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Thread: 200x 83'-85' head flow numbers.

  1. #31
    Billy Golightly's Avatar
    Billy Golightly is offline Always finding new and exciting ways to not give a hoot in hell Catch me if you can
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    30hp out of a 200x would be...

  2. #32
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    Dave8338 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    The general rule of thumb (though it is much like an oil thread...) on polishing runners is that the exhaust port and runner should be mirror smooth as imperfections only slow things down. Hot gas, move it fast.

    On the intake, my experience has been this: Depending on the port size and charge velocity, it is possible for the air/fuel mix to precipitate out and form tiny droplets on the bottom side of the intake runner BUT, this also has as much to do with the shape of the port/runner and carb sizing as it does to the actual roughness or finished texture of the intake. Also air temps can play into effect. The colder the ambient air temp, the more likely precipitation can occur. My thought has always been, if the air/fuel ratio is correct going through the carb, then it is not likely to puddle on the intake floor. If things are set rich, then yes... it can happen. I would rather adjust the A/F ratio and have the carb dialed in using "known" jet flow rates that in themselves are adjustable by size, than to try correct the problem, through texture in the intake runner. Also, if you think about it, for every little scratch/depression left in the intake designed to "help" keep the A/F mixture in suspension, there is a tiny low pressure side, just opposite of that scratch, in the flow direction. That in itself, could lead to puddling.

    Finish the inside with the little scotch bright type pads for the dremel, after the porting and I think you get the best of both potential worlds...

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  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironchop View Post
    two questions

    I`ve had some conflicting answers from local builders about "polishing"

    some builders told me NOT to make the intake runner glass smooth but maybe a tiny bit rough because of something called "fuel shear?" but that I should polish the exhaust runner as smooth as I can get it. Now I don`t know enough to say wether this applied to a two-valve motor motor or not as he builds and races newer machines with more valves. What are your experiences and did I misunderstand what they were telling me?

    We used to back-cut the radius between the valve and stem on our bracket drag cars for more flow but it wasn`t a lathe cut on the valve on backside of the seat area but rather I grinded them in a spin fixture on a precision grinder making the radius between the stem and the big part (name escapes me) smaller. This is NOT what you meant by a 30 degree back-cut, right?

    I like your website, BTW.

    You keep intake ports more on the coarse side and smoother on the ex just to keep the carbon from building up mainly.

    From left to right, stock 200x, stock big valve, FST big valve.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #34
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    My new 70 engine is 70mm stroke, 72mm bore, 34mm inlet, 28mm exhaust valves.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by greenhuman View Post
    My new 70 engine is 70mm stroke, 72mm bore, 34mm inlet, 28mm exhaust valves.

    you have a 285cc atc 70?

  6. #36
    Billy Golightly's Avatar
    Billy Golightly is offline Always finding new and exciting ways to not give a hoot in hell Catch me if you can
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    Yes he does but it may not be what you're thinking Mickey...lol. It is still a 70 though (Mostly)

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Billy Golightly View Post
    Yes he does but it may not be what you're thinking Mickey...lol. It is still a 70 though (Mostly)
    OK I thought something was up. It's a 70 frame. lol

  8. #38
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    yea, stroked and such I can see making in the 20's with tons of work.
    the xlr200 was at the flywheel in those listings not wheel power.
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  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Billy Golightly View Post
    30hp out of a 200x would be...
    Is that a challenge sir? ;-) did Billy just throw the gauntlet down? OMG!!!! he went there!!!

    The race to see who can break the 30hp mark with a 200x. (Clock ticking)
    LOL
    it's on like donkey kong!!!!

    The Goal: To make true 30+hp off a 200x engine in a 200x trike on a real load bearing dyno.
    The Rules:
    - Must be real wheel power
    - Must be complete 200X bottom end. cases, trans and such. no taking 350x or some other setup and using it. be honest and fair. If we can get real 30hp out of this, we are talking tons of hits form magazines and that helps the trike community. so lets help each other out.
    - Must use a load bearing dyno with posted settings (no faking altitude and no "fixed" numbers meaning no having the dyno computer adjust numbers "after the run" like some do for "corrections". that is fudged numbers. I want raw numbers posted.
    - No power adders. all raw power only.. (No NOAAAZZZZzzzzzzz) :-p
    - No bore or stroke limits. We must use a REAL Honda 200x cylinder casting at least. sleeving is ok no using custom manufactured cylinders or Chinese cylinders)
    - Again we must keep to honest original parts. you will be asked to post a listing and spec of all your parts and maybe even photos when done. if you truly do break 30HP, You get to call your self "Da MAN" for 1 year till the next contest. No one else will be allowed to use that title on the forum.


    Remember everyone this is for fun and bragging rights. We have till 2016 to make this happen. This gives everyone time to research, and get things done. plus if we do have more than 1 make those numbers and be able to call it reliable, then I can assure you, we will have a lot of people knocking on our doors.


    Any Takers?

    oscarmayer is first to sign up.
    Who else is willing to give it a go?

    Billy should we start a new thread and you sticky it?
    Last edited by oscarmayer; 01-31-2015 at 11:50 AM.
    ________________
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    "Freedom is not free...but the U.S. Marine Corps will pay most of your share."

  10. #40
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    With the way the cam grinders are it will take at least $1000 in r&d work just to build a cam.

  11. #41
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    My reverse cam for the 250x/ 300ex 4 valve head cam for the Big Red conversion took 8 months and $1200 to get it right. That's why I'm getting a Big Red next week.


    I think these should be ready by trike fest and just drag race them, never seen a dyno win a race! lol

  12. #42
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    LOL true! but ya know, Modern mags are all about the dyno crap.
    ________________
    I'm just a squirrel "Trying" to get a nut!

    Nearly every kind of Honda ATC (plus some custom ones
    several Yami Quads (mostly custom built for MX racing)

    https://www.mikesatvfix.com

    "Freedom is not free...but the U.S. Marine Corps will pay most of your share."

  13. #43
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    Wow ive got a 200e (1982 big red) can most of that apply on my head? I know they're a bit different and cam and such but how much?
    1982 big red
    1974 atc 90
    Life is hard, but its harder if you're stupid - John Wayne

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by thcowboy View Post
    Wow ive got a 200e (1982 big red) can most of that apply on my head? I know they're a bit different and cam and such but how much?

    Yes all those motors have about the same head, just a different casting number, some are a little better then other but all doable.

  15. #45
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    So they are the same? Just a different cam then?
    1982 big red
    1974 atc 90
    Life is hard, but its harder if you're stupid - John Wayne

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