Brandon's Tri-Z Build Thread

[NeverLift]

Don't be so sure they don't make one for the Z. I'm sure Yamaha used that basket on their motocross bikes and while they may only list it as working on the motocross bike, it is compatible. I believe that thread I linked to earlier had a list of compatible parts. You can also use online OEM parts finders to see if the same part number is used for the Z and say the 1984 YZ 250. Lastly, "ponies" means horsepower, i.e., if you clean up the ports and match them you'll get more horsepower.

Yes, 85YZ250, it490's and yz490 all used the same part# for the clutch basket. I didn't look up all the years but you should be able to find one.

[poolieZerUK]

[IMG][/IMG]

£147 Quality stuff from Talon

[brandonlowe2]

I got into my motor today and found my basket in this condition.... granted the new bottom end I am buying from Ed has a brand new basket, I still would like to avoid this from happening in the future. I am really rough on the clutch due to all the mountains we ride in up here, so anything I can do to help the longevity of the transmission is a good thing....


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[El Camexican]

Ponies?


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You're kidding right?

[El Camexican]

But El whats could you possibly mean by ponies ? ........playoffs ?......don`t talk to me about ponies .......nevermind about port matching .....what about my fancy lights ?.........playoffs......it`s tail lights ......

I'm hoping to show you some ponies in a couple weeks. Or maybe I just show you a rod like his LOL!

[brandonlowe2]

Yea.... well.... we were all rookies once right?


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[3 Wheel Drive]

Any updates on your Tri Z?

[brandonlowe2]

Here is an update of where we are today.....

Bottom End - Decided to go forward with the 1986 bottom end that was offered to me in a previous thread. Working on getting that paid for and should have it in hand by the end of February.

Top End - Top of Cylinder is 68.31mm and bottom is 68.56, so... will be boring to 69mm with new Wiseco piston. That process will be taking place in a few weeks... just in time to mate up to the bottom end when it arrives.

Lights - After much thinking and shopping and studying, I have decided to go with 1 Baja Onx6 up front. I will be putting a battery in the loop to maintain a constant current to the light. The light will be on a dimmer slide (checked with Baja and it won't hurt the light) so I can have as dim or as bright of light as I want. I am actually in the process of building my own wiring harness... its fun, and if it turns out like it should, it will be awesome. I will post more about that as progress is made. Also, the new light shroud is underway and will be very nice when finished :-)

Frame - I am currently having a friend of mine (muscle car builder) check over the frame for any imperfections and weld anything that needs fixed. He is also welding a battery tray for me (will show pictures of where it is going later) After he is done, it is headed off for powder coat. I had no idea that high grade flanged MM bolts were so hard to find.... I thought they were everywhere because my local ACE hardware has a very nice selection of grade 10 flanged metric bolts in pretty much ever size. So, I will be replacing all of my old bolts with a bolt kit that I piece together at ACE.

Suspension - Jon at Tionesata Trikes is building me a "Frankenshock" :-)

Exhaust - I am too excited about the exhaust that I don't want to spoil what I am getting.... I will just wait until it's here and post a picture :-)

[this old rz]

Lights - After much thinking and shopping and studying, I have decided to go with 1 Baja Onx6 up front. I will be putting a battery in the loop to maintain a constant current to the light. The light will be on a dimmer slide (checked with Baja and it won't hurt the light) so I can have as dim or as bright of light as I want. I am actually in the process of building my own wiring harness... its fun, and if it turns out like it should, it will be awesome. I will post more about that as progress is made. Also, the new light shroud is underway Hey Brandon...Are you making a shroud or modifying your stock unit..if you dont mind me riding your coat tails on some parts of your modifications, particularly any stator,battery & wiring tips and info you come across or can advise.
Suspension - Jon at Tionesata Trikes is building me a "Frankenshock" :-) Also can you elaborate on details of this modified shock?, features & how much does this gentleman charge.
[/QUOTE]

[brandonlowe2]

Sure thing.... let me get to my computer later (on my phone now) where it's easier to type and I will fill you in on some details


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[brandonlowe2]

Hey Brandon...Are you making a shroud or modifying your stock unit..if you dont mind me riding your coat tails on some parts of your modifications, particularly any stator,battery & wiring tips and info you come across or can advise. [/COLOR]

[/QUOTE]

I am making a 100% new shroud based on the dimensions of the stock unit. It will be made to perfectly house the new LED light. I will post pictures and full detail of it and the stator / battery / wiring harness as soon as I have something worth showing

Suspension - Jon at Tionesata Trikes is building me a "Frankenshock" :-) Also can you elaborate on details of this modified shock?, features & how much does this gentleman charge.

[/QUOTE]

For the "Frankenshock" I will be providing him my Tri-Z Shock, a Warrior Shock (which I already had anyway) and a Banshee shock. He takes parts from all three to make the new shock... the old shocks can be shot (my warrior shock was about half shot... i had been using it on my Z since my original was completely shot) ..... anyway, this is the options from Jon.... quite a few.... I have decided to go all out and do the "total" package


From Jon:

Oil change only, no seals - $35
*w/aftermarket seal head ($35-$45) - $70-$80
*w/gold valve ($145)+$25 labor- $240-$250
*w/rebound separator nut ($45) - $285-$295
*w/bladder conversion (Tri-Z Only)($135 parts & machining) - $420-430
*w/Eibach spring($100) - $520-$530

If your shock body or shaft is junk, a warrior shock will also be needed to harvest these parts from.
If you want the thumb style rebound adjustment, a Junk banshee shock is needed as well.Otherwise it is a flat head screw for rebound adjuster.

The eibach spring comes into play when setting the suspension up for the rider weight. Stock warrior and z spring are the same spring rate. If your over 160#, a different spring rate is usually required. Your shock build REQUIRES a seal head. When changing the spring rate, you'll need a gold valve kit 8 order to valve the shock to the changes. The Gold valve kit will GREATLY improve the shocks performance, as it will be valved specifically for you, and your riding style. Once you step up to the gold valve, the rebound seperator nut is the next upgrade. It Allows the compression or rebound circuits to be adjusted without any affect on the other. (Normally, cranking the rebound up, will have an affect on compression as well). After that, you have the bladder conversion. This is for someone who plans to race, or ride hard consistently for hours. It will allow cooler running of the shock, and faster response overall. If your not gonna go with a gold valve kit, you should be OK to run the stock springs on stock valving, with the spring preload cranked up a bit.

: End from Jon

[3 Wheel Drive]

I found this somewhere on the forums, not sure who made it? Mabey you may find it useful for your lights:

[brandonlowe2]

I found this somewhere on the forums, not sure who made it? Mabey you may find it useful for your lights:

Thank you for sharing that.... I had also found that and I am relying heavily on it. Basically I am "copying" my OEM harness, plus adding the additional wires and plugs needed to match that drawing and also adding the additional switches needed for the couple extra features I need, like kill switch tether, head light dimmer, and the reverse light feature on my rear light. I am going to be using Deutsch plug connectors on everything to make it easy to change things out in the future if need be.

[brandonlowe2]

Hey 3 wheel Drive.... do you still have that Z kicker (the broken one) I'd like to pick it up from you


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[brandonlowe2]

Here is a small update, and a question. Lots of stuff in the works on my build. Lots of stuff ordered and parts laying around everywhere... I will try to get some pictures soon. At this point, it looks like I am going to be doing good to have it finished in April and most likely looking at May.

My question is this.... I want some short billet brake and clutch levers.... and I also need to find a clutch side setup that has a parking brake lever on it. I can buy a Warrior clutch side for cheap and then buy the lever I want.... like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/401234268280...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

and this lever... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Short-Brake-...FEFOaw&vxp=mtr

But, what will work for me to have a matching lever on the brake side? Any chance those levers mount up to the Z master cylinder?