Everyone's getting side by eaches...........be part of the cool click. Neighbor got a used side by each solo........Polaris ace 570. My wife thought it may be fun. I think she was just saying that.Originally Posted by glamy
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Everyone's getting side by eaches...........be part of the cool click. Neighbor got a used side by each solo........Polaris ace 570. My wife thought it may be fun. I think she was just saying that.
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I'm shipping the left side off to a member here who needs it and it got me thinking..........if anyone needs or wants this fork tube for free just let me know.........and just pay for shipping. The otherside is already spoken for. It holds air and the moving action is fine. There is an ever so slight bend to it but it's usable and maybe someone needs one. If you just want the outer tube (slider) or what not just let me know.
Edit............for a first Gen 200X
Last edited by knappyfeet; 04-21-2017 at 01:08 AM.
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After cleaning the master of all the corrosion where the reservoir and o-ring mate up............I'm concerned with the pitting it has in said area. The corrosion acted as a dam but now that it's gone I'm wondering if fluid won't find its way out slowly and start to seep.
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Perhaps you could fill those pores with an epoxy or similar product and light sand flat?
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I've been doing a little research online about JB Weld and most say it's impervious to the effects of brake fluids........but then there's others that say brake fluid will have its way.
For the miniscule amount I would need to just fill the holes it sure couldn't hurt. I'm going to do what you recommend tomorrow.
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Just gonna post these 4 pages of the manual concerning the procedure for front fork disassembly for a member here.
I thought there was someone here with a link to service manuals on-line.........but I didn't remember.
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I bleached the master reservoir with hydrogen peroxide and sunlight. It got a little brighter. New o-ring and some work for the pitting but it should be fine.
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Wow! Another reason to buy more peroxide. We use that stuff for all kinds of crap
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It sure does seem it has a lot of uses.
Parts came in along with a shift lever. It's not IMS or stock but I like it. The other was bent. I could straighten it out "better" but for $16 it's worth it.
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With the pvc and the chopsaw out you'd think I was doing plumbing.........but just setting up some pre-load. I cut a couple inch spacers and using more buffering washers. Got it all done with new ATF. Since the wheel is still off I do not know if I hit the mark concerning the pre-load but it should good enough.
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When I more closely inspected the hub I could see where new bearings would be nice..........and at $10 for both the bearings and seals it wasn't a budget breaker.
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For as clean as the caliper and the fluid looked this was one of the hardest pistons to get out. There wasn't a lot of free movement with this assembly. After soaking overnight I had to use massive air pressure to pop it out.......sounded like a mini canon.
I've always had good luck cleaning old rusty discs but this one may be a challenge
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This is about the best I can do with the disc. I don't like blemishes. I will just consider it character.
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Everything back on 3 wheels now. The preload was perfect. The brakes have free moving action. My only gripe would be the bars are more narrow than I would like but it will do.
Next will be the fender.
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The fender has a nice crack along the top. I'm not going to attempt to make it perfect. I do not like zip tie repairs as I would rather weld it. The only problem I've found is that the amount of heat one needs for a proper "weld/repair" usually distorts and discolors tpo, pp, pe, etc type of colored plastics.
It appears a repair was attempted before and failed. Probably because a soldering iron or lower heat tool was used. So I decided to tack on a mesh for now as what I would really like is a piece of like plastic so I do not have to heat up the fender plastic as much. If I can't find any I will just proceed with mesh......with caution.........not to distort the fender that much.
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