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Thread: Field Find 86 350X

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    USA
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    Yea looks just like the back part of the frame, right around the spot the seat goes in and back on the left side is pushed down a bit. Shouldn't really effect anything but visuals, could bend the grab bar the opposite way to make it visually look better even though it is still bent. Personally I wouldn't care, but I like riding more than looks, and it looks damn good to me lol.

    It probably wouldn't be too hard to rose bud the area where the bend appears to start and bend it back up. Would probably require repainting the frame though. Could cold bend it, but it probably wouldn't turn out as good.

    General rule of thumb for me on machines like that is to check/replace fluids, check spark plug, and get the engine running and see what you have exactly. If it runs good to great, spend the money to fix it, if it runs poorly, then you have to add rebuilding/replacing the engine on top of any other repair. If part machines are common in your area, it might be best to make it a rider till you can get a replacement frame. However it is your machine, so do as you will .

    If you do part it though, I want the exhaust =).

  2. #17
    Join Date
    May 2015
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    San Diego, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by ps2fixer View Post
    General rule of thumb for me on machines like that is to check/replace fluids, check spark plug, and get the engine running and see what you have exactly.
    I'm with you on that.

    I checked for spark...good. It had oil and looked like it was just changed ...........but it hasn't been for 6 years. Didn't do anything else but wanted to hear if it would give me any hint of life. Pulled plug off and put some oil in cylinder and kicked it slowly a few times to kinda get it spread around. Sprayed WD40. Then put the plug back on and on the second kick.......bang..bang..bang.. about 8 of them. All this with an almost for sure plugged carb, no gas tank, etc.

    It just testified as to the fact that these engines are very forgiving. Just wanted a little bit of hope that this will be a runner before I go to do any more to it

  3. #18
    Join Date
    May 2015
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    San Diego, CA
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    Just a little more work. Air filter looks surprisingly good for being left in the field since around 2009.

    One darn bolt snapped when I was unscrewing it off. The other I needed to grind off as the head was so bad I honestly don't know how it was screwed on. I've since removed the remaining of the grounded one but this other will be challenging. Any tricks for removal?

    Pretty clean in the intake.

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  4. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    You could try an "easy out", basically a reversed drill bit, and a bit that "grabs" the drilled hole to pull the bolt out. Heat helps too. If the stud of the bolt is sticking up enough, you could try to weld another junk bolt onto it and see if it will come.

    Oh just saw it was the carb bolts. I haven't had that problem before on a carb. I suspect heat could still help but I don't know if there is anything in the carb that could melt besides the float, and make sure to take the top off with the rubber seal up there. I suspect a machine shop could remove it for a fee.

    Looks like your idle adjuster cable is shot too, honda does not list the part being made any more, so a 2nd carb might be a real good idea if it can get all the parts you need to make one complete good carb from the two. Another option is to "upgrade" it to a 400ex carb, but I don't have personal experience with that.

    Here is about the cheapest one I could find that wasn't complete trash. Description says it is in good running order, just the outside is dirty $65 and way too much for shipping (see if they can get a real price quote maybe?) A med flat rate box is like $12 tops if it came down to it - http://www.ebay.com/itm/86-87-ATC-35...dWidrk&vxp=mtr

    Looks like the 400ex carbs run close to $100.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    May 2015
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    San Diego, CA
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    Thanks ps2.

    I've should of been more clear. It was one of the bolts for the float bowl. I like your idea of a parts carb though and might do that if things don't work out. I was thinking of just getting the float bowl gasket and make everything else work but there are some kits on ebay that give you the items one needs for $16 shipped to your door.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    NEPA
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    7,048
    Little vise grips on carb bowl screws.BUT,,,be careful not to turn into the bowl,they crack easy
    Last edited by atc007; 02-02-2016 at 10:34 PM.
    Please help those who cannot help themselves.

    ALWAYS buying Museum quality machines,3 and 4 wheels. And any and ALL ,NOS parts,EVERY brand.

    I am turning my PM's Off,my Email is billsracing@hotmail.com,put 3WW in the subject. Thanx!

    Gun laws do not stop criminals. BULLETS do.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    South Louisiana
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    Quote Originally Posted by atc007 View Post
    Little vise grips on carb bowl screws.
    That's my trick too. Most time I don't even start with a screwdriver.
    "Roll on 3"

    RIP Ol' Deuce

    "Long Live the ATC"
    Building: ATCr125x
    Riding: ATC200sx
    "I am not a mechanic, mechanics get paid for this. I do it because I enjoy it."

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    Good tip on the philips vs JIS standard, I couldn't remember what the other one was. The major and easy way to tell the difference is the 45 degree tip vs 60 degree tip. Several bit type kits come with both styles.

    As always.. got to have the right tool for the right job . I suspect the OP had the correct screw driver, since he snapped the head off the screw/bolt head.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    San Diego, CA
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    Yea you guys are right about the JIS.......I have a KTC set and an oldHarbor Freight set but I don't think they sell them anymore. Impact bits for case covers and splitting cases is a must.

    This is the first time I broke a float bowl screw in my life. I never knew about the mini vise grips method. My routine has always been applying WD40 the night before. I've had the ugliest and nastiest bolts come off ultra easy........not this time.

    I'm just going to try to drill a little out and work a small square file to remove the tiny screw. If worst comes to worst ill just drill it out or go with ps2's recommendation of another carb.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    San Diego
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    47
    Try a easy out first! Don't ruin the carb with a file.
    86 ATC 250r
    08 CRF 450x(r)

  11. #26
    Join Date
    May 2015
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    San Diego, CA
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    Thanks guys for the help. I think what I am going to attempt is to try to make a line across the top of the screw and maybe try a standard screwdriver. The photo makes it look bigger than it is but I don't even think it's an 1/8 of an inch. Maybe sitting in the WD40 an additional night might help.

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  12. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Texas
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    997
    Any before pics? The ones in the first post aren't showing up. Have you looked over the carb rebuild thread by FlyinW? Wealth of info there. Good luck and good to see this 350X cared for.
    84 Honda 200ES Big Red


  13. #28
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    May 2015
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    San Diego, CA
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    Here's a couple of pics.

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  14. #29
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    Dec 2015
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    San Diego
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    Quote Originally Posted by knappyfeet View Post
    Thanks guys for the help. I think what I am going to attempt is to try to make a line across the top of the screw and maybe try a standard screwdriver. The photo makes it look bigger than it is but I don't even think it's an 1/8 of an inch. Maybe sitting in the WD40 an additional night might help.

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    Try liquid wrench on the bolts.
    86 ATC 250r
    08 CRF 450x(r)

  15. #30
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    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Bullet I View Post
    Try liquid wrench on the bolts.
    Agree with this, or PB Blaster. WD40 is to displace water as it's primary design which is what the WD stands for, great for locks and other things that need lub, but no water. Penetrating oil will work better as it will work its way into the threads etc. You can make home made penetrating oil too from a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. Another option would be diesel or kerosene.

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