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Thread: Time to see what all the Tecate hype is about?

  1. #181
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Buffalo, NY
    --
    1,990
    I have allen bolts in my triples on 2 450s and I haven't had any problems with them backing out or snapping. Both of these machines have a lot of races and wrecks on them, it's not anything you need to worry about. You could file them flat where they make contact if you have the room to spare, that will help with the chipping. But all stops are metal to metal contact, you're going to get chipping no matter what if you slam them.
    Looking for a Bassani silencer for a 2nd gen tecate, the style with the movable mount. 1st gen will work

  2. #182
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Sulphur Springs,Texas
    --
    1,005
    Quote Originally Posted by Red Rider View Post
    The steering stops are 8mm bolts, so I think you'd really have to be slamming it from lock to lock to snap them off.
    Ok, I thought the steering stop were like the 85-86 250r that were machined into them already.
    • 1985 Honda 250SX
    • 1985 Honda 350X
    • 1985 Honda 350X
    • 1986 Honda 250R



    “I Love The 350x. It’s So Bad”

    My Feedback Link!

  3. #183
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV.
    --
    2,446
    A little more progress here finally. In late November, or early December (I can't remember as it's been awhile), a bunch of parts were dropped off at the polisher's (mr tecate's friend) to be polished, and we finally got most of those parts back a few weeks ago, except for the rear shock. The rear shock finally showed back up yesterday, so now we can finally start assembling this into a roller.

    The headlight mounting bracket was modified to work with the BVC tripleclamps, and will now need to be re-powdercoated. BVC's own fender mounting, adapter bracket was also modified to work properly with the BVC tripleclamps and ORI's OEM Tecate reproduction fender.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Rear Shock.jpg   Headlight & Fender Brackets.jpg  
    Red Rider's Sand Machine Updated 07/23/14

  4. #184
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Greece
    --
    58
    Very nice, can't wait to see it as a roller. I have to work on mine for 10 months now.... I really have to complete some other stuff and get it going, i NEED to ride the thing.

    Στάλθηκε από το RMX2170 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk

  5. #185
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV.
    --
    2,446
    This was our second attempt to make a roller out of all these parts, and we finally made some headway. The first attempt failed when we couldn't get the new, lower shock bushing pressed in all the way, with my vice. A friend's hydraulic press, made quick work of it though, but set us back about a week. Then, there were a few more weeks lost, when we couldn't get our schedules to sync up, to allow playtime in the garage. We made some decent progress tonight though, but it wasn't without it's struggles. I forgot how much of a hassle it is assembling a bunch of freshly powdercoated parts. Nothing fits right! Then there is my unfamiliarity with Tecates, so we were constantly having to stop, and reference the Tecate PDF shop manual & parts fiches, to reassemble the rear suspension.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Roller1.jpg   Roller2.jpg  
    Last edited by Red Rider; 02-28-2023 at 04:54 AM.
    Red Rider's Sand Machine Updated 07/23/14

  6. #186
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV.
    --
    2,446
    We knew the rear shock needed to be rebuilt, re-valved, and possibly re-sprung, but we assembled it anyway. We wanted to get a feel for how it would look, with the green spring, and whether or not we liked that look. As it turns out, we do. We had the rear shock rebuilt & re-valved by Frontline Suspension, here in Las Vegas. Ryan @ Frontline, calculated the spring rate, and assured us that re-springing it wouldn't be necessary. He said it should work awesome in the dunes, based on mr tecate's weight & the +4" swingarm. The "new" rear shock has been re-installed, and I'm happy to report, it is no longer a pogo-stick! No new pics though, as you can't see the re-valving anyway.
    Red Rider's Sand Machine Updated 07/23/14

  7. #187
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    SLC, UT
    --
    88
    That's looking really nice! Did you shorten the CRF forks at all? What did the rear spring rate come out to?

    It would be sweet to see you and your buddy at some WORCS races this fall.

  8. #188
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV.
    --
    2,446
    Quote Originally Posted by legacy51 View Post
    That's looking really nice! Did you shorten the CRF forks at all?
    Thanks. Yes, when the used forks were purchased, they were sent directly to BVC to be rebuilt/shortened.

    Quote Originally Posted by legacy51 View Post
    What did the rear spring rate come out to?
    I would have to ask mr tecate that, as he dealt with Ryan @ Frontline himself. All I know is, the Tecate's previous owner was a big guy (275-300 lbs.), and had installed a +2" swingarm, then had the rear shock re-valved & re-sprung with a heavier spring. Mr tecate is lighter than that, and now we've gone to a +4" swingarm.

    Quote Originally Posted by legacy51 View Post
    It would be sweet to see you and your buddy at some WORCS races this fall.
    Hopefully it will be finished by this fall. I wouldn't hold my breath though.
    Red Rider's Sand Machine Updated 07/23/14

  9. #189
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV.
    --
    2,446
    We've made a little more progress here over the last few months, but I've been lazy, and haven't posted it. Once again, all of the assembly is very slow with this bike, due to my unfamiliarity with it. It is a constant back and forth, between the project in the garage, and the PC in the house to reference, the PDF manuals, and occasionally, the Kawasaki parts fiches.

    All of the rear suspension, and front end have finally been greased, and torqued down to their proper torque specs, as we don't believe they need to be removed anymore. The clutch cover has been installed, the powervalve mechanism is all connected, and oil has been added to the bottom end. The new piston was installed, and the repaired/replated cylinder and head have been installed as well. Now we need a pipe.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Engine2.jpg   Engine3.jpg  
    Red Rider's Sand Machine Updated 07/23/14

  10. #190
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Greece
    --
    58
    Very nice,if I remember correctly you should have installed the rear brake pedal. With the engine in place you can't install the spring in the correct orientation. The pedal hits the clutch cover trying to do so.Sorry not trying to be smartass, only helping!

    Στάλθηκε από το RMX2170 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk

  11. #191
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV.
    --
    2,446
    Quote Originally Posted by Antreas Sp View Post
    Sorry not trying to be smartass, only helping!
    Thank you. I didn't take your suggestion any other way than you trying to be helpful. I appreciate the input. Unfortunately, we are still undecided on what we want to do with the rear brake lever, and are not ready to install it. Maybe I should make a dry run though?
    Red Rider's Sand Machine Updated 07/23/14

  12. #192
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV.
    --
    2,446
    Quote Originally Posted by Antreas Sp View Post
    With the engine in place you can't install the spring in the correct orientation. The pedal hits the clutch cover trying to do so.
    Yes, I see what you mean. Wow, what a lousy design! Yet another reason why this is all taking so long. It seems it's been 1 step forward, then 2 steps back with everything on this bike. I've got 1 more idea I'm going to try, to get the brake lever on, without pulling the engine out.
    Red Rider's Sand Machine Updated 07/23/14

  13. #193
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV.
    --
    2,446
    Quote Originally Posted by Red Rider View Post
    I've got 1 more idea I'm going to try, to get the brake lever on, without pulling the engine out.
    Success! I installed the brake lever return spring over the rear brake lever pivot, and put the spring's tab into the hole on the frame. Then, I put the rear brake lever on over the brake lever pivot. Using a hook, I made out of some stiff wire, I came in from below & behind the rear brake lever, and hooked the hook onto the spring's tab, that goes into the rear brake lever. While pulling down on the spring's tab, I slid the rear brake lever onto the pivot point, and guided the tab into the hole in the rear brake lever.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails R Brake Lever Tool.jpg  
    Last edited by Red Rider; 10-29-2023 at 05:52 PM.
    Red Rider's Sand Machine Updated 07/23/14

  14. #194
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Greece
    --
    58
    U R the best! Haha, can't wait to see the rest of the build. I've stopped mine cause ,u know, life!

    Στάλθηκε από το RMX2170 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk

  15. #195
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV.
    --
    2,446
    Quote Originally Posted by Antreas Sp View Post
    U R the best! Haha, can't wait to see the rest of the build. I've stopped mine cause ,u know, life!
    Yeah, life will unfortunately get in the way sometimes. That's another reason this project is going so slow.
    Red Rider's Sand Machine Updated 07/23/14

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