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Thread: Brake Pad school....I need some advice

  1. #16
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    wow, Thanks!

    Thats insane.
    Email- onformula1@hotmail.com Rebuilt, Revalved, custom springs, lowering, forks & shocks, Custom Suspension, all brands, 2-3-4 wheeler's- PM or Email with questions.

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  2. #17
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    The Open Road
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    HA!

    hells yeah Oscar.....thanks for that link!!!

  3. #18
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    Feb 2011
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    Surprise, AZ
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    Here's a good article I stole from MXA, I agree with most of it. I would have type up something, but I have scary low typing skills these days, I cheat too much on a computer.

    MANY PADS ARE ORGANIC


    If the brake pad’s friction surface was made from a straight carbon-based, organic material, stopping performance would be poor and the brake system would quickly overheat. Actually, the pads wouldn’t do much more than polish the disc to an even, chrome-like luster (making straight-organic pads increasingly popular among the custom Harley elite). In order to find a suitable level of clasping force it was necessary to mix metal fragments into the organic base. This genre of brake pad is earmarked semi-metallic and has formed a strong following due to its consistent performance in dry and wet conditions.
    Standard semi-metallic pads wear rapidly and when cheaply made, the slower wearing metallic material results in raised, hard blemishes on the pad surface that will severely groove the disc. It’s necessary for semi-metallic pads to be backed with an asbestos-like shield to protect against the transfer of heat to the caliper. Most European bikes come standard with semi-metallic pads.



    ORGANIC PLUS TWO


    It has become popular for the producers of performance brake components to blend additional carbon and Kevlar ingredients in with the standard issue metallic bits and organic base material. When the mix is correct the result is a pad that stays consistently bonded, has controllable friction and offers superior heat dissipation. Some mixes disperse heat so well that they can only be used for unusually dry MX conditions (or for road racing). Kevlar/carbon pad, for example, rarely attains a suitable operating temperature in the wet going.



    METAL MEETS METAL


    Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Yamaha use sintered metal pads. Sintered describes the process of fusing metal particles into one mass by the application of pressure and heat. It’s a methodology that Dunlop, parent company to DP, introduced to the aircraft industry during WWII. Sintered metal pads offer unparalleled wet condition performance.
    ˙Obviously, rubbing metal particles against a metal disc sounds like the perfect equation for high wear. Frankly, it used to be too, until producers of sintered metal pads began increasing the percentage of soft, copper-like compounds to ease the impact on the disc. DP also adds a little bit of graphite to lend a lubricative quality that reduces wear and pad squeal.
    Sintered pads generally create more heat and operate in a hotter environment than semi-metallic blends.



    PAD MAINTENANCE


    Most of today’s ‘crossers use some kind of a metal tab that scrapes on the disc when the service limit of the pad has been met. This will generally be when only 2mm of material is left on the pad. Remember, this is an absolute service limit. Over a period of time pads will lose their performance from the endless heating and cooling cycles. The less remaining pad, the more the material will be compromised by heat. The factory teams won’t run pads longer than four races.
    ˙Before replacing pads, check if the rotor runs true. Warped, bent or heavily grooved rotors cause drag and will prematurely wear the pads as well as overheating the brake’s complete hydraulic system. Replace rotors that exceed the allowable runout listed in the service manual (usually anything in excess of 0.05mm). Don’t fret if the disc is discolored blue from excessive heat. As long as the disc runs true, performance will not suffer. Do, however, lightly scuff the binding surface of the rotor with emery cloth.
    It’s a good idea to have a spare set of front and rear brake pads available at the races. Muddy and sandy conditions spell murder on pads, and some pro riders are lucky to get 30 minutes out of a set. Its best to start muddy motos with new pads.



    MAKE YOUR BRAKES BETTER


    Aftermarket brake pads can improve the braking on your bike, but only if you have conscientiously changed your brake fluid, bled the lines at regular intervals, checked the rotors and kept the system in good working order.
    Email- onformula1@hotmail.com Rebuilt, Revalved, custom springs, lowering, forks & shocks, Custom Suspension, all brands, 2-3-4 wheeler's- PM or Email with questions.

    ***Check out my album for cool pictures*** http://www.3wheelerworld.com/album.php?albumid=2527

    As always- Everything I post is IMHO.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Surprise, AZ
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    Clean your rotors with carb clean with a green 3M Scotch brite pad.

    Lift the trike wheels off the ground, spray the pad with carb cleaner, fold it over the rotor on both sides and pinch it with your hands you will be cleaning both sides at one time, spin the wheel around and you have a mini brake cleaning lathe. (Offering a buddy a beer to help) it makes it easier.

    Your rotor will come out looking factory fresh and it will stop better.
    Email- onformula1@hotmail.com Rebuilt, Revalved, custom springs, lowering, forks & shocks, Custom Suspension, all brands, 2-3-4 wheeler's- PM or Email with questions.

    ***Check out my album for cool pictures*** http://www.3wheelerworld.com/album.php?albumid=2527

    As always- Everything I post is IMHO.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
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    Northeast
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    I find pads on EBAY OEM for 15-20$ and free shipping all the time.

    Other than that, I only run sintered bronze pads but OEM seems to last the best.

    EDIT - PLEASE don't buy those cheap pads. They do not last at all; I know someone who bought 30 pairs and they last a month......
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Texas
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    ^ good point, but I have ran them and they lasted me a while. but I don't ride my brakes hardly ever so that may be why. for racing, those will work awesome for me as I can change the set each night if needed.
    ________________
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  7. #22
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirtcrasher View Post
    .....Other than that, I only run sintered bronze pads but OEM seems to last the best.

    EDIT - PLEASE don't buy those cheap pads. They do not last at all; I know someone who bought 30 pairs and they last a month......
    Too late. I got 12 sets. I wasted four sets of 20$ pads on me and the boy's trikes. We did this in just three days but we rode like we stole them. I figure this way, I got the original sintered set and twelve more sets for the whole week this year at TF. Im still spending ten dollars less and get more pads than me and Tristan can trash that week.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Surprise, AZ
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    Keep your old pads too and take them to a brake shop that replaces the lining material, sometimes its cheaper and you can pick different compounds thats what I did before I had a sponsor.

    Vintage builders do this when pads and shoes are discontinued.

    Sent from my SM-G386T1 using Tapatalk
    Email- onformula1@hotmail.com Rebuilt, Revalved, custom springs, lowering, forks & shocks, Custom Suspension, all brands, 2-3-4 wheeler's- PM or Email with questions.

    ***Check out my album for cool pictures*** http://www.3wheelerworld.com/album.php?albumid=2527

    As always- Everything I post is IMHO.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Texas
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    ^ great Idea, I did not think of that. not many places around my area now.
    ________________
    I'm just a squirrel "Trying" to get a nut!

    Nearly every kind of Honda ATC (plus some custom ones
    several Yami Quads (mostly custom built for MX racing)

    https://www.mikesatvfix.com

    "Freedom is not free...but the U.S. Marine Corps will pay most of your share."

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