Rebuilding 200x After 6yrs

[rodeofan5656]

Nah, its ok. We're all here to help each other! Just got the call that my cylinder is done gettin machined and my piston, seal, and gasket kits are here. When i go pick them up, ill take the head and new guides to see what they say

[rodeofan5656]

Had a real brain fart and forgot to take the head. Weve got an old oven at work we use for bearings and cam gears. Im gonna try to get them out myself, then measure them with a micrometer to make sure the OD is the same.

Im very impressed with the machine job from JSR and am excited to get the new Wiseco piston in!

[rodeofan5656]

Another update-

Heated up the head and drove out the guides with a roll pin punch. Intake slid out just fine. Exhaust took some time, and i had to throw it back in the oven cause it lost heat. I took some rough measurements of the OEM guides vs Kibblewhite with a caliper.

OEM, Kibble

Total length: 42.5mm, 42.75mm
Guide OD: 10.5mm, 10.5mm
Bottom of flange, to seal end: 14mm, 17mm
Top of flange to port end: 32mm, 29mm

From the measurements and picture, you can see they are almost the exact same length. The top will sit up alittle closer to the top spring washer, but not close enough to hit. The other end will sit closer to flush with the walls of the ports in the head (maybe to help with flow?)

The new Shindy exhaust valve fits perfect into the new guides. Intake doesnt wanna slide in, and i wont force it. I might try to install them myself with a brass punch, then let the shop reem the intake. Someone who may know more- will the fact that the ID of the guide is sitting 3mm higher on the valve stem cause any issues?

[rodeofan5656]

So i blew out the valve guide O-rings when driving in the new guides. After a long loss of motivation caused by the hiccup, im back at it. Tonight i split the case to install a new gasket and check out the guts. All gears, shafts, and bearings look good.

Luckily i found and bought a low hour head assembly on ebay with good chain guides and cam. Its off the 200 quad, but same parts.

Im wanting to paint the frame, but am fighting the swingarm bolt. It has sat for 2 months with penetrating lube, so ill try to drive it out soon.

Sorry to leave you guys hanging

[Dirtcrasher]

Just roll it through by hand with 1 spring on and check for any interference with the valve clearance set.

Not so easy to see on the 86/87 head, sometimes I have left things nice and loose before I started adjusting them many times and just tried to feel the play with my fingers.

Are both valve stems identical to stock as far as length?? They gotta be for the eccentric cam valve adjusters on that head; Or you'll have to compensate....

[rodeofan5656]

Do you mean length of valve stems due to the fact that the angle of the rocker to valve contact would change with longer valves? If not, Im not sure what youre asking. But the trx200sx head i received looks 100% like the 200x head, except the decompression lever has a thumb tab instead of a cable connection. Rocker arms arent ground by the cam like the factory ones on the X. I'll still pull the valves to grind them with some compound and inspect alittle further. The head even came with spare chain guides, oil pump, and misc hardware. Score! Especially since now i dont have to get the rockers welded and redo the guides (though i might get them done for spares)

As of now, the crankcase is back together, cylinder and new Wiseco 65.5mm 10.25:1 piston are installed. The used head also came with an oil pump drive chain with alittle less slack than the original. So im gonna run it, and hope and pray that the slack is really OK like everyone says. New DID cam chain. Went to install the clutch assembly with new Barnett set that i bought in 2011. Noticed decent grooves in the clutch basket tabs. So im gonna do some filing tomorrow, then hopefully have the clutch side almost finished tomorrow night.

Please excuse my messy workspace. My significant other decided she didnt want an engine in the dining room. So i got moved to the less spacious laundry/utility room

[barnett468]

Someone who may know more- will the fact that the ID of the guide is sitting 3mm higher on the valve stem cause any issues?

Not as long as the spring retainer does not hit it.


PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR AND THE ONLY PERSON ON 3WW WITHOUT AN EDIT BUTTON OR A STAR

[barnett468]

Heated up the head and drove out the guides with a roll pin punch. Intake slid out just fine. Exhaust took some time, and i had to throw it back in the oven cause it lost heat. Intake doesnt wanna slide in, and i wont force it. I might try to install them myself with a brass punch, then let the shop reem the intake.

1. How hot did you heat the head for installing the guides?

2. Did you put heavy oil on them before installing them?

3. How big was the hammar?


I wouldn't insert a punch into the guide. You can drive them in with a block of steel or bronze or brass and a 3 lb hammar if need be. It doesn't matter if the top of the guide guide folds over and closes up the id a little because it will reem right out with a tapered or straight reem.

Put oil inside the guide hole in the head also before installing them. You can use a q tip for this.



PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR AND THE ONLY PERSON ON 3WW WITHOUT AN EDIT BUTTON OR A STAR

[rodeofan5656]

I lubed them up with Lucas, per one of our "veteran" engine builders at work. Used a 3lb drilling and the roll pin punch. The ball end of the punch kept the punch from sliding on the end of the guide. Thus, keeping it centered and keeping it from trashing the guide holes in the aluminum head.

I heated the head up to specified temp in the manual (300deg) to drive out the guides. They were tough coming out, so i increased about 25deg before install. They went in ok, but one of them i drove so far that it split the O-ring under the flange. Couldve been due to heat. But i didnt chance running it with a bad O-ring

[rodeofan5656]

Well..... i had the clutch and oil rotor installed and torqued last night. But then i looked down and saw the timing chain tensioner guide sitting next to the head on the other side of the engine

So tonight, i pulled them back off, installed the tensioner guide, and reinstalled the clutch and rotor.

Unfortunately, the clutch has been removed just one too many times. Now the nut cant be staked into the hole in the shaft. And apparently you cant get the clutch and rotor nuts anymore. No worries, i have alot of trust in Loctite 242

I got the "alternator" side clean and assembled/torqued with a new gasket. Waiting on a seal kit from JSR in wichita, because QuadBoss must think all the oil seals are the same on 83-87 200x's and 200m 200s trikes

[rodeofan5656]

Got the correct seal kit this time, but different brand. Got all the new seals in except the clutch release shaft. I'll have to grab my roll pin punches from work for that. Being a heavy truck tech, its tough to remember all the tools i need to bring home.

So im stuck for tonight. Got the head on and torqued. Cam is installed loose. I half- timed it by finding TDC through the spark plug hole. But ill check for sure tomorrow for correct timing. So far its going smooth. The hard part comes later- finding the extra cash to spend on exhaust, rear axle setup, tires, etc.

[rodeofan5656]

Engine is done and has MUCH more compression than the worn out cylinder and OEM piston. I think im gonna like the manual compression release though.

Now on to the trike itself. Im fighting the swingarm bolt at the moment. I'll need to remove the swinger and steering assemblies so i can get the frame to powdercoat.

I'll give an update at the next milestone!