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Thread: Rebuilding 200x After 6yrs

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
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    Oregon
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    I pulled my bottom end apart because the rod and bearings were sticking. I freed it up with silicone spray, lots of rusty crap in the bearings came out. I didn't want to chance it.

  2. #17
    rodeofan5656's Avatar
    rodeofan5656 is offline Girlfriend wishes I'd last longer than 8 seconds Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    Park City, KS
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    Ive got a full engine gasket and seal set coming next week when my cylinder is done. So i might pull it to look further and put the new center crankcase gasket in. It hasnt leaked. But knowin my luck, it will when i get it going again. So for now, i wont go about ordering anymore parts til i can open it further.

    Ive had a barnett clutch for it since a month after i got it (early 2011). So theres some money i wont have to spend. Ordered Shindy valves, Kibblewhite guides, and a DID 25hx100 cam chain last night. Need to find a tensioner guide, mines wore more than i thought.

    I pulled the clutch springs already, now am having a hard time removing the nut. Any tips on holdin the clutch still without a factory tool?



    1986 Honda ATC200X
    2005 Yamaha Road Star 1700
    ToyHauler- 1998 Ram 3500 5.9L Turbo Diesel

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    East of Worcester ma
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    I've used a REAL copper penny one from 1982 or before( put between the gears behind,near clutch. You could also use a rubber
    Strap car oil filter wrench. I think i have a few used tensioners i'll look tonight to see if there any good if u want.
    Use a impact gun it'll spin right off(just make sure its in the right direction)
    I think its a staked nut u have to use a steel point and bend out the little crease first if it is (i cant remember)

    Shep
    Last edited by Shep1970; 12-23-2016 at 11:36 AM. Reason: Sp

  4. #19
    rodeofan5656's Avatar
    rodeofan5656 is offline Girlfriend wishes I'd last longer than 8 seconds Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    Park City, KS
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    I tried holdin the clutch basket, but its the pressure plates that spin. The nut does appear to have been punched somehow



    1986 Honda ATC200X
    2005 Yamaha Road Star 1700
    ToyHauler- 1998 Ram 3500 5.9L Turbo Diesel

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    East of Worcester ma
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    1,328
    Use the penny trick in previous post, should do it.
    Heres a pic of the notch at the end of shaft u need to get the dented part mostly out of it.
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	237970 a impact gun is pefect here.(to loosen)
    Standard thread(spins off like a bottle cap)
    The crank threads are opposite(remember that)

    Shep

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Northeast
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodeofan5656 View Post
    Thanks for the OK. I was startin to get worried. Got one of our Recon guys at work to do a polish job on the lower fork tubes. Itll cost quite a bit more than paint, but itll sure look better. So it may not be runnin quite yet, but itll look purdy!

    Id love to post all the pictures ive been taking. But uploading them as an attachment 1 at a time, gets old quick. Anyone know an easier way to add multiple pictures to a post?
    Valve guides are no easy cheesey job. And once you install them, you have to ream them...
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  7. #22
    rodeofan5656's Avatar
    rodeofan5656 is offline Girlfriend wishes I'd last longer than 8 seconds Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    Park City, KS
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    389
    So they are left-handed threads? Righty loosy? Lol

    And the valve guides- Manual says to heat head to 300* to drive out. Im guessin the same thing to install? Outta curiosity, what makes it so hard? We do this with pressed on gears in large diesel engines. Id kinda like to know what to expect before i destroy a $150 head



    1986 Honda ATC200X
    2005 Yamaha Road Star 1700
    ToyHauler- 1998 Ram 3500 5.9L Turbo Diesel

  8. #23
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    Oct 2002
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    Northeast
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    It's not hard, It's easy with the right tools!!

    Does require some skill...
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  9. #24
    rodeofan5656's Avatar
    rodeofan5656 is offline Girlfriend wishes I'd last longer than 8 seconds Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
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    Park City, KS
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    So heating the head and driving them out with a normal punch is not advisable? Should I just get the parts and have a shop do it? That way if it gets jacked, its on them?



    1986 Honda ATC200X
    2005 Yamaha Road Star 1700
    ToyHauler- 1998 Ram 3500 5.9L Turbo Diesel

  10. #25
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    Apr 2014
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    Edmond, KS
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    That would be the safest way. I'd rather pay someone who knows what they're doing than ruin my head.

  11. #26
    rodeofan5656's Avatar
    rodeofan5656 is offline Girlfriend wishes I'd last longer than 8 seconds Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    Park City, KS
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    My new Kibblewhite valve guides should be in my mailbox now. Im waiting for the call that my cylinder and piston are done. When i go pick them up, ill take the head and guides. Ive got new Shindy valves coming. Will they need the valves to do the guides? Or will they go off specs?



    1986 Honda ATC200X
    2005 Yamaha Road Star 1700
    ToyHauler- 1998 Ram 3500 5.9L Turbo Diesel

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    East of Worcester ma
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    Just curious, what was kibblewhites part# for guides? Was it 30-4069?
    I know thats the # that i keep finding and says it'll fit 83-87 honda 200x but when i dig deeper, that part# does not fit
    The fatcat or trx200sx (same as 86/87 200x) So im very curious, here's a couple pics-kibblewhites first, oem second/3rd
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Do they look different or is it just me?
    I know 99% of the time when they say fits 83-87 the parts won't work on 86/87.
    Maybe im over thinking it?
    Did the mail come yet? Do they look the same. Stem hole size? Hight off base plate?
    Last edited by Shep1970; 12-27-2016 at 09:18 PM. Reason: Add pic/ spelling

  13. #28
    rodeofan5656's Avatar
    rodeofan5656 is offline Girlfriend wishes I'd last longer than 8 seconds Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Dec 2011
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    Park City, KS
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    Theyre still in the plastic, so im not 100% sure. But from what i can tell, the only difference is the Kibbles are tapered on the cylinder side. Possibly to block less airflow where they protrude into the ports ? Yes, correct PN
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20161228_072121.jpg  



    1986 Honda ATC200X
    2005 Yamaha Road Star 1700
    ToyHauler- 1998 Ram 3500 5.9L Turbo Diesel

  14. #29
    rodeofan5656's Avatar
    rodeofan5656 is offline Girlfriend wishes I'd last longer than 8 seconds Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    Park City, KS
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    389
    Talked to a coworker in the shop that used to build race engines in western KS. He says as long as the guides are the same OD, the height of the seal end wont matter unless it interferes with the keepers/top washer



    1986 Honda ATC200X
    2005 Yamaha Road Star 1700
    ToyHauler- 1998 Ram 3500 5.9L Turbo Diesel

  15. #30
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    Aug 2016
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    East of Worcester ma
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodeofan5656 View Post
    Talked to a coworker in the shop that used to build race engines in western KS. He says as long as the guides are the same OD, the height of the seal end wont matter unless it interferes with the keepers/top washer
    Thats what worried me, the springs dont compress much but you"ll know pretty quick if they knock your keepers off.
    Do the large and small spring fit guide same as oem fit?
    I've never done guides, but i'll have to eventually get them done. I hope they work for u.
    Im more or less thinking out loud through you, hope its ok.

    Shep

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