8338; 02-24-2015 at 12:46 PM.
    The Goal... All I Need Is The Time...

  12. #57
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    New cylinder arrived today. Will bring a bit of a change to things and allow for even more change if/when I want to.

    No replacement for displacement, as the old saying goes...

    If anybody knows the distance, center to center, of the bolt holes for the rear brake block off plate on a 250R, that would be helpful.

    Thanks
    The Goal... All I Need Is The Time...

  13. #58
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    Most if not all block off plates are interchangable. I have a 400ex plate on my 82R. Not sure if the later liquid cooled R's are different.
    82 250r
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  14. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bren_downe View Post
    Most if not all block off plates are interchangable. I have a 400ex plate on my 82R. Not sure if the later liquid cooled R's are different.
    Sure appears that way. The 400EX block off plate is the same as the earlier 250R from what I've been reading. I need to know the bolt hole spacing. Will be using the block off plate in a different application. Spacing needs to be ~41mm center to center, for it to work.
    I'll have to dig around and see what I can come up with.

    Thanks for the feed back. Much appreciated.

    Dave
    The Goal... All I Need Is The Time...

  15. #60
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    Well at this point, I'm working with two different cylinder heights and three wrist pin locations. Rod lengths and cranks are stock.

    Should make for an interesting assembly process. From initial measurements, I "should" be able to get away with a mix and match set up that allows for a couple different compression ratios, without too much difficulty. Gasket thickness and planing will hopefully fine tune the system. That however, remains to be seen...
    Vernier sprocket on the way to aid the cam timing. I'm still a bit leery on the valve clearance. All of it, will go together and apart at least a dozen times, before it is ready to run.

    Still looking for a measurement on the block of plate. Buler... McFly... does anybod out there, have a few seconds and a tape or caliper, to grab that measurement for me? Please...

    A couple of the new union. We gained a bit, with this set up.





    Last edited by Dave8338; 02-27-2015 at 11:11 PM.
    The Goal... All I Need Is The Time...

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