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Thread: My 1986 ATC250R Adventure

  1. #226
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    The Open Road
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    On today's episode of "The 85 and 86 ATC250R's are nearly identical"......
    Ironchop calls bullshyte.

    Here is yet another of the dozens of differences between the two years.

    The hole in this chain guard is too small for the oem bolt and corresponding mounting block that came on this frame. Nothing a drill can't fix, but at this point, if someone says 'they are the same' then give them a hefty kick in the balls and show them this thread.

    Its not a big deal drilling out a hole a little bigger on a rider but I must say that if I was doing a real restoration, I would be furious at this point from all the mislabeled used parts I have had to sift through to get the correct year item

    To all you eBay sellers......NO, it's not an "85-86" part and if you simply say "will also fit _____" then make sure you tell the shopper that they are most likely NOT the same part as the other year. The mismatched fork legs being sold as 86 that I mentioned above is the perfect example of getting screwed if you want a true resto.

    You have to do your homework if you aren't looking to cobble up a Franken-trike or else you're going to end up with some incorrect parts. In 18 yrs of lurking here, I have yet to see anyone mention all these differences, so pay close attention. I'm off to drill something. Rock on.





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    Last edited by ironchop; 05-09-2019 at 05:57 PM.

  2. #227
    Scootertrash's Avatar
    Scootertrash is offline Just Too Addicted: Protecting Our Community The day begins with 3WW
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironchop View Post
    Triple dog applauds you for this pun

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    As do I.......
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    Liberalism suspends the intellect of its victims, while at the same time tricking them into believing that they're smarter than everyone else.


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  3. #228
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    Tinkerin' about some today

    Cut a gasket for the parking brake block off plate, wipe some gasket sealer on it and tighten.

    Got the petcock installed with new oem o-ring. Tightened the tank.

    Mocked up the Kenny Roberts pipe and silencer to see if there's any fitment issues. Took a little jiggling around and some creative language and it seems to fit like a glove.

    The rear axle is back home and I am planning to send it to get yellow chromate elsewhere. The guy who was going to do it is just buried and I want yellow chromate and he doesn't do that finish so I think I'm sending it off to another member.

    Ordered some rear caliber boots I had forgot to order.

    It's getting there

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    Last edited by ironchop; 06-01-2019 at 09:13 PM.

  4. #229
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
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    Looking good brother! Almost there!
    • 1985 Honda 250SX
    • 1985 Honda 350X
    • 1985 Honda 350X
    • 1986 Honda 250R



    “I Love The 350x. It’s So Bad”

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  5. #230
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    House Springs MO
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    Looking might swell there fella. You're on the home stretch now.

  6. #231
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Las Vegas, NV.
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    Looking good iron. I'm loving that pipe.
    Red Rider's Sand Machine Updated 07/23/14

  7. #232
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
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    3,001
    Great work and effort as always, Doug! I think you may have slipped into a resto looking machine without realizing it, it sure is purdy! Wish I was jawing with you at TF but unfortunately that's not happening for me :-(
    Trikes
    1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
    1970/71 US 90 (Future Project)
    1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
    1972/73 US 90 Green
    1977 ATC 90 w/83 110 motor (Fugly)
    1982 ATC 70
    1983 ATC 70 (Ladybug)
    1973 ATC 70

    1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain

    TF 2015

    Other
    1983 Honda Z50
    1978 Honda XL75

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  8. #233
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by coolpool View Post
    Great work and effort as always, Doug! I think you may have slipped into a resto looking machine without realizing it, it sure is purdy! Wish I was jawing with you at TF but unfortunately that's not happening for me :-(
    Looking bad for me too brother. The Kobelco expansion is overdue thanks to a bunch of add-ons mid-project and it's looking like we aren't getting done before the week of 7/4....I can't be gone until it's done due to my position

    Thanks for the compliments

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  9. #234
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    Slidell, LA
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    Damn doug that thing looks great! You are getting close!
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  10. #235
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    Did some stuff.

    The rest of the hardware and software showed up in the mail so I was able to get the caliper grease out and lube up all the sliding pins and collars. Fought to get one slider thru the boots for almost 30 minutes as it kept wanting to push the boots out of their grooves.

    Rear caliper is fully assembled.

    Also I looked for OEM bottom rad shroud washer/collar everywhere and since they are discontinued and rarely pop up for sale elsewhere, I turned some new aluminum ones myself during a downtime period at work (20 minutes ....haha)

    Not much to look at, I know. I should skip to the final assembly but you know how it goes when you're waiting for parts to come in.

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  11. #236
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    I got the skid plate trimmed because it was touching the pipe and causing some interference. Mounted the skid plate and then the pipe was final fitted. I would have mounted the muffler permanently if I hadn't forgot to buy the springs for that rubber collar that seals the junction. Ordered those. Went ahead and bled the rear caliper too although it isn't mounted on the swingarm yet

    I had also forgotten that I never terminated the wiring on the TRX switch guts that I put in the ATC housing with a plug that fits my ps2fixer wiring harness.

    I had purchased the female plug housing and the male blade connectors to finish the switch pigtail long ago and put all of it in a box to figure out later and then forgot about it until yesterday

    Jets are ordered so I had better have a working engine/light switch if I plan on firing it up.

    The extra black and green wires are something I modded into the pigtail. I'm going to order plugs for these and they will be the two leads for a tether kill switch to be added later. Had to order those connectors as well, but I did as much as I could today.

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    Last edited by ironchop; 06-09-2019 at 10:29 PM.

  12. #237
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Sulphur Springs,Texas
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    I could use 2 sets of those bottom rad spacers!
    • 1985 Honda 250SX
    • 1985 Honda 350X
    • 1985 Honda 350X
    • 1986 Honda 250R



    “I Love The 350x. It’s So Bad”

    My Feedback Link!

  13. #238
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    I don't know how well these pics will look. I'm not a photographer by any stretch and my garage lighting has always been minimal.

    Went and polished the rear axle some more so my plating will look better after it's applied. I'm really thinking about shooting some clear coat over it and riding it like that for awhile



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  14. #239
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    Slidell, LA
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    Hey doug, this is strictly my opinion but I would get that plated while you have it out.
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  15. #240
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    USA
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    Yea, I've read that steel flash rusts really fast from moisture in the air, best to get it plated asap or you'll have to touch it up again.

    Looks like the connector worked out pretty well, kind of shocked the heat shrink didn't cause any problems cliping the termianal into the housing, unless you got the connectors from another supplier, I use http://cycleterminal.com for most of my needs. If I have the wire stick out the crimp just a tiny bit farther than ideal, it won't clip in the housing and I have to use a razor to cut the copper off and it clips in just fine. Looks like the soldering came out well too, you know the secrets of soldering, enough heat and flux lol.

    I know you've already figured out the pinout for the TRX vs ATC wiring, but here's a run down of function/color normally used for Honda harnesses, at least for like the 84-87 era

    Blue - Headlight Brights
    White - Headlight Dims
    Green - Engine/Frame ground
    Black/White - Engine Kill, older machines short to ground to kill, newer machines commonly work in reverse and short is run.
    Brown - Taillight power, only gets power when lights are turned on
    Yellow or Black/Brown - Power into the switches

    Black is a bit of a wild card, sometimes it's a hot wire, sometimes it's the engine kill switch wire.

    Normally the best thing to do is validate function with a multi meter and testing which switch effects which wires and compare with the target machine's wire diagram.

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