Tecate CDI Recreation - For Sale

[RubberSalt]

I need to head to the local hardware store and see what grommets will fit or if I need to make some adjustments.

[christph]

Regarding the CDI color, I like black. I'm not looking to draw attention to the electrical system.

[RubberSalt]

It's already on its way. I prefer black for the same reason.

[Maico]

I need to head to the local hardware store and see what grommets will fit or if I need to make some adjustments.

If you can make these so the original grommets and bushings can be retained......

I have the original OEM grommets and bushings from the OEM CDI box I sent you if you need them to make adjustments.

[RubberSalt]

I've got the originals. My only concern is how thin they are. I doubt he plastic would hold up being that thin.

The other option is to simply do away with the grommet and bolt to the frame directly.

Looking at other CDIs out there, and that's how the are done. With only 1 bolt hole! They are smaller though.

[RubberSalt]

I believe I've got a solution to the grommet/bushing problem. I'll just build the box to have the bolt go right though it.

Some of the mounts i made for the printer were strong enough that i could not strip m5 screws with a screw driver. I should be able to do something similar to the mounts. Ill draw up an idea and share it. It should also give the CDI a simpler look, more square (which I'd personally prefer), and much much stronger. If at most, just bushing would be used.

[plevib]

I like the green! It turned out much nicer than the others. Did the others run out of plastic before finishing? Black would look nice too I'm sure

[RubberSalt]

The fitting that holds the bowden tube (tube that guides the filament) popped off about 6 inches before the red finished. So essentially, yup lol. The blue was the first one i did. It's a translucent blue, so it really shows off any mistake. The green was the last and It really did come out nice.

The strength of these is way higher than the first ones i did. I wouldn't hesitate to run these. The tabs/spots for grommets have next to no flex.

The black should be here in the next day or so. I'm going to redesign and reprint.

[RubberSalt]

One of the problems I was having with the original size was fitting the CDI in it. The higher voltage components (mostly the caps), are way way bigger that the original stuff. This set up will use a couple of longer bolts and simply go through. If need be, I can enlarge the holes and we can use spacers in them.

[RubberSalt]

I've been working on a side project while waiting for supplies.

I tore down a blaster CDI......... No wonder why these things are lacking!! Not much in the way of an ignition timing curve. It was about 12 times easier to rip apart and draw up a schematic that the tecate CDI. lol

so, on that note, I'm going to see if at possible to mod the tecate CDI to work on the blaster. The current trick on the blaster is to advance the timing 4 degrees and run a "hot shot" cdi. Rick's hot shot CDI <- was never claimed to be made. On a side note. The basics of the Blaster CDI is similar to the tecate.

[RubberSalt]

Black filament came in :-D

Forgot to pay the Internet bill.. D-: Anyone want to buy a cdi for $70? Lol

I was thinking about pricing again. I'm thinking about putting these in the 3ww shop for $150 and on ebay for $200.

[Billy Golightly]

You've really done an amazing job reverse engineering and then coming up with your own design on these things man, I have to give you a two big thumbs up for the work and accomplishments involved in it.

[RubberSalt]

Thanks Billy, I just test fitted the latest box i made. It's similar to the one above, but smaller. With less mass, it's be less susceptible to cranking under vibration and stress.

I've got about 15 CDI's made now with the exception of the plugs. I see to get these over to John to have molds made.

I've also got some encapsulation epoxy. It should be similar to what Kawasaki used. Prevent vibration and moisture from getting in as well as add strength rigidity. A plastic box alone won't due the trick!

I'll get some pictures of the housings and the CDI's this evening.

[C.J]

WOW!!! All I can say is WOW!!!!

Have you ever wanted to make an adjustable CDI for an LT250R? Lol!!

Seriously though,, great job on everything! You're undertaking something that not many people ever would THINK to.

(side note:::::: kinda serious about if you wanted to try a hand at building an adjustable LT250R stator )

[RubberSalt]

I couldn't find my snips last night. Had a few CDI's with extra long spidery looking leads still on them. I didn't want to take a picture and run everyone off lol

As for the LT250r, I'd love to, but it gets tricky when you don't have the CDI or the machine to test with lol. If I had a CDI, I could probably figure out the rest.

The main thing with an AC-CDI is they can't advance the timing. All they can do is retard it. This is perfectly fine for 2 strokes though. When kicking, you'll want it retarded, that way it doesn't kick back and you don't end up over the handle bars. Around 2-3k rpm, is typically the max advance(from what I've researched), from there the timing begins to retard. The 2-3k RPM range is typically where you want your max advance set. This is done by adjusting the stator or flywheel. After that, it begins retarding the timing.

The Tecate has a nice little circuit to help with kick back. Im able to change it, making the machine easier to kick at the risk of it kicking back. I can go the opposite direction with the setting, making you have to kick it hard, but allowing you to advance the base timing more. On the adjustable set up, I'm thinking about adding a switch to allow you to change the settings for kicking. May make those race machines easier to get rolling lol. This circuit did not exist for the blaster (no surprise lol).

My brothers 89 trx 250r has left nasty nasty bruises all up, down, and around his leg due to kick back lol .