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Thread: Flat track

  1. #61
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    My underwater lair
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    4,152
    Yes, on the case repair. That looks mild to me.

    I don't think I would recommend trying to do it without taking the cases all the way apart, however

    Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    USA
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    670
    It looks like the cylinder and piston are free of any scrapes or gauldges, i can feel none anyway.
    No compression test was ever done. The rod is free but putting oil in the holes I believe lead to the main bearings. I can't believe the bottom locked like this in three months.

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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20190630_111015.jpg   20190630_104956.jpg   20190630_105052.jpg  
    Last edited by fieldy; 06-30-2019 at 01:37 PM.
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  3. #63
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    USA
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    670
    The piston underside looks like it was never overheated and the Nikasil plating looks good at the exhaust ports. I can feel a slight ridge where the rings hit the high point in the cylinder. So the measurments and specs will tell the story.
    I also will check the head and cylinder for possible warping. Inspection of power valves and cleaning also.
    I am going to get a tusk splitter and puller set with a c clip crank puller adapter. Not sure if i need the puller yet, need to study the manual. New to rebuilding. This bottom end will or should be a winter project for me. I hope to do some riding also, soon.

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    I was thinking about dumping some mineral spirits or transmission fluid into the bottom end because I would like for it to be rotating when I separate the cases. The mineral spirts may just run out the main seals though.
    I think the water came through the seals so I want to check the clutch oil too, I will update on that next time around.
    Last edited by fieldy; 07-02-2019 at 01:23 AM.
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  4. #64
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    USA
    --
    670
    Dumped some kerosene and transmission fluid in the crankcase. Hopefully it will free up.
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    Drained the 10w from the case and I see some green juice. Slightly surprised.

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    Does anybody recognize the piston in the above picture? I was wondering if it was stock.
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  5. #65
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV.
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    2,191
    Quote Originally Posted by fieldy View Post
    Drained the 10w from the case and I see some green juice. Slightly surprised.
    Bummer. Even if it does free up, I wouldn't run it. Not sure if that's what you're intending to do.

    Quote Originally Posted by fieldy View Post
    Does anybody recognize the piston in the above picture? I was wondering if it was stock.
    Based on the markings, it appears to be a Wiseco to me, which isn't stock.
    Red Rider's Sand Machine Updated 07/23/14

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    USA
    --
    670
    Quote Originally Posted by Red Rider View Post
    Bummer. Even if it does free up, I wouldn't run it. Not sure if that's what you're intending to do.

    Based on the markings, it appears to be a Wiseco to me, which isn't stock.
    Yes, I won't run one with an air leak. Thanks on the Weisco. I am attempting to get started on a good runner I can race. I have one that runs and hope it leaks down ok. Cross my fingers.

    Going to strip one to the frame and start. Origional paint, kinda rusty in places. I have blasted and powder coated bike frames but I was thinking spray this one. Not wanting show pieces at this time. Any do's or don'ts? Really dont wanna mess up from the get go. I know not to blast hardware before zinc plating, any other tips?

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  7. #67
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    minnesota
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    5,914
    Exactly what bike/engine is this?

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    USA
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    670
    Quote Originally Posted by barnett468 View Post
    Exactly what bike/engine is this?
    It's THE MOST POWERFUL THREE WHEELER IN THE UNIVERSE!
    circa 1986.
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  9. #69
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    USA
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    670
    Just run of the mill Tecates'. Engines may or may not be origional. Pretty rough all around. Solid frames. Forks straight and clean.
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  10. #70
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    minnesota
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    Quote Originally Posted by fieldy View Post
    It's THE MOST POWERFUL THREE WHEELER IN THE UNIVERSE!
    circa 1986.
    You have the elusive 86 TECATE?

  11. #71
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV.
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    2,191
    Quote Originally Posted by fieldy View Post
    Yes, I won't run one with an air leak. Thanks on the Weisco.
    Good going. Sorry, I didn't realize this one had an air leak as well, bummer bummer, or double bummer if you will.

    Quote Originally Posted by fieldy View Post
    Going to strip one to the frame and start. Origional paint, kinda rusty in places. I have blasted and powder coated bike frames but I was thinking spray this one. Not wanting show pieces at this time. Any do's or don'ts? Really dont wanna mess up from the get go. I know not to blast hardware before zinc plating, any other tips?
    I'm a firm believer in powder coating. The first time I repainted my R, I used a quality automotive paint & spray-gun. The bike was ridden mostly on hard-pack, with the occasional trip to the sand dunes. The paint lasted about as long as the OEM paint did (4 years), before it was chipping off in all the same places that the OEM paint did (on lower frame rails, especially around the foot-pegs). This was mostly due to rocks & sand kicked up by my own front tire, but my main riding partner did have an '87 Tecate.

    The second time it was painted, I had it powdercoated. Since it has been powdercoated, I mostly ride sand dunes, and occasionally some hard pack, and there are no chips whatsoever, although the powdercoat is not as glossy in the same lower frame rail areas. Regardless of which paint method you choose, the only other tip I have, is to go over your frame with a fine tooth comb, and clean up any weld splatter/sharp edges with a file, and have any cracks re-welded before it is painted. I have no input or experience with re-zinc plating hardware.
    Last edited by Red Rider; 07-05-2019 at 11:34 PM.
    Red Rider's Sand Machine Updated 07/23/14

  12. #72
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    USA
    --
    670
    Barnett-Yes, they are Tecates. I guess what I am asking is there a certain media that should be used for sandblasting or will any media or sandblaster screw said Tecate frame? Didn't know if there are better paths to go. Last bike frame I did, I just said blast it, then powdercoat it. I went picked it up all seem great. These Tecate frames are worth more than the bikes though. Just wondered about it.
    TECATE WINS AGAIN!

  13. #73
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    USA
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    670
    Quote Originally Posted by Red Rider View Post
    Good going. Sorry, I didn't realize this one had an air leak as well, bummer bummer, or double bummer if you will.

    I'm a firm believer in powder coating. The first time I repainted my R, I used a quality automotive paint & spray-gun. The bike was ridden mostly on hard-pack, with the occasional trip to the sand dunes. The paint lasted about as long as the OEM paint did (4 years), before it was chipping off in all the same places that the OEM paint did (on lower frame rails, especially around the foot-pegs). This was mostly due to rocks & sand kicked up by my own front tire, but my main riding partner did have an '87 Tecate.

    The second time it was painted, I had it powdercoated. Since it has been powdercoated, I mostly ride sand dunes, and occasionally some hard pack, and there are no chips whatsoever, although the powdercoat is not as glossy in the same lower frame rail areas. Regardless of which paint method you choose, the only other tip I have, is to go over your frame with a fine tooth comb, and clean up any weld splatter/sharp edges with a file, and have any cracks re-welded before it is painted. I have no input or experience with re-zinc plating hardware.
    I should of said that I won't run one with a suspected air leak. I never got it leakdown tested. Water has apparently ruined the bearings and the seals must be bad so I will replace those. I am jumping around alot on thoughts and trikes. I need to name them.

    I might try to paint this Tecate because I could later tear it down and Respray the frame. Might look more origional with paint too.

    Next chance, leakdown a motor and hope I got a rider, hopefully do.

    I am gonna read my new Clymer service manual (when I find it) and study the Kawasaki manual before I start asking questions about the motor. I got questions.

    Oh yes, I am not surprised that your friends 87 TECATE sandblasted the paint off your 250r, ☺ and thanks for the opinion and tips on the prep work!
    Last edited by fieldy; 07-06-2019 at 12:34 AM.
    TECATE WINS AGAIN!

  14. #74
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV.
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    2,191
    Quote Originally Posted by fieldy View Post
    I guess what I am asking is there a certain media that should be used for sandblasting or will any media or sandblaster screw said Tecate frame? Didn't know if there are better paths to go. Last bike frame I did, I just said blast it, then powdercoat it. I went picked it up all seem great.
    I've done sandblasting, but I didn't do the sandblasting prior to having my R frame powdercoated. That was all included in the powdercoating price, so I didn't bother.

    Quote Originally Posted by fieldy View Post
    I should of said that I won't run one with a suspected air leak. I never got it leakdown tested. Water has apparently ruined the bearings and the seals must be bad so I will replace those.
    Gotcha.

    Quote Originally Posted by fieldy View Post
    I am gonna read my new Clymer service manual (when I find it) and study the Kawasaki manual before I start asking questions about the motor. I got questions.
    I'M NOT SURE HOW HIGHLIGHTED THIS IS IN THE CLYMER MANUAL, BUT A BIG GOTCHA IS: THE NUT, THAT RETAINS THE POWER-VALVE ADVANCER LEVER, IS LEFT-HAND THREADS (REVERSE THREADS). Turn it the wrong way, and you'll destroy the nut and/or the power-valve governor shaft, and undamaged shafts are hard to find.

    Quote Originally Posted by fieldy View Post
    Oh yes, I am not surprised that your friends 87 TECATE sandblasted the paint off your 250r, ☺ and thanks for the information.
    Glad to help, and don't worry about my paint. I got the Tecate back but good, via a blown out headlight lens, courtesy of the extreme roost & rock throwing ability of the 250R.
    Last edited by Red Rider; 07-06-2019 at 01:01 AM.
    Red Rider's Sand Machine Updated 07/23/14

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