Thank you for the advice everyone. Ill be doing some measurements tonight. If there is an issue here, it's that nub. I now have the return spring correctly placed.
Thank you for the advice everyone. Ill be doing some measurements tonight. If there is an issue here, it's that nub. I now have the return spring correctly placed.
Ok i finally had some time to take pics.
So in first pic it looks like that nub was sheared off from something failing in the motor. It's definitely not flat either. In the last 2 pics i put a piece of tape on the shaft when it was pushed all the way into the motor, then pulled the shaft out to see the amount of travel. The amount of play was the width of the stopper on my tape measure, which looks like 1/16th of an inch.
.
ok, the furst case photo looks like half the nub has an angle on it from wear or something . . the second photo it does not so the first photo shows the problem better . . the amount of play you gave is the max i would want to see but "should" not be enough to cause the fork to come off the pins.
i would simply put the shaft in all the way then pull it out the distance of the free play which looks like around 3/32" to me and see if the forks come off the pins . . then you will know exactly what is happening.
you can also put a 90 degree angle on the fork and shaft to see if it is bent poutward at all which is unlikely but its a 30 year old bike.
take a photo of it assembled etc.
That nub is normal (normal wear) and no its not sheared off. Something else is likely installed incorrectly if you are still having issues. So what is the problem? It still has a ton of play in the mechanism when you assemble?
Yea i dont know if there is a problem now. The whole reason i started this thread is because i was having a hard time shifting through the gears when the shaft was pushed all the way in. What i was doing for my test was manually turning the drive shaft as i was shifting to try to get all the way through the gears and back. It seemed like it wasnt catching the shift drum star when the shaft was pushed in. But now im wondering if the shifting difficulty was just because the motor isnt running and it's a pain to shift it through all the gears when it isnt. Im certain the shaft and shift plate is now assembled properly. Originally the return spring was wrong, but with your guys' help, it is correct now.
I think im going to move forward with the top end and if the shifting issue is present while running, i can try replacing the clutch cover, shaft, etc at that time.
So I finally was able to test drive the 200x today and sure enough I'm having issues. It doesn't want to shift into first unless I pull the shaft out to the left. At which point it will shift down into first and up through to 5 like normal and back down through to 2 and again will not want to go to 1 without pulling the shaft all the way out.
In neutral, when I lift up it will shift into second. I can then ride and shift up through the gears to 5 and back down to second, where I experience what I explained above.
If the shaft is pulled out to the left it shifts through all gears as it should.
At this point I'm thinking I buy a used clutch cover and try that. Or maybe the plate is bent like someone mentioned earlier in this thread. Or the screw idea would work too. I'm just worried I have the star gear mispositioned or something but I followed the manual and triple checked when I assembled.
.
you star gear is not in the wring position . . obviously if you prevent the shifter from moving to the left, it will work fine so as i mentioned earlier that is one option using the screw etc but something still isnt correct but i cant be anything major.
Make sure you have the thrust washer on the case side. Number 14 in the schematic below.
https://www.servicehonda.com/parts/l...65DAE14965D14A
I have the thrust washer. My workaround until I get a case/try the screw thing is I put a hose clamp on the shift shaft to keep it from moving into the case. I know this is not a long term solution. But it will get me by for now.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I had a similar problem on a 200X I built a while ago. The "window" in the flat plate on the shift lever had worn, preventing it from fully rotating the shift star unless you pulled outward or gave it a really quick stab on the lever when already moving. I would bet that if you look, you'll see the window is bell-mouthed. Replace the shift shaft and I think you'll be all set.
1985 Tri-Z 250
1985 ATC250R
I had the exact same issue when assembling my '85 200X about 10 years ago. I was thorough when assembling, but never did determine why shifting into first was difficult unless the shaft was pulled away from the case. My solution was an external spring that forced the shaft out, basically install a spring over the shaft, then install the shift lever. I can take a picture if needed. It may not be correct, but everything still works fine to this day.So I finally was able to test drive the 200x today and sure enough I'm having issues. It doesn't want to shift into first unless I pull the shaft out to the left. At which point it will shift down into first and up through to 5 like normal and back down through to 2 and again will not want to go to 1 without pulling the shaft all the way out.
In neutral, when I lift up it will shift into second. I can then ride and shift up through the gears to 5 and back down to second, where I experience what I explained above.
If the shaft is pulled out to the left it shifts through all gears as it should.
1984 ATC200S
1984 ATC200X
1984 ATC200M
1985 ATC200X
1985 ATC350X
1985 ATC250R
1986 ATC200X
1987 ATC250SX
TPC450