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AIR FILTER OIL
I would put oil on your air filter AFTER you are 100% done testing because it could make it run slightly richer.
You "can" use engine oil, however, it can get sucked off of the filter into the engine easier than regular foam filter oil.
K&N filter oil is designed for their filters which are cotton . . It may work fine, however, I would use a foam filter oil . . All motorcycle shops and probably Walmart will carry it . . You "might" find some at an auto
parts store.
OIL APPLICATION [For the air filter you pervs.]
"Borrow" some latex gloves from your work if you haven't yet.
I pour a few strips of oil from the front to back of the filter around 1 1/2" apart then pour a few strips in the other direction around 1 1/2" apart.
Squeeze the bejesus out of it.
Place the large end down on a pan and let it sit for at least 10 minutes.
Squeeze the oil out of it that has migrated to the end.
Your done.
JETTING AND CARB AND ENGINE MISS
I am on my computer instead of my phone now so its easier to type.
What it looks like is that your 30 year old air filter was so restrictive that it basically caused the carb to be rich by a around a whopping SEVEN main jet sizes I say seven because if you had left the filter from hell on there, the 118 jet likely would have still been maybe one size to large, however, we circumvented doing that test by installing the happy, new, color matching, Uni Filter.
Because your old filter was so plugged up, the jetting went WAY lean when you installed the new one as clearly evidenced by your almost snow white plug which is likely why it still had a miss . . An extremely rich engine will "seem" to run similar to an extremely lean one so even though it still ran like crap with the uni filter, it was most likely because it was then too lean . . This is another reason I mentioned that only one thing at a time should be changed . . Obviously the filter needed to be changed so doing that was the correct thing to do, however, you gave up on the old carb also at that point which is why I mentioned that it should not be condemned just yet.
I am the type of person that likes to know exactly what the cause of a problem is/was, and I would not be happy having a carburetor sitting around that I didn't know was any good or not . . If I know it's good I will put a tag on it or use it on something else or sell it or keep it for
parts etc but at least I would know exactly what its status is and exactly what the root cause of the problem I was working on was.
AIR FILTER LID TEST
Here's the deal on the lid which I partially mentioned earlier.
It is possible that your engine may run better in the upper end of the rpm rage without it even though it runs fine now . . If you want to try and get a little more power in that range, I would do at least the following.
Riding tests need to be performed EXACTLY the same way every time to generate consistent and useful results.
1. Ride along at around 1/3rd throttle in second gear then quickly/instantly slam it all the way open . . Do this a few times to get a feel for it.
2. inspect the plug for color.
3. clean plug.
4. remove the lid an d repeat steps 1 and 2.
5. post results.
If the plug looks lighter with the lid off, you will definitely get more power without it after it is properly rejetted.
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Originally Posted by barnett468
